30 SOUR THE ANCIENT TYRE. tree has interwoven itself in so curious a manner as to have become part of it; embracing some of the largest stones, and being itself encradled in the mass.* Having been formed for the supply of Tyre, the aqueduct keeps a straight line across the sand toward Sour, which it is most reasonable to suppose occupies the site of some portion of the ancient town. Travellers of different ages have hazarded various conjectures to the contrary, founded, as it appears, rather upon the basis of their own imaginations, than the sound warranty of the earliest history, which continually represents Tyre to have been an island. * The stag's head imbedded in the trunk of a tree, which is preserved among the curiosities of the Belvedere at Vienna, is a very remarkable instance of the manner in which a tree will close over a substance which is no part of itself. WORK OF ALEXANDER. 31 CHAPTER XIX. Work of Alexander.-Insecure Port. Return toward Saffat. Pitch the Tent near Haroun.-Visit from the Sheikh.- Reach Saffat early in the morning. - Second Visit to the Moosellim. - Third Visit, and stormy altercation with him.-Cause of his dislike to the English.Take up abode in the house of a Book-binder.-Jewish Sects.-Village of Mirûn.-Curious difference of Discipline.-Abou Sookn.-Leave the Town. May 11. IN examining the peninsula of Sour, it would be very difficult to fix the exact point where the work of Alexander has commenced on the main land; so entirely has the accumulation of sand effaced all traces of human labour, that there is not even a difference in the level, by which it can be distinguished from the surrounding shore. Near the water, however, his work is apparent; for the sea, in the lapse of ages, has washed away the bank, and thus the substructions have been left exposed, consisting of granite and marble columns of different sizes, 32 WORK OF ALEXANDER. laid in rows, supporting and intermixed with unworked blocks of similar material, together with pieces of cornice and capitals indiscriminately massed in the same embankment. This is most conspicuous on the south side, where the bank is higher than on the other: nevertheless, the foundation of prostrate columns is also visible on the northern shore. It may be presumed, that where these substructions cease, the island commenced; and taking these two points for a boundary on the land side, the present circumference of the remaining part of the peninsula is about two miles. I cannot, however, pretend to accurate knowledge upon this point, since I did not walk round it, and the intervention of ravines and inequalities in ground cause so much deception, that without actual survey no one can judge with certainty of any given tract of land; more particularly in an eastern climate, where the clearness of the atmosphere brings objects so much nearer to the eye than they actually are. It may be easily believed that the island formerly had a circumference of three miles, or even more; for the ravages of the sea upon it are made ap parent on the south side by a row of prostrate R PORT AND TOWN OF SOUR. 33 columns, fifteen in number, which formerly lay under the Alexandrine embankment, but which are now exposed; while the sea flows over them, and even some distance beyond them. Tyre is said formerly to have had two secure and commodious harbours. The port in these days is one of the most insecure and dangerous to enter upon the whole coast; which can only be accounted for by supposing that the two reefs, which run north and south from the western points of the peninsula, the greater part of which are now below water, were formerly visible, and built upon; so that their position being definitely marked, the passage would be easy, and shelter afforded to vessels anchoring behind them. It is behind these reefs that the present harbours exist; that on the north side being safest and most used. The town of Sour is small and dirty, and its bazaars of the same quality. Having spent a few hours in surveying it, and its vicinity, I returned to the mules, which had been left near the little stream beyond the plain; and retracing our steps towards Saffat, we pitched soon after sunset near Haroun. The Sheikh made VOL. II. Ꭰ 34 VISIT FROM THE SHEIKH. me a visit, and brought a bowl of milk and some wood, regretting that he could not supply bread, for the village did not afford it. I was much pleased with this man, and sincerely pitied his condition. Supposing me to be an impiegato of the Pacha, he spoke much in praise of Ibrahim; said that he was a good man, and hoped he would not be hard upon the people; and added, that he had not yet levied money upon the village. The Sheikh was seated near the fire with one attendant, and while we were talking, a voice was heard, as of a crier giving some public notice in the village, when I inquired what this might mean. "Oh," said the Sheikh, "that is an order for the villagers to carry trees to-morrow to Acre." The Pacha had directed plantations to be made in the neighbourhood of Acre, and every village was compelled to contribute olive and cherry trees, sixty of each sort every day, for ten days. "This," said the Sheikh, “ is rather hard; for all our horses and mules are taken, and we are obliged to carry the burdens upon our shoulders; Acre being six hours across the mountains." This Arab had a manly, handsome person; and the modesty of his address, 66 |