Practical Vegetable and Flower Growing. DIRECTIONS FOR THE MONTH OF JULY. Vegetables. THE weather is generally very cold during this month, and in the coldest parts of this Colony there is but little growth in the vegetables, but for all that, in most of the gardens there should be a good supply of vegetables available cabbage, savoys, turnips, &c. In the warmest parts of the Colony almost any kinds of vegetables can be sown or planted, and they will grow well. In some sheltered localities even the tender plants, like tomatoes and French beans may be had all through the winter. All spare ground should be dug up, and the surface kept rough, so as to expose as much of the soil to the atmosphere as possible, so that snow, frost, sun, and winds may act on it. Drain carefully, dig deep, and manure well, if you wish to grow good vegetables. When making your manure get as much of the liquid excrements of animals as you can, and mix with the solids. In the stables or cow-sheds use dead leaves, straw, or dry earth, or any good absorbent, for the liquid is the best part of the animal's manure you can obtain. Asparagus.-Preparation should be made for planting this desirable and wholesome vegetable. The planting had better be delayed until next month in the coldest upland districts of the Colony, or it may be delayed even later, so long as the buds or shoots have not started into growth. But it is highly desirable that the ground be made quite ready without delay, and the planting can be done at convenience. Dig the ground at least 18 inches deep, or it would be even better to trench 2 feet deep so long as the top soil is not turned to the bottom of the trench. It would be well to trench the whole of the garden to the same depth for then the drainage will be better. There is always a danger in trenching a small portion, for that portion will probably retain too much water after heavy rains, and then the plants are most likely to be injured, if not killed. If the land has been well cleared in the first instance from roots and stumps, a subsoil plough could be used with advantage, but bear in mind, it must be a subsoil plough-not a large trench plough. By removing the mould-board from an ordinary plough the subsoiling can be done effectively. At the same time, no ploughing in the world is so good as proper spade work. Jerusalem Artichoke.-This is a vegetable which should always be grown, for it is nourishing and wholesome, and very palatable when properly cooked in the skin. It is often spoiled by being boiled too watery. Indeed, many vegetables are spoiled by being badly cooked. The portion of Jerusalem artichoke which is used, is a tuber. The appearance of the plant is some what like that of a sunflower. Its botanical name is Helianthus tuberosus. It is a native of Brazil, and not Jerusalem, as is sometimes supposed, the word Jerusalem being a corruption of the Italian name, Girasole. The ground should be well dug, well drained, and well manured. Small tubers may be planted whole, and large ones may be divided and planted if supply is scarce. Plant about 5 inches deep, about 1 foot apart, in rows 3 feet to 4 feet apart. Those who planted this vegetable last season should now have an abundant supply of roots or tubers for use. These tubers should not be all dug up at once, for they do not keep very well when stored like potatoes. Dig them as they are required for the table. Bean, French.-In the warmest sub-tropical portion of the Colony it is quite possible to grow this vegetable all the year round, but it is useless sowing it where any frosts occur. This Broad Bean.-Sow a few rows for succession during the month. plant requires deep soil to enable it to come to the greatest perfection, for its roots will extend to a considerable depth when they have good open, deep soil. At the same time the soil should be well drained, as excessive moisture is injurious to it. Lime, potash, and phosphate of lime are the best manures as additions to farmyard manure, if the plants do not seem to succeed as they should. It is a good plan to nip off the tops of the plants when a good quantity of flowers have set, for then the growth of more flowers is stopped, and every effort of the plants is made to mature the seed. Pull the pods before the seeds become too hard. Broccoli. This is exceedingly like the cauliflower, and is, in fact, merely a variety which has become fixed; and of broccolis there are many varieties. Seed may be sown largely in small beds, and the seedlings transplanted when the young broccolis are large enough. Sow thinly in little drills and water occasionly, and on no account allow the beds to become very dry. Cabbage. A little seed may be sown in a seed-bed or box. Sow in little drills 2 inches or so apart, and do not use too much seed. Try several kinds of seed to ascertain which variety succeeds best in your district. If you have any good strong seedlings, transplant them to some well-manured ground that has been prepared for them. Oardoon. Is a vegetable worth testing for it is much liked by some persons. It belongs to the Globe Artichoke family and somewhat resembles that vegetable, but the tender leaves of the heart of the plants are eaten and not the flower buds as in the case of the artichoke. The seed is sown in spring and the seedlings are afterwards transplanted to well-manured beds, but this transplanting must be done very carefully or else the seedlings will die. It is the custom to sow seed in well-manured trenches, like celery trenches, and when it comes up, to thin the plants out to about 18 inches or 2 feet apart. The plants need good supplies of water and rich soil. When they have attained a good size they will need earthing up like celery in order to blanch their hearts. Leaves or straw should be tied round each plant before earthing up so as to prevent any soil dropping in amongst the leaves. Carrot. Sow a little seed in drills about 1 foot to 18 inches apart. out when the plants are large enough and keep quite free from weeds. Cauliflower.-Sow a little seed to keep up a supply and plant out any strong young seedlings you may have on hand. Thin Cucumber. In the warm coast climates sow a little seed in a sheltered position. It would be advisable to protect the bed at night with some bagging or other material, for fear of chance frosts or severe cold. Capsicums or Chillies.-May be sown and protected as recommended for cucumbers. Egg plants. Seed may also be sown in the warm districts. Leek.-Sow a little seed to keep up a supply. Plant out good strong young leeks to well-manured trenches and keep them well watered if the weather and soil are dry. Lettuce. Sow a little seed and plant out strong seedlings to well-manured ground. Onion.-Sow a good quantity of seed on well-manured and well-drained narrow beds where the seedlings can be weeded easily without treading amongst the plants. Sow in drills and cover the seed very lightly with fine soil. Parsnip.-Sow a little seed. Peas. These may be sown largely in rows from 3 to 4 feet apart accord ing to the height of the variety. For the higher it is likely to grow, the wider apart the rows should be. Savoy-Sow a little seed in a seed-bed. If any strong seedlings are available they may be planted out. The soil should be well manured before planting. Spinach.-Sow a little seed in drills 2 feet apart and thin out the plants when they come up to about 1 foot from plant to plant. Swede turnip.-Sow a little seed in drills. Tomato.-Seed may be sown in the warm climates, but protect at night. Turnip.-Sow a little seed in drills. Flowers. THE weather is generally extremely cold and frosty over the greater part of New South Wales during the month of July; flowers are scarce, and the gardens as a rule appear bare and particularly miserable, if not cleaned and kept free from fallen leaves and rubbish. Any garden, however, that has a good supply of tea-scented roses, daphnes, camellias, violets, and daffodils, should have some flowers all the year round. The good old Bourbon roses, Souvenir de la Malmaison, and the tea-scented, Comtesse de la Barthe, are treasures to have. They are almost constantly in blossom, and their flowers when half open are as beautiful as any you could wish to have. The sweetscented daphnes are now in blossom, and the perfume of the wax-like flowers very delicious. When the flowers are all over, these plants may be pruned back, and they may thus be kept in better shape and more bushy than if allowed to grow at will. is be All sorts of herbaceous plants, that is, those plants which are perennial and which lose their stems every year, although their roots are alive, may divided and replanted. To this class of plants belong chrysanthemums, delphiniums or perennial larkspur, perennial phloxes, pentstemons, and some of the salvias. The term 66 perennial" means a plant that lives for more than two years. Roses, carnations, pinks, and all kinds of hardy plants may be transplanted, and the garden should have a dressing of rotten farmyard manure forked neatly in, after it has been well cleaned up. But great caution should be taken not to disturb any bulbs that may be just starting into growth. In the warm parts of the Colony, which are not subject to frosts, seeds of tender annuals may be sown, as well as hardy annuals, if the latter were not previously sown. The following annuals and perennials are well worth growing:-Amaranthus of varieties, beautiful ornamental-leaved annuals, Anagallis, Anterrhinum (snap dragon) of varieties, Columbine of varieties, Armeria or thrift, Asters of varieties, rather tender, Auriculas for cold districts, Browellia alata, Calandrina, Coreopsis of varieties, Campanula (Canterbury bell) of varieties, Candytuft of varieties, Carnations of varieties, Celosia or Cockscomb, Cornflower, (Centaurea), sweet Sultan (Centaurea moschata), Chrysanthemum (Marguerite), Clarkia elegans, Cobæa scandens, a useful, strong-growing creeper, Cosmos of varieties, Cowslip, Daisy, Dahlia, Datura, Delphinum or Larkspur, Dianthus, Garden Pinks of varieties, Digitalis or foxgloves, Eschscholtzia of varieties, Everlasting Pea, Gaillardia, Gomphrena or Globe Amaranthus, Godetia of varieties, Pansy, Helichrysum (everlasting) of varieties, Sunflower of varieties, Hollyhock of varieties, Honesty, Iponopsis elegans, Sweet Pea of varieties, Linum coccineum, Scarlet Flax, Lobelia of varieties, Lupins of varieties, Marigold, French and African, maurandia alba and rosea (climbers), Mignonette, Myosotis (forgetme-not), Nasturtium of varieties, Nemophila, Nigella damascena (love in a mist), Poppy of varieties, Pentstemon, Phlox drummondii, Picotees, Polyanthus, Stocks of varieties, Scabiosa, Verbena, Virginian stock, and Wallflowers. If these are sown in the cool districts they will need protection from frosts. If no means of protection are available the sowing had better be delayed. Orchard Notes for July. THE Orchard Notes for June cover a large part of the July work, as orchard work during July is simply a continuation of the June work. Where pruning has not been completed it should be done now as soon as possible, the prunings being gathered and burnt, as previously recommended. "Winter spraying should always follow winter pruning, as at no time can you give the trees a more thorough dressing, or a dressing that will be of such allround value. Spraying can be done quicker and better now, and at a less cost, on account of the small amount of materials required, than at any other time of the year. If you can only afford one spraying a year, then let that spraying be with the sulphur, lime, and salt remedy, applied to the trees as soon as they are pruned. No progressive fruitgrower can afford to neglect spraying. It is as necessary for the health of his trees and for the production of sound fruit, free from disease, as is the manuring of the orchard or the pruning of the trees. Prune early and prune thoroughly, especially in the case of young trees. Do not be afraid to use the knife, but remember that the harder you cut back the stronger your next season's growth will be. If you want strong, symmetrical, well-grown trees, that will carry a crop of fruit and mature it without breaking apart by the weight of the fruit, then you must prune severely for the first few years. The pruning of old orchards consists more in the removal of broken or superfluous limbs and the shortening in of straggling or excessive growths than in the shaping of the tree, as if the tree is badly pruned when young it is a very difficult job to keep it in a good shape when in full bearing. After pruning and spraying, plough the orchard so as to bury all trash and weeds that may have accumulated whilst the orchard has been pruned and sprayed. Plough as deeply as you can, so as to thoroughly sweeten the land and to allow of deep summer cultivation, but do not plough so deeply as to injure the roots to any extent, especially if the soil is shallow. Where there is a good depth of soil and good natural drainage the ploughing may be deeper, as in the warmer districts especially it is not desirable to have any roots too near the surface, as surface roots are always the first to suffer during a spell of dry weather. These remarks refer to deciduous (summer) fruits, not to citrus. In the case of citrus fruits, unless there is a good depth of soil and thorough drainage, it is a mistake to plough at all deep, as the roots of citrus-trees in shallow, cold soils should be kept near the surface, the moisture in the soil being retained by proper mulching and surface cultivation. In ploughing the orchard use short-breasted American ploughs. They are handier, lighter, easier to draw, do more work, can be turned in less ground, and leave the land in a better state, as they turn it right over and leave it more open and lighter than any of the long-beamed and longbreasted ploughs often met with in our orchards-ploughs that no American orchardist would use at any price. Plough the whole of the land. You cannot afford hand labour in an orchard, as if you are going to grow fruit |