paying their obeisances to her Majesty and her Royal Consort, filed off, as we see troops do, by battalions and companies, each group or quadrille being headed by their leaders. As the noble cortège filed off, each bright phalanx formed separately at the end of the Reception Room; and when the whole procession had perambulated the Presence Chamber, then the quadrilles bean. First, as to the rank of its leader, that of the Duchess of Cambridge kept time to the gay measure of the music. Many of the quadrilles having characteristic music as well as costumes, they danced one by one in succession. The quadrilles having been once danced under her Majesty's eye, her Majesty dropped her minever mantle, and joined in the quadrille with her own group. After which occurred the grand medley, in which all ages, all countries, were mixed. Such a scene may never again occur till doomsday. It was calculated to infuse a spirit and joyousness into the recreations of the night, such as no pageant, however gorgeous, no costumes, however brilliant, could produce alone. Amidst the surges of the mixed flood of nations and ages, which this festivity rolled back upon us, some costumes still shone as stars of the first magnitude amidst their lesser colleagues in the firmament. There were noblemen and noble ladies who wore diamonds and precious ornaments to the amount of many thousands, a dangerous experiment in a crowd; the late Prince Nicholas Esterhazy, when Ambassador Extraordinary, dropped two thousand pounds' worth of diamonds at the Coronation. The costume of one of the characters, that of the Earl of Chesterfield, cost 8001. Lord Pembroke borrowed for the night ten thousand pounds' worth of diamonds from Storr and Mortimer, at one per cent. The commonest dresses for this one night have cost from 401. to 50%, and we have seen a plain, although highly becoming costume, which cost 2001. Thus, many a gay mummer, like his ancestors of old, will "Wear a farm in shoe-strings edged with gold, And spangled garters worth a copy hold; A beaver hat and feather for the head, The dress of her Majesty, as Queen Phillippa, having been finally completed, no less than 250 carriages of the élite of the aristocracy and beau monde, anxious to view the Sovereign's costume, were assembled in Hanover-square. Even deprived of its jewels, which on the evening of the bal masque threw on its tissue an effulgence of light, the regal robes were picturesque beyond the most sanguine expectation. The open hanging sleeves of brightest velvet lined with minever, the surcoat, with its grey silver ground, looking like a corslet, enriched with the loveliest flowers of gold, were part of the costume. The dress is transcendent in the brilliancy of that contrast which it is the great and difficult object of a costume-maker to produce. Surrounded by an immense bevy of the most lovely, accomplished, and virtuous ladies of the land, her Majesty's position reminded many a noble literateur of the beautiful description of Ben Johnson in bis masque of the "Queen of the Ocean, how that she alone Possest all virtues, for which, one by one, Her Majesty's display of jewels was of immense value. From the upper part of the robe was suspended a description of pendant stomacher of the intrinsic worth of 60,000. DRESSES OF HER MAJESTY AND HER LADIES IN ATTENDANCE. Over a skirt, with a demi-train of ponceau velvet, edged with fur, her Majesty wore a surcoat of brocade, blue and gold. The centre and the edges likewise lined with minever. This fur distinctive of the highest social station in the middle ages, when the costume of high and low, of age and youth, were not confounded her Majesty alone wore at the ball. From the upper edge of the centre of the minever stomacher there was a band descending of jewels laid on gold tissue, and the other parts of the dress, the armlets, &c., were likewise studded with precious gems. Over this was affixed an ample mantle of splendid brocade, gold and silver, with flowers of silver mattes and brilliants, over a gold ground-a marvellous tissue, made, as well as the blue and gold brocade, by the ingenuity of our own Spitalfields' weavers. This mantle was lined with minever. Her Majesty's hair, folded inward à la Clovis, was surmounted by a light crown of graven gold. THE MISTRESS OF THE ROBES.- Her Majesty was attended by the Duchess of Buccleuch, Mistress of the Robes, who, as leader of the Highland Quadrille, wore one of the richest of her characteristic national costumes. THE BEDCHAMBER WOMEN.-The Hon. Mrs. Anson and Mrs. Brand wore dresses of charming effect of the period chosen by her Majesty, bearing the quarterings of the ancient arms of England, with lions and fleur de lis. LADIES IN WAITING.-Lady Jocelyn and Lady Portman wore dresses of the same form as her Majesty's, with a surcoat but without minever and other distinctive accompaniments. THE MAIDS of HONOUR, Miss Liddell, Miss Paget, Miss Devereux, Miss Stanley, appeared in dresses and surcoats, trimmed with gold and silver. Lady Rosslyn exhibited a dress copied from the picture of the famous Countess of Salisbury, whose garter Edward III. turned into a trophy-origin of the highest order of chivalry now in existence, and which Kings, Princes, and Nobles of the highest degree bear as a remembrance of the most romantic of all past ages. To describe the effect of these dresses as gorgeous, would be but half to express the admiration they elicited. The design and execution of her Majesty's costume were intrusted to the genius and skill of Vonillon and Laure. The former, who, we hear, is an amateur of the pictorial art, had amassed experience under Sir Thomas Lawrence in the famous bal costumé of the Marchioness of Londonderry, and with the assistance of his expert and tasteful sister, Madame Laure, we are told that he succeeded marvellously in embodying the noble devices of her Majesty upon this occasion. We must now describe the magnificent dress worn by his Royal Highness Prince Albert, in the character of Edward III., and, considering the impersonation selected by his royal consort, we cannot but admire the pure taste that dictated the adoption in this instance. The cloak (which as well as every other externa] part of the attire of his Royal Highness, and of her Majesty, was manufactured in Spitalfields) was composed of the richest scarlet velvet, lined throughout with ermine of the first quality. Round the entire extremity ran a splendid gold lace, three inches in width, bearing upon it a raised pattern of oak leaves and acorns, This lace was edged top and bottom with two rows of pearls of an unusual size, amounting in number to no less than 1200. The cloak was cut to fix itself in such a manner as to hang pendant fully from each shoulder without any fastenings. His Royal Highness connected the two sides of the cloak across the breast with a band composed of, and most gorgeously studded with, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, topazes, and almost every other description of precious stones. Underneath this cloak his Royal Highness wore a full robe, reaching from the throat to the feet, constructed of a material which, in its manufacture, cost fifteen guineas per yard. It is a brocade, of which the component parts are gold, and blue satin and silk. The splendour of the effect of this robe was greatly enhanced, by being slashed with royal blue velvet, the slashing being fully studded, like the connecting band of the cloak, with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, &c. The collar of this robe was arranged, with respect to the brilliancy of its jewels, so as to match the band of the cloak. LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS. DRESSES.-There has been no change of very marked importance since the novelties noted or illustrated in our last; the alterations have been those principally, which the peculiar taste of each modeste will suggest as modifications of existing styles. The pointed corsages with some alterations, are retained. A mode is adopted which exhibits the point in design, but substitutes a blunt termination, with or without a tassel. The forms of evening costume remain very much in the same make and general style. The width as well as length of skirt is retained in as marked a manner as ever, and is by no means even in appearance reduced, in consequence of the trimmings generally adapted. Open dresses retain all their vogue; those of Taffetas or Poult de scie over differently colored skirts, are much admired. Some dresses have no trimming on the under jupons; others are embroidered with braiding of the same colour, or turned back with sides of lace, these are mostly open from the point of the corsage A volan of the same material as the dress, with an embroidered pendant of silk material is also seen, and is a favorite application. Some corsages open very much on the bosom; this is indeed a favorite style, and with a pelerine, a lace berthe or a pelerincardinal. As a few specimens of taste in costume and conformity to the reigning modes, the following are subjoined. A jupon of white tulle illusion over white gros Afrique, was made tight-fitting in the inner sleeve, loose and flowing in the exterior; it was trimmed with garlands of white roses. A pink figured gauze with ornaments, bouillonné of tulle and satin alternated with the addition of borderings of rich blond lace. A rich blond lace jupon over satin slip of the same color as the corsage. A very elegant dress had a tablier of plain organdy let in the form of a broken cone, and gauged at regular distances. The corsage was decorated in a similar manner, but it was reversed; the sides both on the corsage and tablier were finished with lace set on with very little fulness. Long sleeve of plain organdy gauged to correspond with the front of the dress, and surmounted by a hanging mancheron of the sprigged material, nearly but not quite tight, and edged with lace; a manchette to correspond finishes the under sleeve, and falls over the hand; these manchettes are much more in vogue than the tight turned up cuff, though that is still occasionally adopted under the name of manchette puritaine. Two dresses of two ladies of high standing in the fashionable circles, and at present figuring at Paris are thus described, a robe of white crêpe lisse over poult de soie, a double shirt, the upper one a tunic opening at the side, but the one side square, and the other rounded at the corner; the corsage, cut very low and square at the top, was draped in the Tyrolese style, the drapery ornamented in the centre of the bosom by a bouquet of myosotis ; they were of gold enamelled in the colours of the flowers with a foliage of emeralds. The short sleeve, and truly it might be called the shortest of sleeves, was looped by a small tuft of flowers to correspond. The tunic was cut down the sides and round the border in very large scollops; they were festooned in green silk, and a tuft of myosotis embroidered in coloured silks in the centre of each. The under dress had no trimming, it was made with a demi-train. Hair disposed in full ringlets at the sides, and arranged in a round knot, raised rather high at the back of the head; a white ostrich feather of great length and beauty, shaded in the colours of the flowers, was attached by a string of emeralds on one side of the head, and drooped very low on the other. A robe of the finest and clearest organdy, over pale blue gros de Naples, the corsage low, plain at the top, but drawn full at the bottom of the waist, descended a little in the centre of the bosom, and was trimmed with a berthe of point d'Angleterre. Shirt, tight sleeve finished with lace, á l enfant. The skirt was beautifully embroidered on each side, leaving the centre plain, but it was ornamented, as was also the point of the corsage, and that of the berthe with small choux of blue riband; the embroidery and choux descended a little below the knee, the lower part of skirt being ornamented with a volan of point d'Angleterre of great depth and beauty. Rich golden tresses disposed in soft bands at the sides, and gathered up behind in a round knot, from which a few ringlets strayed over the back of the throat; they were ornamented only with a guirlande of blue-bells. BONNETS, CAPS, &c.-Among the numerous introductions which have appeared within the most recent period, it is difficult particularly to specify those which may be said to have obtained especial predominance; the brims are brought, in some instances, still lower, and assume their shape more suddenly; they are frequently turned up, not only at the curtain, but the lower part of the front; still close to the upper part of the head is the leading form, though much more open specimens are frequently seen. Those of gauze and organdi now make their appearance frequently; the brims entirely disposed in bouillons, is a favourite make. The new material of straw and lace, alternately, is very light and pretty. Those coquettish little capotes, which are quite shallow in the crown and long at the sides, have but very slight ornaments, a plain gauze ribbon, or narrow coque, a small flower, or marabout, is all that is required, or that becomes them. THE SPITALFIELDS BALL.-This magnificent and charitable fête came off on Thursday evening at her Majesty's Theatre. The whole of the interior was metamorphosed into a splendid saloon for the occasion; a substantial flooring being thrown over the pit, which was thus brought to a level with the stage. In the midst of the latter was the orchestra, constructed upon the same principle as that at the promenade concerts at the various theatres. All the machinery and flies were of course removed from the stage, which by the aid of drapery, assumed the appearance of a spacious tent, supported by Corinthian pillars, fluted with gold. In the back, against the wall, was a group of polished armour and stands of colours, brought from the Tower on purpose. At the other end of the house, that is facing the stage, was the Royal box, constructed in the form of a Corinthian portico, with fluted gold pillars, and a handsome entableture surmounted by the royal arms. The front was festooned with scarlet damask, and the inside with rich scarlet velvet, supplied by the Lord Chamberlain. The royal box was spacious enough to admit of a great number of seats, all covered with scarlet cloth. The whole was brilliantly lighted by several gas chandeliers, in addition to the splendid glass chandelier used for the general purposes of the theatre, and the coup d'œil when lit up was most striking and beautiful. DOMESTIC DICTIONARY AND HOUSEKEEP. ERS' MANUAL,-BY GIBBONS MERLE AND JOHN REITCH, M.D. Strange: London. This publication, from the novelty of its arrangement, extent of information, and clearness of description, is taking the lead among works of a similar character, even though under the aus pices of the leviathan publishers; it is quite an epitome of the mass of information, which could only have been obtained by consulting voluminous sources. The practical nature of its contents too, renders it additionably valuable. The heads of families, aud others, requiring instruction relating to any kind of domestic details, will esteem this united undertaking as a complete vade тесит. DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. PLATE 1. FIGURE 1.-Out door dress.-Muslin dress. Made in the redingote style, frilled from the upper part down the whole extent, and double through the extent of the skirt. The sleeve is but slightly ornamented and fits the arm, to which it is made close and has a frilling at the termination. Crape bonnet with feathers. FIGURE 2.- Walking dress.-Palmerine dress. The corsage is made en pointe, and bands are placed in oblique lines to the ceinture; an embellishment which runs down the dress is composed of passementerie. The sleeves are tight and have similar ornaments extending some little way down from the shoulder. The addition of a lace mantelet decorated with rosettes of ribbon and ends imparts a finish to this costume, which gives it a great air of elegance. The bonnet is in rice straw with ribbon nœuds. FIGURE 3.-Carriage dress.-Palatine dress. The corsage and sleeves close fitting and plain, with the exception of two rather broad bands in draping, running in a nearly upright direction to the cienture; the skirt is without ornament of any kind. A lace mantelet with frilled edgings of the same, descending much lower than that previously described is added; it also possesses rosettes of ribbon and apertures for the arms. The tulle bonnet has a lace barbe and bouquet with the addition, also of a nœud in ribbons at the back. FIGURE 4.-Promenade dress.-Organdi dress. The corsage en crêves, and peaked, the sleeves in the same style and besides taid in bouillons. The skirt has several bands extending more than half way to the waist, and which serves as flounces. The bonnet in tulle has a bouquet placed in the upper part. The first half figure in foulard has a gimp embroidery in front, the sleeve close in the upper part, terminating a little below the elbow, whence springs another of muslin descending to the wrist. The second half figure is of poult de soie and for evening dress. The bonnets are in straw and satin, having bouquets inside the brim and feathers principally on the exterior, lace caps with bouquets and ribbon bows. PLATE 2. FIGURE 1.-Promenade dress.-Satin dress made in the redingote style. A small cape extends over the shoulders, being cut down in the centre of the corsage which is very much pointed at the ceinture; sleeves tight with ornaments in the upper part, similar to those on the cape. The skirt is open and turned back in front with a frilled edging and similar gimp ornaments, and display a jupon of the same description of material. Marceline bonnet, feather ornaments. FIGURE 2-Promenade dress.-Tarlatane dress. Corsage open in front, exhibiting a habit shirt edged with lace and frilled, pelerine ornament descending to the ceinture. The sleeve closely made in alternate gathers and bands extending to the wrist. The bonnet of satin with drooping willow feathers. FIGURE 3.-Promenade dress.-Organdi dress. The corsage closely made and without ornament and flat at the lower extremity, with a cape and collar of the same material as the dress, profusely embroidered and united with rosette ties. The sleeves close fitting and plain. The skirt is embellished with a satin ornament extending in two rows down the front with rosettes at intervals. The Bonnet in satin, ornamented with lace lappets. FIGURE 4.-Walking dress. Gros d'Afrique dress. The corsage and sleeves made to fit tightly, an ornament is added to the former, being let in and descending in a V form to the ceinture; a similar decoration is added to the skirt which as sumes the tablier form. A lace cape having a continuous series of volans is added, thereby giving an elegant finish to the dress. Rice straw capote, peaked at the corners with ribbon nœuds. The first half figure is in satin, and has a tight fitting corsage, very elegantly shaped both in the upper and lower part, sleeve of the same material and muslin, The second half figure is in Mousseline de laine, tight sleeves, corsage, and with ornaments, bouillonnés Tulle and crape bonnets as well as chip, feathers and ribbons are added. Muslin cap with ribbon twisted and piqué. PLATE 3. FIGURE 1.-Promenade dress.-Pekin dress. The corsage ornamented in the pelerine style, passementerie embellishment and peaked in front at the ceinture; the sleeves tight, and ornamented in a corresponding manner at the upper part; the skirt has four rows of ornaments of a similar description. The tulle bonnet, having feathers. FIGURE 2.-Walking dress.-Poult de soie dress. The corsage moderately high, and open in the upper part of the centre of the corsage, a square collar and edging is added; the greater part of the front of the corsage bouillonné; the upper part of the sleeve bouffanted, the rest full; two rows of ornaments, bouillonnés, with an edging, are added to the skirt. Straw capote, with bouquet. FIGURE 3.-Walking dress.-Chiné dress. The corsage and close sleeves made with perfect plainness; several volans added to the skirt; the elaborately embroidered mantelet of lace, with small square collar, impart a high degree of finish to this toilette. The bonnet of tulle and lace, with satin ribbon nœuds. FIGURE 4-Carriage dress.-Chusan dress. This costume is characterised with perfect plainess in the make of skirt, sleeves which are tight, and corsage; its character is due to this particular, absence of all decoration, and needs excellent fitting to shew it off to advantage; Satin mantelet, gathered in front, and bordered with a frilling of the same. Lace bonnet, with drooping feather. The Bonnets of tulle, moire, and crape; the ornaments as well as shapes, characterised by extreme neatness, combined with elegance, being ribbons and feathers sparingly used. Caps of blond and lace, with barbes, and small delicate bouquets, Satin Petit bords, with lace edging and small cocque. PLATE 4. FIGURE 1.-Promenade dress.—Dress of Taffetas glaçe. The corsage fitting tightly to the shape, and terminating in a point, with the addition of a pelerine with a ruched border. The sleeves tight, and quite plain; the skirt full, and decorated in front with ruche ornaments, having nœuds and ends in the centre. Capote in Gros de Naples, with ruched border and bouquet. FIGURE 2.-Carriage dress.-The upper part of the corsage embellished with a lace berthé, having gimp ornaments down the centre, as well as in the several rows along the upper part of the sleeves, which are close fitting; the skirt has similar ornaments with loops and tassels, as in the upper portion. The bonnet has both bouquet ornaments and ribbons, the latter arranged as nœuds, FIGURE 3.-Walking dress.-Piqué dress. The corsage having a cannezou, in addition to the upper part, and a double cape, with narrow vandyked edging, reaching about midway to the point of the ceinture; an ornament is attached to the skirt of the same make on the exterior, the centre of which is bouillonné; the sleeves, which are closely fitted to the arm, are yet gathered in crêves throughout their whole extent. Crape capote with feathers. Bonnets of tulle, crape, and gros de Tour, garlands and ornaments of the same material prevail. The Caps and Petit bords are in muslin, tulle, and lace, ribbons in bands, nœuds, and bows, constitute the principal decorations, which are generally light and small. |