LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

DRESSES.-A white tulle dress, with three jupes ornamented on each side with bouquets of roses and green foliage, intermixed with diamonds. Two bouquets similar in appearance were placed one on each side of the head in front, in the upper part of the head was fixed a diamond coronet.

A dress of white tulle, with three large plaits; the corsage draped, in the midst a bouquet of roses surrounded by violets. A garland of roses and violets ornamented the head, above which was disposed a row of diamonds; the natte of hair behind was also surrounded by diamonds.

A dress of pale blue satin, with magnificent point lace and scarf to correspond.

A robe with jupon in white tulle, very simple in the make, but decorated on each side by roses, struck in white and rose color. A berthe in silver blond was added. The coiffure was worn mostly plain, with the addition of some beautiful foliage, among which were arranged a number of diamonds.

A white lesse crape dress with jupon, with lace berthe, the sleeves fitted closely to the arms at the upper part, but hanging in large drapery below the elbow. Both the sleeve and the corsage were plentifully ornamented with diamonds. In the hair, bouquets with diamonds.

A rose colored crape dress double, a bouquet of hyacinths, retaining the plaits on the corsage, and two bouquets of similar appearance on each sleeve. The coiffure was embellished with hyacinth bouquets, and garlands of the same descended on each side, reaching dowe the face.

A pale rose colored taffity dress, glaçe white was also made with two jupons, the extremity of the outer one was ornamented with volans of point lace, the other was elevated on each side by bouquets of camellias and roses. The coiffure was most beautifully ornamented, the two nattes which enveloped the face were decorated with chains of gold which, according with the contour of the face, attached to each side, terminated behind in a cipher, retained by two camellia roses.

A white satin dress was ornamented with marabouts; the trimming on the skirt was extended round the dress, but elevated more at one end than the other. Two rivières of diamonds were introduced into the Clotilda tresses which were worn with this costume, and marabouts were also introduced behind.

A white muslin dress had the jupon attached on one side by a demi-garland of natural camellias. Bouquets of camellia flowers were worn on the head. On the back hair a little coronet consisting of foliage in diamonds was added.

A lace jupon was worn over a satin dress, rose colored. Attached to each side were demi-garlands of roses with foliage of velour meancé.

A crape dress, rose colored, had also a double jupon; the upper one was elevated on one side by a large nœud of rose colored satin. On the front of the corsage, from the upper part to the extreme point, a row of diamonds was extended.

The hair was worn in a bandeau, and on the front was traversed by a riviére of diamonds; the nattes behind were surrounded by a garland of foliage intermixed with diamonds. A delightfully harmonious effect was produced by the arrangement and embellishments of this toilette.

A white lisse crape with double skirt was decorated with chef d'argent, the exterior of skirt ornamented on each side in a similar manner. Three bands of silver in fillagree-work were attached to the head; the first traversed the forehead, the second the middle of the head, and the third surmounted the back hair. The three bandelettes were united on each side above the ear, and terminated with an acorn, which descended very low on each side.

The great latitude that the present style permits to the display of taste in all its varieties, has induced a variableness in this

branch of the female costume which rather belongs to fancy than description in numerous instances.

Some changes however of a special kind have taken place which will be particularly alluded to in their place. We shall be enabled to convey the best conception of the subject by general description, after some few notices of partial modifications. The gold buttons occasionally worn with the very elegant gros de tours dresses, contribute greatly to the improvement of the effect, particularly with the blues and purples, &c.

The disposition of the skirt forms no trifling consideration in the arrangement and distribution of our elegant modern toilettes, and their appendages. That mode by which a portion is elevated on one side, or both, displaying an interior jupe of different or sometimes the same material, is very predominent; échelles de rubans, with the addition frequently of buttons in gold or precious stones, assist in elevating and retaining the upper jupe.

To convey an adequate idea of the effect of the present style, in dresses, together with the adaptation of fabrics, and assortment of colors; it becomes necessary to sketch the entire costume, or nearly so, and with this purpose we will furnish some instances of ensemble de toilettes, which for the court, ball room, or evening party, will be found admirably adapted.

MATERIALS AND COLORS.-If any possible difference can be quoted in regard to superbness of color or costliness of material, we certainly can deduct nothing this month on account of any falling off in this particular, on the contrary, we may with propropriety say that the present fashions in all respects are surpassingly elegant and splendid, and without the monotony which a rigid observance either of special hues or special fabrics has occasionally produced.

A strong contrast thoughout occasionally occurring, (particularly in those very elegant and fantastic fancy dresses which have been so rife in some of the fashionable circles) is not often observed without the studied introduction of intermediate gra. dations of color, and the artistical adjustment of these shades and proportions properly belongs to the duties of the first-rate modiste.

The pompadour satin greatly prevails, and dresses in the brocart royal are in a high degree favorites. Of the latter a material which is known as the forêt vièrge is in great vogue. Its very beautiful patterns and assortment of colors rendering it most attractive. One of the most favorite styles is that in which the designs are executed in silver, on rose colored or blue grounds.

The gros de tours in various colors, but principally of rose or azure blue tinges for the ball room, brockés white.

Crapes for the ball, worn as well as the very beautiful tulles now fabricated are extensively worn.

Velvets of course, and in all the superb variety quoted in the most recent illustrations.

HATS, CAPS, &c.-Some of the prettiest bonnets may be seen in those of rose colored or blue crape, with long white feathers or sometimes marabouts tinted rose color. A bouquet of small tétes de plumes attached in the middle by a satin agrafe.

Velvet capotes with the crown somewhat more elevated than usually worn are adorned with flowers of the same, mingled with precious stones, which appeared in greater relief in consequence of this tasteful contrast.

The little coiffeures mauresques in gauze and résille of gold are in high estimation, and when the hair is displayed offer great facilities for disposing it to advantage.

Turbans of velvet and gauze are also worn in great variety; the fore part rather flatter than usual, with a scarf, sometimes a fringe of silver and gold mixed alternately, and an acorn to terminate it, hanging low on one side and much more elevated on the other.

The little caps called religieuses, to which we have before alluded, are frequently made entirely in blond. Two barbes commonly fall on each side of the face, a blond piece is extended

flat on the summit, and from each side a rosette of of rose colored ribbon depending with fringed ends, complete this charming head dress.

VARIETIES-The same variety of ornament in embroidery for the handkerchief, and the same amount of lace profusely decorating the border are added; devices and initials form also a part of the embellishments.

Flowers are fabricated and worn in great variety and in every varied arrangement; the bouquets, garlands, demi-garlands, agrafes, &c. may be seen on every description of costume; on the open dresses, on the tunics, the double and treble pipes, as well as attached to the head dress.

A garland of flowers called the inca is a novel and pretty thing, and likely to obtain no inconsiderable vogue.

Chaplets of roses and agrafes in marabouts and roses mixed are also very tasteful.

A sweet pretty introduction may be cited in the violet festoons which are disposed at the bottom of those elegant lace dresses which are raised and retained by the pompadour garlands. Fans are worn of the richest description, in tortoiseshell, ivory, &c., inlaid with gold, precious stones, and articles of bijouterie.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES.

PLATE 2.

FIGURE 1.-Evening dress. Satin dress, the corsage is fitted tightly to the shape. A broad berthe is added with ribbon nœuds, sleeves short, lace edges with small nœuds in satin. The skirt is ornamented with three rows of net lace, festooned at distant intervals with the material similar to the dress, made up in the foliage style. The hair ornamented with a small and delicate garland of flowers.

FIGURE 2.-Fancy dress. Velvet jacket ornamented with lace and buttons, cuffs and hat in the old style of the Jack Sheppard period, for which character, such of our fashionables as might choose to assume it for the nonce would find this travesteisement admirably adapted.

FIGURE 3.-Fancy dress.-Satin dress, double sleeves, composed, one closely fitted, and an exterior one full with bouffanted drapery. The turban ornamented with precious stones.

FIGURE 4.-Evening dress.-Gros d'Afrique dress, the corsage made low, but extending to a more elevated position by means of a berthe which is fixed to the middle of the corsage by nœuds. The ornament which extends from the ceinture is introduced in the robe style, with the petit bord which is introduced with this head dress, a couple of feathers are seen, one placed lower than the other.

The hat and bonnet all in velvet, with feather ornaments. Cap similarly decorated.

PLATE 1.

FIGURE 1.-Evening dress.-Gros de tour dress, the corsage demi-montant, and having on the upper portion two parellel ornaments with coques in the middle of satin ribbon, the corsage in the stomacher style with long point. The sleeves short, with ribbon puffings placed at the extremity and also in the upper part. The skirt is embellished with a similar ornament to that which is added to the corsage, it extends partly round the cir. cumference of the dress, and partly rises upwards towards the ceinture at regular intervals. The coiffure is ornamented with feathers.

FIGURE 2-Evening dress.-Crape dress.-The corsage is made equally elevated with the precedingly described one, and draped in the upper part until a frilling is introduced which extends entirely round. The sleeve is short and frilled. The skirt is made full and double. The ornaments of marabouts linked with satin ribbon. Head dress with feathers.

FIGURE 3.-Ball dress.-Marcelline dress. The draping of the corsage which is en pointe and close fitting, are confined to to the upper portion, and are retained by bands in an upright position at regular intervals. Volans of lace, very deep and full are introduced on the skirt in front, in three rows which together form the similitude of a tablier, they have also a lace border. The sleeve is short and laid in small undulations which extend round in three rows. The hair is ornamented with flowers and a Ceres garland.

FIGURE 4.-Evening dress.-Pompadour Satin dress.Double jupe. A double berthé is attached to the upper part of the corsage, which is cut and ornamented in the stomacher style, having nœuds extending down the middle. The sleeve is short and closely fitted to the arm; the outer jupe is elevated in several places at irregular heights by bouquets, displaying the underneath dress elegantly embroidered. A wreath of flowers with precious stones set in gold is placed on the head.

The first half-figure is in levantine with buttons down the front and arms. Silk drawn bonnet.

The second half-figure of gros de tours has the sleeve which is close, ornamented with bouffons and nœuds. The bonnet is ornamented with lace edging.

The bonnets are in satin with feather and ribbon ornaments. Tulle caps with flowers and small satin nœuds.

A turban with fringed end and pearl beaded border, is composed of Lama tissue.

PLATE 3.

FIGURE 1.-Promenade dress.-Satin Royal. The corsage terminates in the upper part with a frilling, draped in a perpendicular folds, graduating to a peak ending at the ceinture; Telescope sleeves being made so as to appear to fold one part within the other. The skirt rather full with revers extending downward from the ceinture in the tablier form. Poult de soie bonnet with feathers.

FIGURE 2.- Ball dress.-Madeline tissue. The corsage pointed with buttons down the front, berthé in old point lace, short sleeves tight with lace of same description similarly introduced. The skirt is fashioned in the robe style with bouillon ornaments, with lace border and rosettes in the intervals, a satin slip is displayed between and in the waist a similar ornament.

Velvet cap with net lace border and satin ribbon ornaments. FIGURE 3.-Poult de soie dress. Draping on the upper part of the corsage; sleeves short and in the epaulette style. The skirt with the upper portion of ornamented with satin ribbons; the outer one in elegant folds and nœuds with tassels. The hair ornamented in a similar manner.

FIGURE 4.-Levantine Pelisse. Tight in the corsage and sleeves which extend to the wrist, ornamented with a frilling in front and down the skirt, in the latter assuming the tablier form.

PLATE 4.

FIGURE 1, & HALF-FIGURE.-Evening dress. Organdi dress short sleeves, close; pointed corsage; redingote style of skirt with satin edging; turned back, with rosettes. Velvet dress hat with drooping feathers.

FIGURE 2.-Ball dress.-Satin dress, corsage en pointe, short close sleeve, lace stomacher. The skirt decorated in a corresponding manner, the ends of the lace ornaments having neeuds attached.

FIGURE 3, & HALF-FIGURE.-Ball dress.-Persane dress, short sleeves, which as well as the skirt are ornamented with roses as well as the inner jupe.

The bonnets in velvet. The caps are ornamented with lace and ribbons.