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and Pharpar. Xan Assad Pacha
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Description of.—
Water of Damascus.-Café near the Gate of Peace - Its
wretched construction.-Remark of Turkish Guard.-Fruit-
garden resorted to by Christians. Festa.
Arabic and
Gate of
Saracenic Inscriptions. Gate of the Tombs.
Sakleh.-Window of St. Paul. Boræa the resort of all
orders.
Page 57
CHAPTER XXII.
Ahmet Bey.-Mr. Farren's Defence of a Greek.-Pacha's
influence.-Rebellion against Mohammed Selim.- Dervish
in a panther's skin.-Parliament of Damascus. -Beautiful
Jewess.-Presented in some Christian Hareems by Padre
Manoel. Women of Damascus. -Sleeping Beauty.- In-
troduced to a Christian House by Mr. C. Farren.-Girls of
great beauty.-Turkish Hareem.- Mode of Salutation in
Damascus. No Damask now manufactured. Aromatic
Waters.-House of Naaman the Syrian-now an Hospital
for Lepers.-House of Ananias.
70
CHAPTER XXIII.
Departure from Scham.-Salhiah.-View of the City from
the side of Anti-Lebanon. - Traverse the Banks of the
Barrada. Pitch the Tent under a Precipice. . Halt in
the morning near Anhoo. Ascend Anti-Lebanon again.
-Plain of Bocat. Yellow Rose. ·Balbec Notice of.-
Its Antiquity questioned. Immense Stones in the Wall.
-Money claimed by the Arabs. Column in the Plain of
Bocat.-Deer el Ahmar. Metawallies.- Trees on side
of Lebanon.-Bivouac near Snow.-Lake Limone.
86
Hardness of Snow.-Scilla Italica. First view of Cedars.
-Danger of losing Mules in Snow. - Maronite Village of
Schirrey.-Village Church.-Handsome persons of Villagers.
-Ear-rings. Tantoura, the exalted Horn of Scripture.-
Wine.-Mulberries. "Fountain of Gardens."-" Mountain
of Leopards."-Tomb of Joshua. Tripoli. - Moosellim.
-Turkish Tombs.-Cows slaughtered.-Marina of Tripoli.
-Departure for Latikía.-Entomologist.-Serpent Foun-
tain. Ruad.-Tartoose.-Ismeyley Druses. Page 101
CHAPTER XXV.
Guides lose their way.-Nahr Hussein.-Dilatoriness of
Guides-Leave them.-Sophia.-Baneas, the Balanea of
Strabo. Robbers reported. Sponge-fishers. Gebeleh,
famous for its tobacco.-Greek Theatre.-Mosque.-Sup-
per from the Sheikh His partiality for the English.
Leave before daylight. —Lose the way. Return for a
Guide.-Gazelles.-Wolf in myrtle coppice.-Lady pilgrims.
-British Consul at Latikía.-Antiquities.-Consul's Family.
-Entertainment. Head-dresses of the Daughters.
118
CHAPTER XXVI.
Ladies
Leave Latikia for Antioch.-Picturesque Scenery.—Ibra-
him's Road. Muleteers refractory.— Damascus.
packed in crates.-Valley of Orontes.-Gardens. — Rich
Meadows. George Dib-His hospitality. Habit of sop-
ping Bread.-Antioch the Queen of the East.-Antiquities.
-Lucius Verus. Daphne. Germanicus.-Gems washed
bare by heavy rains.
132
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXVII.
ix
Leave Antioch.-Pliny.-Lake.-Beilan.-Battle of Scan-
deroon. Issicus Sinus.-Malaria.-Jebbek.-Mount Ama-
nus.-Pylæ Syriæ. — Carsus. Paias. -Four Travellers
murdered. -Mustuk Bey. Interview.-Detained seven
hours for horses.-Sheikh. -Wife deaf.- Squirt.-Darius
defeated by Alexander.-Scene of the murder.- Gurgula.
-Fracas with the women avoided.--Large Xan.—Flies.—
Bellerophon.-Pegasus.- River Xihoon. -Missis.--Sheikh.
- Aleian Plain. Troops marching from Adana. — River
Sihoon.-Camp.-Guides gallop away.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Page 144
Scarcity of Bread, Meat, and Fuel.-Abbas Pacha and
Caramanian Dogs.- European Instructors. - Bazaars of
Adana. Stepping-stones.-Discipline of Soldiers. — Dine
with European Instructors - Their habits-Sufferings in
the late Campaign.-Presented to little Ibrahim Pacha-
Contrasted with Ibrahim his Uncle.-Character of Egyptian
Troops. Detachments from Konieh. Horses offered to
Eregli and refused.-Leave Adana for Tarsus with Hakkim
Bashi.-Egyptian Cavalry on the banks of the Cydnus.-
Fall.-Alexander's Bath there. Fragment of Aqueducts.
-Visit to the French Consul-Refuses to change Bills.—
Austrian Consul-His Advice-His Wife-His Dinner.-
Return to Baggage.-Fortunate meeting with an Instructor
of Cavalry.
164
-Game at Chess.-Dongdash.-Russians advancing.- Su-
X
periority of Egyptian Cavalry.-House of St. Paul.-Leave
Cilician Coast.-Isle of Cyprus.-Want of Water.-Delay
of Captain. Land at Tripoli. Apricots.-Headland of
Peniel. Sleep under Olive-trees. Timseid. - Botrys.
Gibili.-Adonis.-River Lycus.-Inscriptions on Rocks in
Ammunean characters.-Antonine Inscription.- Mr. Le-
vinge.-Quicksand.-Maniac.-St. George and Dragon.-
Reach Beirout.
184
CHAPTER XXX.
Mr. Abbot.-Unpleasant Sensations at the prospect of
sleeping in a House.-Malaria-Its peculiarities.-Sagacity
of Locandiere.-Visit from Mr. Stevens.-Leave Beirout.
-Sailors fall asleep.-Latikía.-Shoogle.—Bathe in Orontes.
-Practice of the Arabs during Harvest.-Modesty of the
Women.-Locusts.-Ridge of Belus.-Great Plain.-Ga-
zelles. Tumuli-The same observed in other Countries-
One opened in Nubia.-Suspected Robbers.
CHAPTER XXXI.
202
Situation of Aleppo. Pistachio Grove. - Gardens.
House-tops. Signior Picciotti.-Character of the Tartar
Ali.-Contract for Journey to Stamboul.-Difficulties ex-
aggerated. Influence of the Moon.-Aleppo Button.-Ulce-
rations. Conversazione near the River Xoik.- Levantine
Girl. Take a Turkish Tutor-His caution.-Depreciation
of Turkish Money.-Convent of Cats.- Mohammed's Fa-
vourite.-Green Turban Men.-Dinner-party. 221
CHAPTER XXXII.
Leave Aleppo. Tartar's Dress.-Turkish Bits.-Women
asleep. The Route to Antioch.-George Dib absent-
His delay in procuring Horses. - Method of treating the
Moosellim.-Leave Antioch at Midnight.-Quit the Tar-
tar at Beilan.—Narrow Escape of the Consul's Servant at
Scanderoon. An English Captain.- Tartar rides an Ass.
-Mustuk Bey's Quarters.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Mustuk Bey.. Second Arrival in Adana.
238
Punishment
of the Bastinado.-Humanity of a Drummer. Interview
with a Greek Officer. Wretched Residence at the Post-
house. After three days obtain Horses. - Ridge below
Mount Taurus. The Pacha's Road. Beautiful Alpine
Scenery. Village. Supper at the Sheikh's. Pleasant
Valley. Streams from the melting Snow. - Magnificent
Mountain Pass.
- -
253
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Podento.-Cobbler's Divan.-Pitiable condition of a Blind
Man.-Villagers retired to the Mountains.-Their Taber-
nacles. Interview with the Sheikh.-Tartar's straightfor-
ward method of riding.-River Halys.-Eregli.-Kindness
of a young Girl.-Plains of Karamania.-Repose at mid-day
upon the Plain.-Village of Arten.-Lycaonia.-Ismil.—
Cleanliness of a Cottage.-Clouted Cream.
CHAPTER XXXV.
268
Face of country changed beyond Ismil.-Water Fowl.—
Leech-catchers.-Konieh.-Scene of an Engagement be-
tween the Turks and Egyptians.-Tartar's want of judg-
ment in Riding. Occupy a House Dislodged from
it. Repose in a Marsh.-Primitive Cart.--Horse exhaust-
ed. Yat Xan.-Antioch of Pisidia. — Ioucheen. — Village