Analysis of Hay of Paspalum dilatatum.

By F. B. GUTHRIE.

THE hay, of which the following is a complete analysis, was supplied from the Wollongbar Experimental Farm, Richmond River:

I subjoin an analysis of hay from meadow-grass (name unknown) of English source, which will afford a comparison of the value of these fodders. From this it will be seen that the amounts of total albumenoids, and of digestible fibre, which are the chief factors in determining the feeding value of the hay, are very similar, with a slight advantage in favour of the Paspalum hay. The solubility of the fibre, albumenoids, and mineral matter being, moreover, greater than with the English hay. The most striking peculiarity is, however, the comparatively large amount of nitrogenous matter other than albuinenoids. The nitrogen in these combinations is of comparatively no feeding value.

The Paspalum hay compares very favourably with ordinary hay, containing a larger proportion of digestible and nourishing material.

If both analyses are calculated to dry substance, it will be found that the Paspalum hay shows the higher albumenoid content, the amount of digestible fibre being almost identical.

Practical Vegetable and Flower Growing.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE MONTH OF JUNE.

Vegetables.

ALTHOUGH we are now in mid-winter, the winter in this Colony is generally so mild, when comparing it to such winters as those experienced in Canada, other parts of North America, and the northern portions of Europe, that we have no difficulty in raising a sufficient supply of nearly all the best sorts of vegetables that can be grown.

There are some vegetables which will not stand even a slight touch of frost, but so little is known generally about them in the Colony that the tenderest are sometimes sown in winter. Those who read these directions are advised not to attempt to sow anything that is not recommended.

Be very particular in clearing away all weeds, decaying vegetables, and refuse generally, and always keep your garden as clean and sweet as you possibly can. And this is not a difficult matter by any means. It only requires frequent attention, and if your work is carried on in some system, the time occupied need be but little. The successful working of a garden depends, to a great extent, if not altogether, on the interest taken in the work.

So many different kinds of vegetables can be produced in a garden (and this applies to nearly the whole of New South Wales), that the food bill of of a family can, by a little hard work, be greatly reduced. Every endeavour should be made by struggling farmers to produce on their farms as much as possible of what they require for food and comfort.

There should be no difficulty in procuring all the manure needed for the garden, for the collecting of the droppings of cows, horses, sheep, and fowls need occupy but little time. Pig manure is objectionable for vegetables, as it is liable to impart a disagreeable and offensive flavour to them. But it is an excellent manure for the flower-garden, especially when it is thoroughly

rotten.

To make the best manure for vegetables, collect the droppings of the before-mentioned animals, and, if possible, the liquid evacuated by them. Also collect dead leaves, and if they are damp and half rotten, all the better. Mix all these things together under some kind of cover, so that heavy rain cannot wash out the best part of the manure. Do not suppose that the best portion of the manure is the bulky part, for it is not so. The best and most valuable part constitutes a very small proportion, and it can, or a great part of it can, be washed away by rain. The bulky part is doubtless of considerable value from its mechanical and other effects in the soil. Our soils generally require a considerable quantity of vegetable matter, and heavy dressings of farmyard manure make up for the deficiency. You have only

to try its effects, and the results will show how much better and more friable, and more easily worked, and how much better plants will succeed if good dressings of carefully rotted farmyard manure be applied to your garden. When rotting the manure it should not be allowed to become too dry, and this can be obviated if all the dish-water and house-washings are emptied over it daily; but, at the same time, do not allow it to become too wet. A little experience will soon show how to act, and how to make good manure. Bones burnt to powder will make a useful addition to the manure-heap. This is, perhaps, the best and easiest method of using them, for, although all the nitrogen will be lost, the phosphates will be saved, and this is the principal substance in bones, and of great value as manure. It is important to know that if the droppings of animals are not well rotted, and the manure is used fresh, there is every probability of heavy crops of weeds being introduced into the garden, for the droppings, especially of sheep, are almost sure to contain considerable quantities of the seeds of weeds.

Readers of these suggestions for vegetable-growing, who are starting to work for the first time at making a vegetable-garden, are advised not to grow their vegetables amongst their fruit-trees. There is always a great temptation to do so, but it is a mistake unless the trees are very young indeed. It is far better to set apart a piece of ground altogether for the vegetables; it need not be very large, but it should be kept clean, thoroughly well cultivated, and constantly under crop. The ground should be well drained, and, if possible, trenched 2 feet deep all over, including paths; and great care must be taken to have an outlet for surplus water, especially if the ground is stiff and of a clayey nature. When it is being trenched the top soil should not be turned over to the bottom, and the subsoil brought to the surface, but it should be managed that the surface soil be kept to the top, and this can easily be done if the matter be well thought over.

Artichoke, Globe.-Some suckers or young plants may be put out during the month, but this may be delayed, if necessary, until nearer spring. It is a vegetable hardly worth the growing, and one that takes up a good deal of space in the garden. Plant the suckers or young plants about 3 feet apart, and if the soil is dry they had better be well watered after planting.

Artichoke, Jerusalem.-This is quite a different vegetable to the above, and in no way related to it, and, properly speaking, is not an artichoke at all. It is a native of Brazil. It is a remarkably easy vegetable to grow, and will succeed on almost any kind of soil if it be well dug and well manured with old rotten manure. Over-manuring is apt to cause the stalks to grow too rank, and then the tubers will not be so plentiful. It is an excellent vegetable, as well as a wholesome one, and it should be grown in every vegetable-garden. The tubers had better be planted as soon as they can be obtained, as they will not keep out of the ground for any length of time. Make rows about 3 feet apart, and plant the tubers along these rows about 1 foot apart, and about 5 inches deep. Cover with soil and keep free from weeds. Endeavours are being made by seedsmen in Europe to raise tubers as smooth as possible, and it is most probable their efforts will be successful.

Beans, Kidney. These may be sown in the warmest parts of the Colony, and only in places free from frosts.

Beans, Broad. The present month, June, is a suitable time to sow to any extent. This vegetable prefers a stiff soil, but will succeed fairly well in any soil if it be well manured. Sulphate of lime will be found to improve

Superphosphate of lime is also

the quality of the beans considerably.
useful. Manures rich in nitrogen should be avoided.

Cabbage. Sow a sufficient quantity of seed to meet requirements. Sow also some seed of the red or pickling cabbage, for it will be found to be useful. The pickling may be done without any difficulty. The cabbage should be cut up into fine cross-slices, and covered well with salt for about three days or more. The salt should be rubbed well into the cabbage occasionally. Then place the cut-up cabbage in pickle-jars, and pour in and cover with boiling vinegar. Allow it to cool, and then cork the bottles securely. This may be used at once. Cabbages may be planted out as required.

Endive.-Sow a little seed in the warm parts of the Colony. It is a native of a warm climate, and therefore succeeds well in warm places, although some varieties will grow well almost anywhere.

Carrot.-Sow a few rows of this useful vegetable, and thin out former sowings. The small carrots thinned out need not be thrown away, for they can be used in soups. Try Early Shorthorn variety.

Leek. This is a good, useful, and wholesome vegetable, and should be grown largely. Sow a good quantity of seed in a seed-bed. If any fairsized seedlings are available, plant them out in very richly-manured shallow trenches. Some of the best varieties are London Flag and improved Musselburg. The trenches should be about 18 inches apart, and the young leeks should be planted deep in the soil, about 9 inches apart. The leek is a greedy feeder, and needs abundance of manure and water to bring it to the greatest perfection.

Lettuce.-Sow a little seed, and plant out strong seedlings from the seedbed. Remove them carefully, and, if possible, without breaking their roots. Onion.-Sow a little seed, and attend to seedlings which are coming up from former sowings. They must be kept quite free from weeds. Thin out as the plants become strong. Spread a dressing of soot and salt, half and half, about the young onions.

Parsnip.-Sow a little seed; thin out former sowings, and keep down the weeds as they grow.

Peas.-Sow largely, in rows about 3 feet apart. When the plants are about 3 or 4 inches high stick in some light brush or sticks along the rows for the peas to climb over. Be careful not to make the brush too dense and thick or the plants cannot grow. The seed should be put about 4 inches apart in drills, which should be about 3 or 4 inches deep, but not more.

Radish.-Sow small quantities of several sorts. Some are round and others long. Use them before they become large and hard.

Herbs.-Divide any old plants and replant.

Salad Plants, such as mustard and cress and radishes, may be sown from time to time as required. Tender radishes are always useful, but all that are hard, pithy, or overgrown should be pulled up and thrown to the pigs or chickens.

Flowers.

DURING the month of June a great deal of useful work can be done towards making new gardens. Wherever the leaves have fallen from roses and other deciduous plants, such plants may be removed and replanted. Plants ordered from nurserymen may arrive during the month, and these should be

planted out as soon as it can be done. When planting, examine the roots of each plant, and remove all that are broken and bruised with a sharp knife, and make as clean a cut as possible. The pruning of roses should be deferred, especially in the cold districts, until just before spring begins.

This is a good month to clear out rubbish from old overgrown gardens. Apply a good, heavy dressing of manure, and dig it in amongst those plants which are worth preserving.

The ever-popular carnations may be planted now or at any time of the year convenient. Those known as the tree or perpetual-flowering varieties are the most satisfactory to grow, as they bear flowers nearly all the year round. These plants will succeed in almost any kind of soil, provided it be well dug, drained, and manured with rotten farmyard manure. They will not stand severe drought, but they can be preserved if mulched and watered. The meaning of the term "mulch" is really "half-rotten straw," but it is applied to any substance, such as stable manure, leaves, straw, or anything that can be spread over the roots or plants to prevent the moisture in the soil from evaporating. In dry districts a thick mulch of stable manure will be found of great service to plants in the flower-garden.

Some of the best of the tree carnations, which can be obtained for about 1s. each in Sydney, are Alegatiere (white), Beauty of Shenley (salmon-edged and striped with crimson), Canary (sulphur yellow, flaked with white), Cassandra (creamy white, streaked with scarlet), Delicata (white, with rose edging), Duchess of Cambridge (salmon, striped with red), Ensign (terra cotta red), Eveline (beautiful light pink), Foxhunter (fine scarlet), Jubilee (bright pink, an excellent variety), Maiden's Blush (pink), Meteor (scarlet, large), Pride of Penshurst (yellow), Princess Alice (white, striped with red, one of the prettiest of the carnations), Red Riding Hood (scarlet, mottled with white), R. Henderson (white, striped with crimson, one of the hardiest and most useful), Souvenir de Malmaison (a very pretty pink), White Clipper (one of the best of the pure whites), Worthington Smith (scarlet).

Many persons are greatly puzzled with the different terms applied to carnations, and are equally puzzled to know the difference between carnations and picotees, therefore the following paragraph gives this information most clearly and simply. Carnations "are divided into three sectionsbizarres, flakes, and picotees. Bizarres are those in which the white groundcolour is striped with two colours, one of which is darker than the other. Flakes are those in which the ground-colour of the petals is striped with only one colour-purple, scarlet, or rose. Picotees, instead of being striped, have the petals edged with various shades of red, purple, rose, or scarlet, the band of colour being more or less dense, and of greater or less breadth in various varieties. Florists speak of the picotee as though it were a distinct plant from the carnation, yet both may be raised from seed produced in the same seed-pod, and both require the same treatment."

Carnation seed can be obtained from the seedsmen, and it is quite likely that some of the plants raised from a packet of seed may turn out worth growing, and as it would be much easier to obtain seed than plants in some of the country districts, a packet or two would be worth trying. Some little care will be required in sowing the seed; but the great secret is not to sow deep. A box, such as an ordinary soap or candle box, or a kerosene tin, will do very well to raise the seed in, but it must have holes in the bottom to let water drain through. Cover the bottom for about 2 inches deep with broken stones, shells, bricks, or something of such a nature to act as drainage; then fill up to within an inch or two of the top with fine open soil. Water this, and, after standing a while, sow the seed thinly on the