A safe way to throw a Bull.

PUT a halter on. Take a sound ordinary cart rope; make a loop at one end and pass it over the head, and let it rest close around the neck low down like a collar; bring the rope to the near side, pass it over the back just behind the shoulders; bring it underneath the chest and pass it under and then above the rope, so as to make a loop around the chest; carry the rope back, pass it over the loins, and bring it underneath the belly close to the

flanks; make another loop as before, and carry the rope straight behind the animal; tighten the loops, one close to the elbows, the other close to the hind flanks.

All being ready, instruct the man who holds the halter-shank to pull forward, and at the same time the men who have hold of the loose end of the rope to pull straight backward, and down the animal goes, generally without a struggle. Keep the head down and the rope firm, and, as a rule, the animal lies quietly until such time as it is desired he should get up, when slacken the rope and up he gets, none the worse for the casting.

The heaviest bull may be cast in this way.-Live Stock Journal.

Practical Vegetable and Flower Growing.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE MONTH OF SEPTEMBER.

Vegetables.

EVERYONE who grows vegetables should learn as much as he can about manures and their effects, for it is not by any means frequently possible to hit upon soil that can stand the effects of the constant cropping of vegetables without becoming to a considerable extent exhausted, and consequently unfitted to produce vegetables worth the growing.

The best manure for general purposes is beyond doubt well-made farmyard manure, and this can be much improved by the manures known as artificial manures, such as bone-meal, superphosphate of lime, sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, muriate of potash, and kainit. A few pounds weight of superphosphate of lime, sulphate of ammonia and kainit, or potash manure, would improve say a cartload of farm-yard manure considerably.

If these artificial manures are applied to the soil when it is very dry plants cannot make use of them, and not until the rain falis or water can be applied by some means. Plants suck up or absorb by their roots their necessary food when that food is in a moist condition. They can to a considerable extent dissolve certain salts by the assistance of a solvent which their roottips contain.

It may be mentioned that of the artificial manures that known as nitrate of soda is the most quickly dissolved in the soil, but this manure is very little used in the Colony at present, although it is an admirable special nitrogenous

manure.

Before anyone makes use largely of artificial manures he should endeavour to become acquainted with the nature and action on plants of the various kinds such as potash, nitrogen, sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, blood manure, superphosphate, &c., because a great deal of waste and, indeed, injury has been caused by the injudicious use of them.

The safest advice that can be given is that everyone who can obtain abundance of farmyard manure, that is, a mixture of cow-dung, horse-dung, sheepdung, and fowl-dung, with straw, &c., &c., should stick to this for his vegetables and flowers, for, with its assistance, it is quite possible to grow, provided the climate is favourable, as good flavoured vegetables and as beautiful flowers as can be grown. For the flowers, to the above can be added pigdung, which is objectionable for vegetables.

If, however, artificial manures are to be used in dry weather on dry soil, they should be applied in water as liquid manure. But great caution must be used not to make the liquid manure too strong, for plants need their food in an extremely diluted state, and can make use of but little manure at a time. It would be safe not to use more than two ounces of any artificial manure with each gallon of water. This can be applied frequently, say two or three times a week.

Vegetables need a great deal of water, but at the same time it is quite possible to give them too much. Anyone who has watched a Chinaman at work, watering his vegetables, might think such a statement a mistake, but it is not so, and it is hoped and trusted that by the assistance of these directions any intelligent thoughtful man, who makes an effort to grow his own vegetables, will succeed in raising infinitely better ones than the Chinaman whose productions are without flavour, are watery, insipid, and not infrequently uneatable. Imitate then the Chinaman's indomitable pluck and energy by all means, but not his methods.

Before leaving the question of manuring, it may be stated that by using plenty of farmyard manure the soil becomes far more retentive of moisture than it otherwise would; and repeated applications of artificial manures, without vegetable matter, have a tendency to cause the soil to "run together" and become dry and hard. Excellent liquid manure can be made from the dung of animals soaked in water. If this liquid be allowed to ferment it becomes very strong and should be diluted considerably with water. Whenever it is possible to do so obtain the urine or liquid part of the excretions of animals, for this is the best part of the manure. To secure this, use in stables or cow-sheds litter, straw, leaves, soil, sawdust, or anything that will absorb it when voided. Farmyard manure makes a splendid mulch, and you could not do better than spread a thick mulch, at the present season and before the hot summer sets in, all about your garden, vegetable, fruit, or flowers. Do not be afraid to put it on too thick, for it will do no harm, but much good.

In many parts of the Colony the ground begins to get sufficiently warm for vegetables of a rather tender nature, and consequently it would be advisable to sow seeds of as many varieties of useful vegetables as would be likely to thrive. It is a mistake to depend on one or two kinds, such as cabbages and pumpkins, which are apparently the most generally grown in the country, when vegetables are grown at all.

Asparagus. It may not be too late in cold districts to plant this useful vegetable. If the plants have not begun to shoot they may be safely moved from the seed-bed to their permanent bed.

Arrowroot. If you have sufficient space in your vegetable garden, plant out some tubers of arrowroot, provided your locality is in one of the warm districts of the Colony. This plant may be seen in patches in many gardens growing without the slightest care, and probably no use is made of it, possibly for a want of knowledge as to how to obtain the starchy matter from the roots. There should be no difficulty in making excellent arrowroot, for all that is needed is a good supply of clean pure water and a rough grater. The latter can be made from a side of a kerosene tin, bent into a half-circle and nailed on a board; but before nailing on the board, knock as many holes through it as you can with a large nail or the sharp end of a file. The writer has used such graters frequently, and they answered admirably for grinding up the roots into a pulp. When sufficient pulp has been ground up it should be allowed to soak in water for some time, then rubbed about and strained on a fine sieve. The starchy matter termed arrowroot will sink to the bottom of the water, which may then be poured off. Frequent washings will be necessary before the starch is sufficiently clean and white for use. It should be spread out on clean cloths in the sun to thoroughly dry, after which it can be put away in bottles or jars until required for use. Children can very soon learn how to manufacture arrowroot suitable for home use. The writer used to make quantities before he had attained the age of ten years. The best kind of arrowroot is

made from a small-growing plant, Maranta arundinacea, which grows to a height of about 2 feet. This plant is not very plentiful in this Colony, and requires a warmer climate than the arrowroot, Canna edulis. Either of these had better be planted about the end of the month. Be sure to thoroughly clean the roots before they are ground up when making arrowroot.

Beans, kidney or French.-A most useful, prolific, and easily grown vegetable, the seed of which should not be sown until frosts are all over. The ground should be well dug, and made as level as possible. If artificial manures are used, those containing a large percentage of ammonia or nitrogen, such as sulphate of ammonia, guano, nitrate of ammonia, blood manure, or soot should be avoided; but superphosphate of lime and potash, old lime rubbish, lime, gypsum, and bone-meal may be applied with every chance of improving the yield of the beans. The seed should be sown in rows 2 ft. 6 in. or more apart. Make drills about 3 or not more than 4 inches deep, and drop the seeds along the bottom of the drills 4 or 5 inches apart, cover with fine soil, and firm down with the back of a spade. Seed, as a rule, is sown too thickly together, and the beans have not sufficient space to grow properly. Two rows of dwarf beans, 15 to 20 feet in length, will be quite sufficient to sow at a time. In about two weeks after sowing put in two more rows, and so on, in order to keep up a continuation of this excellent vegetable. It is advisable to grow the dwarf kind only, for the runners need to be supported, and this always takes considerable time and trouble which might be better expended on other vegetables.

In the United States of America considerable attention is given, at the Government Experimental Stations, to the testing of varieties of beans, and authentic reports as to their respective merits are published from time to time. If it be possible, similar work will shortly be done with various kinds of vegetables in New South Wales in connection with the Department of Agriculture, and doubtless such good work will prove of considerable value. Bean, Lima.-This should be treated in the same manner as the kidney bean. The seeds, either in a green or dried state, are used, and not the pods. There is a tall-growing runner variety, and also a dwarf; the first named bears the best beans. Sow the seeds wider apart than those of the French or kidney bean.

Beet, Red-Sow a little seed of this useful vegetable in drills 1 foot or 18 inches apart, not deeper than 1 inch. As the seed takes some time to germinate or come up, it can be started into growth if put between damp flannel, or damp bags, in a warm place. As soon as the shells begin to burst, sow in the drills, and then water before covering with soil. As soon as the water has soaked into the soil cover up. Mark the ends of the rows with short sticks, so that you can tell, when weeding the beds, where the plants will come up.

Fresh manure should not be used for this vegetable.

Beet, Silver.-Manure the ground well for this vegetable, in order to induce the growth of good succulent leaves, for the leaves only are used, and not the root, like the red beet. A single row a few feet in length will be sufficient if the plants are well cultivated and sometimes supplied with a good soaking of liquid manure, made from the droppings of animals.

Cabbage.-Sow a little seed in a seed bed. Make little drills about a quarter of an inch deep with your finger, sow thinly, and cover with fine soil. Then get some old, dry cow-dung, break it up fine, and scatter over the surface about a quarter or half an inch deep. This will be found exceedingly useful also for any other kind of vegetable seeds. It acts as a mulch, and prevents the evaporation of moisture, when sometimes, and not