Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

need, we departed, and returned to the place where I had ordered the carriage to come, into which we got, and proceeded on to New York, where we arrived about five o'clock on the morning of Sunday. Having arranged to have a boat in waiting from his Majesty's packet, with feelings that never shall be effaced from my memory, I placed the remains under the British flag.

As soon as the removal of the sarcophagus to the packet was known in this city, it was not only honourable to the feelings of the citizens, but cheering to my mind, depressed as it had been, to find the sentiments which prevailed. Ladies sent me flowers; others, various emblematic devices, garlands, &c., to decorate the remains of the "lamented and beloved André." A beautiful and ornamented myrtle among those sent, I forwarded with the sarcophagus to Halifax, where Lieut.-General Sir James Kempt, governor of Nova Scotia, caused every proper mark of respect to be paid to the remains. From thence they reached London, and were deposited near the monument which had been erected to his memory in the Abbey, and a marble slab placed at the foot of the monument, on which is set forth their removal by the order of his Royal Highness the Duke of York. *

- Having represented to his Royal Highness the generous conduct of the Rev. Mr. Demarat, I recommended that his Royal Highness should convey to him a snuff-box, made out of one of the trees which grew at the grave, which I sent home. But my suggestion was far outdone by the princely munificence of his Royal Highness, who ordered a box to be made out of the tree, and lined with gold, with an inscription, "From his Royal Highness the Duke of York, to the Rev. Mr. Demarat." While speaking of this act of liberality, I was unexpectedly honoured with a silver inkstand, with the following inscription :-"The surviving sisters of Major André to James Buchanan, Esq., his Majesty's Consul, New York." They also sent a silver cup, with a suitable inscription, to Mr. Demarat. I need not add, that I cherish this inkstand, (which I am now using,) and shall bequeath it to my children as a memorial which I prize with no ordinary feeling.

I omitted to mention, that I had the peach tree which had been planted on the grave (the roots of which had surrounded the skull, as set forth) taken up with great care, with as much of the clay as it was possible to preserve around the roots, and brought it to my garden in New York, where my daughters attended it with almost pious solicitude, shading it during the heat of the day, watering it in the cool of the evening, in the hope of preserving it to send to England. Had it reached his sisters, they would no doubt have regarded it as another Minerva; for, though it did not spring out of, yet it was nourished by, their beloved brother's head. I have only to add, that, through the kind interference of my brother consul at Philadelphia, I obtained Major Andre's watch, which he had to part with when a prisoner, during the early part of the war. This watch I sent to England lately; so that I believe every vestige connected with the subject of this narrative has been sent to the land of his birth, in the service of which his life was sacrificed. J. BUCHANAN.

*We shall procure and insert a transcript both of the original inscription on the monument, and of that added by the Duke of York, as showing that H.R.H. was influenced by the desire to do that which appeared to him consistent with the course which his revered Father had pursued.-ED.

SKETCHES OF A YEAR'S SERVICE IN THE EGYPTIAN MARINE, IN 1832 AND 1833.

(No. I.)

"Ye'll get the best o' moral works

'Mang black Gentoos and pagan Turks,
Or hunters wild on Ponotaxi,

Wha never heard of orthodoxy."-BURNS.

WHILE you in England are busying and fretting yourselves about reform bills and reformed parliaments, about the means of redressing the wrongs of the "finest pisantry in the world," or of thinning the superfluous population of the land of potatoes by the "argument of pike and gun;"-while you are engaged in these philanthropic occupations, we are quietly enjoying our unlimited freedom, both in purse and person, and getting a living into the bargain, under the government of a Turkish despot; and it is really wonderful how comfortable one can be under such circumstances, particularly when we consider that we are in the power of a man who can shorten by the head any one that he pleases, merely by nodding his own. But really the Turks have been so sadly belied, that it appears a hopeless task to endeavour to possess the public with what are called, in the present day, liberal feelings towards them.

When I left England, I had my head full of ideas of bowstrings, sabres, daggers, yattigans, and the application thereof to the personal satisfaction of the obnoxious; but the schoolmaster has been so much abroad here, that I assure you seriously the aforesaid instruments have grown quite into disrepute; perhaps the reason is, that our friends here have lately had so much to do in the way of killing their neighbours, that they have had no time to attend to the slaying of one another. However this may be, we have nevertheless very strange ideas indeed, in England, of the habits and manners of the Turks, and I cannot, I think, do better than give you a regular account of them just as I find them, and if you do not then think of them very differently from what you do at present, I shall be greatly mistaken.

You must, however, previously take warning, that you are not to expect a detailed account of the war, but must rest yourself contented with the marine campaign, which I feel a particular pleasure in relating, inasmuch as it terminated entirely to my satisfaction, that is to say, without our coming to blows. There are some people in this world who appear to have an innate fondness for fighting, or as the phrenologists would say, have the organ of combativeness particularly well developed; this to me is perfectly inexplicable, I having a particular antipathy to that department, partly in consequence of the said organ being unusually small in my proper person, and partly because I have some uncomfortable misgivings that at the termination of the affair I might possibly find myself in anything but a status ante bellum.

We will, however, leave these things to the discussion of greater philosophers, and content ourselves with less speculative affairs, trusting that the delay which has been occasioned by the above remark will only serve to whet the appetite for the forthcoming novelties.

I must, as a preliminary, introduce you to the city, port, and arsenal of Alexandria, and however contemptible your opinion of them may be, you may rest assured, the Turks have the modesty to consider them, if not the best, at least among the best of cities, ports, and arsenals in this our sublunary globe.

An Englishman, when he first approaches the coast of Egypt, naturally, and as it were by instinct, begins to arrange in his head the various ideas he has previously conceived of Oriental magnificence, splendid ruins of antiquity, the fields of former battles, the fertile banks of the Nile, where Antony and Cleopatra sported away time and lost half the world, the massy pyramids and all the recollections connected with them; not to say anything of the confused mass of smaller ideas about Memnon and mummies, crocodiles and sphinxes, which crowd his imagination, and fill up the scene which he is so impatient to examine. But alas! upon landing, all these splendid visions of fancy blow up like an overcharged steam-engine, and evaporate with rapidity every step we advance.

It is perfectly true we meet with abundance of things which are anything but consonant with our manners and customs in England, and the singularity and numberless variety of costume form a scene alone, which some people would call picturesque. We must, however, freely confess, that we have no taste that way, and have a thorough contempt for all sorts of finery, except when we see it in England, gracefully displayed in the ornament of our fair countrywomen. By the by, the Turks have been said to be the best-dressing people in the world. Without disputing the fact, we must in justice assert, that there are among them also some of the worst-dressing people in the world, if a state approaching to nudity can be considered as dressing at all. We are, however, digressing from our subject, and must recall our attention to the city of Alexandria itself.

If it were possible that a shower of houses, mosques, and buildings could fall from the skies and just form a city upon the spot where they fell, I should most certainly have been inclined to believe that the city of Alexandria had been thus made by accident, as it is impossible to conceive how the art of man could have contrived a town, concentrating in itself such a total defiance of all regularity and order, and in which rubbish is accumulating upon rubbish, from age to age. We were quite astonished, upon landing, to find the streets narrow and dirty in the extreme; the admiralty-wharf (as we should call it in England) was the place where we first set foot upon Egyptian ground: the offices attached were merely sheds, a hundred times worse in the construction than a very second-rate English barn. The mosques and their minarets, which we expected were at all events somewhat decent, are absolutely ruinous; and upon a superficial examination only, a traveller would certainly have considerable hesitation in trusting himself over the threshold of one of them, from the great probability there seems of being suddenly imbedded in a shower of stones and mortar: but, however, these unlucky accidents do not often happen, for the people are most assiduous in propping up and giving support to these tottering temples, in a manner that certainly does not add much to their uniformity or architectural elegance, but yet is sufficient to give them that appearance of stability that enables a Moslem to worship at his ease.

But notwithstanding this bad taste, or to speak more correctly, this total absence of taste, there is still much that is worth seeing in the city of Alexandria. Improvement is going on rapidly, and it is by no means improbable, that in a few years it may become a large and splendid city. At present it is the most romantic mixture of ancient and modern that the most ardent admirer of elegant confusion could desire. The Turks have undoubtedly a first-rate contempt for the antique, and we see the most splendid remains of ancient architecture applied to the most menial purposes; handsome granite and marble columns stuck up to support sheds and warehouses; the capitals and bases of what appear to have been formerly splendid columns are to be seen placed at the doors of houses, as stepping-stones by which to mount their horses; and in many places whole buildings are erected from the ruins of antiquity. Indeed, even the Pacha himself does not seem to possess the slightest respect for the memory of either Cheops or Ptolemy, and would without the least hesitation chop up the statue of either of them if it fell in his way, and appropriate it to any useful purpose for which it was suitable. The greater part of the fortifications, the arsenal, the warehouses and granaries, the dock-yard and the mole, have all been built by His Highness from the ruins of the ancient city, and he is still going on building and excavating for stone among the ruins, and thus obtains a cheap and abundant supply. The only two columns of antiquity which remain erect, as they were originally placed, are one of the needles of Cleopatra, and the celebrated pillar of Pompey but as these two are the Gog and Magog of the cockneys of Alexandria-the only lions-we shall not trouble the reader by intruding any remarks about them, taking it for granted that everybody knows already all that is known of or about them; but if there be any one who does not, we would recommend him to read the works of those chivalrous gentlemen who have hazarded their necks to climb to the tops of them, and who we consider are entitled solely to the right of describing them, especially when it is considered that that is the only reward they get for the hazard and trouble.

There is one circumstance, however, which renders Alexandria a fertile source of amusement to strangers, namely, the great and extraordinary medley of foreigners of all nations which are congregated here. The bulk of the native population consists of Arabs; there are three or four thousand Turks, and the remainder are Italians, French, Greeks, Jews, Armenians, Levantines, and a few English. Here we have every variety of religion, and perfect toleration for all: we have Mahomedans, Copts, Greeks, and Jews; we have protestants, catholics, and methodists; -we have, in fact, every possible variety. Each party, of course, is liberal enough to consider that all the others must infallibly be doomed to eternal darkness; and each party being thus firmly persuaded, the contempt they entertain for each other is perfectly mutual. This is just the thing, and we accordingly find that each conforms himself to the costume of his country or his faith, and we have it in every variety, from the descendant of Mahomet with his green turban, to the shaven head and cowl of the lazy monk; from the white turban of the venerable Pacha down to the cocked hat and feathers of our own proper consul.

But, after all, there is nothing so worthy of attention in this city as the Pacha himself,-the great, the good, the noble old Pacha;-he who,

in the space of a few years only, has so far civilized a nation of absolute savages, as to render his country formidable even to European powers; -he who, while assiduously cultivating the arts of peace, and encouraging commerce and trade, was at the same time preparing for war if occasion should require it ;-he who was at the same time establishing manufactories and raising a regular army to defend his possessions ;he who governed with justice and clemency, although invested with despotic power; and he who has now hewed his way with his victorious army from the deserts of Egypt to the very gates of Constantinople.

If ever there was a country where every movement could be directed by one man, Egypt is the place. The Pacha superintends, personally, almost everything; he is often to be seen in his boat as early as sunrise, rowing about the harbour and inspecting his fleet; he goes afterwards to the arsenal, where he transacts business with the merchants and holds a sort of levee; and in the afternoon he is again to be seen afloat, and frequently goes on board some of the ships. He has a very handsome boat which was built for him at Deal, rowed by an ample crew. These men, at every stroke they make with the oar, rise from their seats, at the same time turning away their faces, so as not to look at His HighThe venerable but vigorous old man, although upwards of sixty years of age, does not appear to be easily fatigued, and would not seem so old as he really is if it were not for his long white beard and turban.

ness.

The Pacha, looking forward to his country's good, at a period when he must be "gathered to his fathers," determines, if possible, to prolong the civilization he has begun, and has sent to England, France, and Italy, a number of youths to receive instruction in naval and military affairs, in mechanics and engineering, &c. These youths are supported with a liberal hand, and some of them who have returned to Egypt have been treated by him with honour and distinction. The Pacha, aware how greatly the residence of Europeans in the country contributes to its civilization, affords every protection to the Christians, and they have no direct taxes whatever levied upon them.

Mahomed Ali Pacha is a truly great man: he came to Egypt many years ago as a mere soldier of fortune; he subsequently was created a Bey; from that station he rose to be Pacha of Cairo, and in the end rendered himself so formidable that he was created Pacha of all Egypt. In this situation, he was not the man to sit down contented, but employed himself actively in commercial pursuits; he also sent to Europe for engineers and mechanics; he repaired and rebuilt the fortifications of Cairo and Alexandria; he purchased and built a fleet of frigates and sloops, all of which were destroyed at the battle of Navarin: he has since established a dock-yard and arsenal, and has built at Alexandria as fine a fleet as any in the world of the same number, under the direction of a French ship-builder, who was sent for by the pacha from France, and whom he now treats with great distinction.

Within the last few years only he has organized that army which has so lately astonished all Europe. He has a regularly organized artillery, a corps of lancers, some very fine light cavalry, and an efficient rocket brigade. Indeed, the Pacha is so rapidly advancing in importance and power, that it is contemplated he will soon prove an opponent that Russia, with all her gigantic power, will find it no trifle to cope with. His son, Ibrahim Pacha, is in every respect a soldier, and is said to

« AnteriorContinuar »