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called, was frequently repeated at every table. Opposite to where we sat a young Dutch couple were making violent love; they kissed, devoured dry salted fish, and drank punch with an enthusiasm, which presented to our imagination the warmest association of Cupid and the jolly god. John Van Goyen, who died in 1656, and was so justly celebrated for the transparency of his colouring of water, made this spot the frequent subject of his charming pencil. Dutch tradition dwells with delight upon a cock and a bull story respecting the celebrated flying chariot which used to sail upon those lands, and on the surrounding country. It was said to have been made by Stevinus, for Prince Maurice: it is thus described and commented upon in a curious old description of Holland: "The form of it was simple and plain: it resembled a boat moved upon four wheels of an equal bigness, had two sails, was steered by a rudder placed between the two hindmost wheels, and was stopt either by letting down the sails, or turning it from the wind. This noble machine has been celebrated by many great authors, as one of the most ingenious inventions later ages have produced. Bishop Wilkins, in his Treatise of Mechanical Motions, mentions several great men who described and admired it. Grotius mentions an elegant figure of it in copper, done by Geyneus; and Herodius, in one of his large maps of Asia, gives another sketch of the like chariots used in China." Incredible as this story appears, one would be disposed to think, that a man of Grotius's celebrity for learning and truth, would scarcely have eulogized the invention, had he doubted its existence. Upon a level, hard, straight road, uninterrupted by trees and buildings, such a piece of ingenuity might perhaps prove successful as a mechanical experiment, but utterly impossible ever to be made serviceable.

CHAPTER X.

HISTORICAL ANECDOTE OF SCHEVELING....ANECDOTE OF LORD NELSON....A MARINE SCENE....PASSION OF DUTCH FOR FLOWERS NOT SUBSIDED....VENERATION OF DUTCH FOR STORKS....CAUSES OF IT....QUAILS AND SWANS... HUMOUROUS BLUNDER OF A DUTCH WAITER.....UNIVERSAL INDUSTRY.....DOGS AND GOATS.....THE ECONOMY.....PRODIGAL PROCREA

THEATRE.....THEATRICAL

TION.....PRESENT STATE OF THE HAGUE.....STATE OF LITERA

TURE THERE....BRIEF

ANECDOTE OF DANIEL MYTENS....OF

JOHN HANNEMAN....OF JOHN LE DUC, OR THE BRAVE.

THE coast of Scheveling is considered very dangerous in rough weather: the spires of the church here, and those of Gravesande and Monster, three leagues to the south, serve for landmarks; yet, owing to the coast of the province of Holland lying very low and flat, they are scarcely discernible three or four leagues at sea: for want of sand-banks to break the force of the sea, the the coast is much exposed, and the fishermen are obliged, after their return, to haul their vessels on rollers up the beach beyond the water's reach: this labour must be very great, for many of them are from twenty to thirty-five tons burthen.

This place has been at different periods subject to dreadful irruptions of the sea, particularly in the year 1574, when it broke in, and carried away 121 houses: Scheveling has its portion of historic celebrity. In 1650, the expatriated Charles II. after a long exile, embarked from this place for Scotland, to which he was invited, with a promise of assistance in recovering the rest of his dominions. Clarendon, in his History, vol. iii. p. 287, says, the king went from the Hague to Scheveling, where "the States of Holland, at infinite hazard to themselves from Cromwell and England, suffered their ship to transport him. They gave all countenance to the Scotch merchants and factors who lived in their do

minions, and some credit, that they might send arms and ammunition, and whatsoever else was necessary for the king's service, into that kingdom." And this the States did "when the king was at his lowest ebb, and was heartily weary of being in a place (Paris) where he was very ill-treated, and lived very uncomfortably, and from whence he foresaw he should soon be driven." Having experienced the most romantic vicissitudes after his escape from Worcester, this monarch, in the disguise of a sailor, escaped to Dieppe in Normandy, in 1651; and he again, in 1660, embarked at Scheveling on board of his own fleet, which was waiting to receive him. The grateful monarch declared war against his Dutch friends in 1672, and entered into a private league with the French king to lay waste their provinces with fire and sword. From this beach too the Stadtholder, his son the hereditary prince, and two or three Dutch noblemen attached to the prostrate fortunes of the house of Orange, embarked when they fled to England: the vessel they sailed in was a small fishing cutter, navigated by five men; the princesses took their departure in a similar conveyance the day before.

Another interesting event also is recorded as having occurred off this coast, by Bishop Burnet, who in the History of his Own Times thus relates this marvellous circumstance: "There was one extraordinary thing happened near the Hague this summer(1672); I had it from many eye-witnesses, and no doubt was made of the truth of it by any at the Hague. Soon after the English fleet had refitted themselves, they appeared in sight of Scheveling, making up to the shore. The tide turned, but they reckoned that with the next flood they could certainly land the forces that were on board, where they were like to meet with no resistance. The States sent to the prince for some regiments to hinder the descent. He could not spare many men, having the French near him; so between the two, the country was given up for lost unless De Ruyter should quickly come up. The flood returned, which the people thought was to end in their ruin; but to all their amazement, after it had flowed two or three hours, an ebb of many hours succeeded, which carried the fleet again to sea; and before that was spent, De Ruyter came

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in view. This they reckoned a miracle wrought for their preservation." It is also a curious circumstance that the reverse of this extraordinary effort of nature enabled the immortal Nelson to lay his fleet so as to bear upon the batteries by which the capital of Denmark was protected. The tide had never been known, in the memory of the oldest inhabitant of Copenhagen, to have risen so high as on the day when the battle first commenced, and greatly contributed to his success in persuading the gallant Danes that they were beaten.

De Ruyter, the Nelson of the Dutch, was distinguished for the boldness of his designs and the celerity of his execution. In 1653, with Van Tromp, he commanded the Dutch fleet against this country with the greatest honour to his flag. The Moors presented him with a Barbary horse, magnificently caparisoned, for his gallantly reaching his destined port in the Salee roads, and for capturing five powerful Algerine corsairs. The celebrated vice-admiral * d'Estrés said of him in a letter to Colbert, on account of his noble conduct in those hard-fought engagements between the English, Dutch, and French fleets off the Texel, " I should be very willing to purchase with my life the glory which De Ruyter has acquired in these desperate actions."

On our return we met groups of little girls, whose short petticoats, and protuberances on all sides, looked very grotesque. Many of the Dutch girls of the lower order wear twenty or thirty yards of flannel tied round their hips. In the village is a pauper house for the poor and aged, founded in 1614. On a week day, the road from Scheveling is more characteristically gay, being covered with fishwomen running and singing to the Hague, under loads of soles, cod, turbot, &c. to which place I returned, highly delighted with my excursion. In the neighbourhood of that city are several fine flower-gardens. The passion of the Dutch for flowers is well known. M. Dutens, in his very entertaining and interesting Memoirs of a Traveller in Retirement, says, that at the kermes or fair held at the Hague in the month of May, " I was witness to a circumstance I could not otherwise have believed, respecting the price of flowers in Holland; I saw four hundred and seventy-five guineas offered and refused for a hyacinth, It was

to be sure the most charming flower that ever was seen: it belonged to a florist at Haerlem, and another florist offered this price for it. The reason which the owner gave me for refusing the offer was, that his hyacinth was known to all the amateurs of Europe, and that he sold the bulbs every year for more than the interest of five hundred guineas. These bulbs produced the same sort of flower in all its beauty." This singular passion has not subsided: at Haerlem fine narcissuses and jonquils sell for an immense price, and parties are made every summer to visit the roses, which grow in great perfection at Noordwyk.

Upon our return to the Hague, we visited a palace of the cidevant hereditary Prince of Orange; it forms three sides of an oblong square towards the street; it was converting into a public office; behind are some pretty gardens, one of which is less formal than Dutch gardens in general. I concluded the day by walking round a great part of the town, the whole of which is surrounded with avenues of trees, similiar to, but not so fine as the boulevards of Rouen. In the fish-market, the next day, I saw several storks, who were parading about in perfect security, of which they seemed to be thoroughly satisfied, and were every now and then regaled by the offal of the fish. The prejudices of the people have consecrated these birds, on account of their being considered as the gardes du corps of republican liberty. The Greeks and Romans regarded them with peculiar veneration; and in Thessaly the destroyer of one was punished with exile. No animal but this discovers any token of fondness for the authors of its existence after it has attained strength and discrimination sufficient to provide for itself. The stork is well known to evince an exemplary regard for its aged parents, whom it defends from attack, and furnishes with food; and well did it deserve the Roman appellation of "pia avis." The Dutch frequently erect frames of wood upon the tops of their houses to encourage these their favourite birds to build their nests there. Perhaps another reason why these birds are so much cherished is that which renders them popular in Germany, namely, on account of their quick perception of fire, and the noise they make when it takes place. If the

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