nance. Salvator never drew a more bandit-looking figure, as he stood there with his blanket and slouched hat, and a knife in his belt, tall and thin and muscular, with his sallow visage and his sad, fierce eyes. However, he showed us the marks on his door, where a band of twenty robbers had broken in one night, and robbed some travellers who were sleeping there, of a large some of money.

"Las sa

C-n asked him how the robbers treated the women when they fell into their power. ludan," said he, "and sometimes carry them off to the mountains, but rarely, and chiefly when they are afraid of their giving information against them."

At Ojo de Agua, where we changed horses, we saw the accommodations which those who travel in private coach or litera must submit to, unless they bring their own beds along with them, and a stock of provisions besides a common room like a barn, where all must herd together; and neither chair, nor table, nor food to be had. It was a solitary-looking house, standing lonely on the plain, with a few straggling sheep nibbling the brown grass in the vicinity. A fine spring of water, from which it takes its name, and Orizava, which seems to have travelled forward, and stands in bold outline against the sapphire sky, were all that we saw there worthy of notice.

We changed horses at Nopaluca, Acagete and Amosoque, all small villages, with little more than the posada, and a few poor houses, and all very dirty. The country, however, improves in cultivation and fertility, though the chief trees are the sombre pines. Still accompanied by our two escorts, which had a

very grandiloquent effect, we entered, by four o'clock, Puebla de los Angeles, the second city to Mexico, (after Guadalajara) in the Republic, where we found very fine apartments prepared for us in the inn, and where, after a short rest and a fresh toilette, we went out to see what we could of the city before it grew dusk, before it actually became what it now is, Christmas Eve!

It certainly does require some time for the eye to become accustomed to the style of building adopted in the Spanish colonies. There is something at first sight exceedingly desolate-looking in these great wooden doors, like those of immense barns, the great iron-barred windows, the ill-paved court-yards, even the flat roofs; and then the streets, where, though this is a fête-day, we see nothing but groups of peasants or of beggars- the whole gives the idea of a total absence of comfort. Yet the streets of Puebla are clean and regular, the houses large, the cathedral magnificent, and the plaza spacious and handsome.

The cathedral was shut, and is not to be opened till midnight mass, which I regret the less as we must probably return here some day.

The dress of the Poblana peasants is pretty, especially upon fête-days. A white muslin chemise, trimmed with lace round the skirt, neck and sleeves, which are plaited neatly; a petticoat shorter than the chemise, and divided in two colors, the lower part made generally of a scarlet and black stuff, a manufacture of the country, and the upper part of yellow satin, with a satin vest of some bright color, and covered with gold or silver, open in front, and turned

back. This vest may be worn or omitted, as suits the taste of the wearer. It is without sleeves but has straps; the hair plaited in two behind, and the plaits turned up, and fastened together by a diamond ring; long ear-rings, and all sorts of chains and medals, and tinkling things worn round the neck. A long, broad, colored sash, something like an officer's belt, tied behind after going twice or thrice round the waist, into which is stuck a silver cigar-case. A small colored handkerchief like a broad ribbon, crossing over the neck, is fastened in front with a brooch, the ends trimmed with silver, and going through the sash. Over all is thrown a reboso, not over the head, but thrown on like a scarf; and they wear silk stockings, or more commonly no stockings, and white satin shoes trimmed with silver.

This is on holidays. On common occasions, the dress is the same, but the materials are more common, at least the vest with silver is never worn; but the chemise is still trimmed with lace, and the shoes are satin.

Christmas Eve in Puebla! The room is filled with visiters, who have come to congratulate C―n on his arrival, and a wonderfully handsome room it is, to do it justice, with chairs and sofas of scarlet stuff. But I was anxious to see something. As we are to leave Puebla very early, I am prohibited from going to midnight mass. I proposed the theatre, where there is to be a Nacimiento, a representation in figures of various events connected with the Birth of Christ; such as the Annunciation, the Holy Family, the Arrival of the Wise Men of the East, &c.

But after some deliberation, it was agreed that this would not do; so finding that there is nothing to be done, and tired of polite conversation, I betake myself to bed.

Christmas Day.

It is now about three o'clock, but I was awakened an hour ago by the sounds of the hymns which ushered in Christmas morning; and looking from the window, saw by the faint light, bands of girls dressed in white, singing in chorus through the streets.

We have just taken chocolate, and, amidst a profusion of bows and civilities from the landlord, are preparing to set off for Mexico.

LETTER THE SIXTH.

Departure from Puebla

Chirimoyas - Rio Frio-Indian Game

-Black Forest - Valley of Mexico - Recollections of Tenochtitlan Mexican Officer Reception Scenery - Variety of Dresses Cheers - Storm of Rain - Entry to Mexico - Buenavista - House by day-light-Sights from the windowsVisits Mexican Etiquette - Countess Ca― Flowers in December - Serenade - Patriotic Hymn.

MEXICO, 26th December.

WE left Puebla between four and five in the morning, as we purposely made some delay, not wishing to reach Mexico too early, and in so doing, acted contrary to the advice of Don Miguel, who was generally right in these matters. The day was very fine when we set off, though rain was predicted. Some of the gentlemen had gone to the theatre the night before, to see the Nacimiento, and the audience had been composed entirely of Gentuza, the common people, who were drinking brandy, and smoking; so it was fortunate that we had not shown our faces there.

The country was now flat, but fertile, and had on the whole more of a European look than any we had yet passed through.

At Rio Prieto, a small village where we changed horses, I found that I had been sitting very com