"Having practically completed the exploration of Franz Josef Land, with the exception of some odd corners, we left Cape Flora on Aug. 6. It was toward evening when we sailed, and before leaving I carefully sealed up Elmwood, which had been our home for three years. With the exception of our luggage, specimens, etc., we left Elmwood just as it had been during our stay. The windows were carefully boarded and nailed up, the door, to which I fastened a Union Jack, was carefully protected by two spars, and a flag was left floating on the pole at Flagstaff Point. I also left behind, for the use of subsequent explorers, six tons of coal and any thing that I considered might be useful. In the room of our living house I left a quantity of supplies, in case Andrée should turn up in that region. Of course I did not know of the safety of the Fram until the arrival of the Windward,' and I had established a depot on Bell island in Leigh Smith's old house, in case any of Nansen's companions should have gone in that direction. This contains a good supply of provisions, and can be easily found, the house being on a prominent part of the island. After leaving Elmwood we steamed northwest for 50 miles, but saw no indication of land. The water was very open, and there was less ice than I had ever seen before. We landed at Cape Mary Harmsworth for a few hours, and collected some specimens from a low spit projecting beyond the ice-covered cape. This was done with the object of refuting or confirming the opinion I had formed in the spring that Gillis Land has no existence in the position assigned to it on the charts. We then steamed within 10 miles of the situation given for the east coast of the eastern Johannesen island in very clear weather, but failed to see any land. South of Bear island we met with bad weather, but, thanks to the skillful navigation of Capt. Brown and the stanch little Windward,' we have reached home safely."

Speaking of the work of the expedition since the departure last year of the Windward' with Dr. Nansen, Mr. Jackson said:

"We passed the winter (1896-'97) very busily, happily, and comfortably. Scientific observations and researches of all kinds were conducted to the utmost extent. The winter was less severe and less windy than usual. On March 16 Mr. Armitage and I left with sledges and two teams, consisting of the pony and 13 dogs, to go round western Franz Josef Land and define its limits. We met with bad weather at the very outset, and found the snow lying deep and soft, with very trappy, rough ice on the western side of the British Channel, up which we laid our course. On March 28 we discovered a new headland and fjord, and on the 29th we rounded the northeast extremity of the western land and proceeded west, having explored all the western shores of the British Channel to the Queen Victoria Sea. The weather continued exceedingly bad, with almost constant gales and driving snow, and with temperatures often more than 40 below zero, which played havoc with our animals. On

April 7 we had lost all but 5 dogs when north of the head of Cambridge Bay, and on the 10th were forced to take to the high glaciated land, as open water up to the glacier face cut off all advance upon sea ice. On the 12th our pony died, which necessitated leaving behind all equipment not absolutely essential. The weather, at an altitude of 1,500 feet, now grew worse than ever, with exceedingly dense and constant mist, in addition to gales and driving snow. On the 19th we descended the high glaciated land behind Cape Mary Harmsworth (the land does not extend west of the point, and no land could be seen during the short, clear intervals anywhere off the coast) from an altitude of 1,500 feet. We crossed over behind Cape Lofley, as the sea ice was broken up all along the coast, and kept us on the glacier, and found a little fast ice at the head of Weyprecht Bay, stretching toward Cape Ludlow. On approaching the cape we again met open water, which obliged us to climb the high glaciated land behind the cape. In Weyprecht Bay we left a canoe behind, as we could not get along with it, owing to the badness of the ice. The weather continued excessively bad, and gales gave us no rest. Above Cape Ludlow I shot the only bear we had seen, which supplied us with meat and blubber for cooking. On April 29 we rounded Cape Neale. We encountered exceedingly rough ice crushed up against the land. To get along at all, we had to avail ourselves of every minute of fine weather offered to us, and frequently marched for twenty-four hours at a stretch, marching from the time one gale ceased until another began.

"The rough ice of the sea and the steep inclines of the glaciers forced us for a great part of the journey to go three times over the same ground. On May 3 we crossed Gray Bay, but on approaching Cape Grant we were again cut off by open water and had to climb the steep glacier behind, hauling our sledges with a purchase up the glacier face (45 feet) aided by a snow drift, and descended at the head of the bay to the west of Cape Stephen. On May 5 we reached Bell island, where we were met by Dr. Köttlitz and Messrs. Bruce and Wilton, who had brought a sledge with provisions to look for us, and had got anxious, as we were nearly a fortnight overdue.

"This journey was successful in every way, but had occupied two months. We had only thirteen and a half fine days. After staying at Elmwood for ten days to refit, Mr. Armitage and I started off east, taking with us, however, no canoe or boat, as we could not carry it and go along rapidly. We covered 21 miles the first day, but on the second, when nearing Cape Cecil Harmsworth (southeast extreme of Hooker island), the ice became very thin, and when within 400 yards of the cape the sledge broke through, and in spite of our utmost endeavors we lost all our provisions and dog meat except the food which we had kept for lunch, and all our cartridges were wetted. As we could not reach the shore, owing to the very thin ice, we retraced our steps and tried to approach Hooker island, farther to the west, with the intention of crossing the glacier to Cape Cecil Harmsworth, to ascend it and map in the neighborhood of Brady island from there. But whenever we approached Hooker island very thin ice stopped us, and, our advance east also being cut off, we returned. Open water was visible in many directions, and the ice generally was remarkably thin. Owing to the

the cry came from, as their boat was small and the sea was rough; and the captain who picked them up thought the noise came from a bird. On their report a relief ship was sent out under Paul Bjorvig, but it returned Nov. 20, having found no traces of the explorer. The supposition is that the cries came from birds, and that the object seen was a dead whale.

Dr. Nansen's story of his adventures appeared this year in "Farthest North," a book in two volumes with photogravure illustrations and maps; and the explorer has lectured to large audiences in Great Britain and America. Dr. Nansen has asked permission to name the Siberian peninsula, discovered by him, after King Oscar of Sweden. The King and the Russian authorities have given their

consent.

In a lecture at Christiania, Dr. Nansen said the best course for another expedition would be through Bering Straits in a northerly and northeasterly direction. The explorers could then drift in the ice with the current, which would bring them out on the coast of Greenland.

The Cullum geographical medal, instituted by Gen. George W. Cullum, late vice-president of the American Geographical Society, was conferred in January on Lieut. Robert E. Peary, in recognition of his services in arctic exploration. Lieut. Peary made a voyage to North Greenland in the summer to establish a settlement there to be used as a base of supplies for an expedition in 1898. Of the result of this he said:

"What I consider the most important discovery was my finding of the relics of Greely's expedition. These I found on Cape Sabine. We touched Meteoric island on Aug. 30, and proceeded to get the meteorite which we had discovered before on board the Hope.' It was just large enough to go into the hold. It measured 12 by 8 feet, and weighed 100 tons. It is a beautiful specimen; in fact, the best I ever saw. I have tested it, and I find that the composition is almost similar to that used in plate armor on United States war ships. It looks like nickeled steel."

The story of Sir Martin Conway's expedition, noted last year, has been published this year in his book "The First Crossing of Spitzbergen."

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Antarctic Regions.-An expedition sailed from Antwerp Aug. 16 for antarctica. It is under the lead of Capt. Adrien de Gerlache. Its object is to penetrate those waters of antarctica which have hitherto proved impenetrable to the unsuitable craft that endeavored to navigate them, chart the coast line, if any is found, effect a landing at Cape Adare, where a house and observatory will be erected and left in charge of officers and men, who will traverse the ice cap or interior of the continent as far as possible, endeavor to discover the true position of the south magnetic pole, and make constant records of the climatic, magnetic, and astronomical conditions. For this purpose the steam whaler Belgica" will, after completing her coal supply at Punta Arenas, touch at Graham's Land and work through Waddell Sea to Enderby Land, continuing her way along the shores of Wilkes Land to Cape Adare, in Victoria Land, where the shore-going party will land and winter, the " Belgica" herself, unless compelled by circumstances to remain, proceeding to Melbourne for a time, returning in the following year either to reship or revictual the explorers at Cape Adare. The expedition arrived at Rio Janeiro Oct. 22, and was joined by Dr. Cook, who was one of the scientists of Lieut. Peary's party. North America. An examination of the Noddawai river system was made in 1896 by Dr. Robert Bell, of the Canadian Survey, who discovered hitherto unknown river. The Noddawai flows into the southeastern part of James bay. It has its rise VOL. XXXVII-22 A

a

in Mattagami lake, into which the Megiskun or Bell river flows from the south, and the Waswanipi from the east. The territory drained by the system is a kind of plateau broken by isolated hill ridges, and has a large number of lakes. Dr. Bell thinks the region favorable for settlers, as the soil and climate are suitable for all ordinary crops, espe cially for wheat. The Indians met with were semicivilized.

An ascent of Mount St. Elias was made, July 30, by Prince Louis Amadeus, of Savoy, and several of his countrymen. The details and results of the expedition are reported as follows:

"After six days' travel, Malaspina glacier was reached. Although but 20 miles wide, this glacier occupied four days in crossing. For two days a heavy fog enshrouded everything, and the party were compelled to rely on their compasses for their direction. They were then at the foot of Seward glacier, and they were obliged to journey about 12 miles until an available spot was found to cross the field of ice. Crossing the glacier, they came to Dome pass, and from here the descent of 2 miles was made to Agassiz glacier slowly. The party then proceeded up Agassiz glacier to a point where the Mount Newton glacier joins the divide at the foot of Mount St. Elias. This glacier at the foot of Mount Newton is, in the opinion of all mountaineers who have seen it, the roughest in the world. From this point no one was allowed to march alone, all being securely attached to one another with ropes. Here the American members of Prince Louis's party were left, and they formed a camp to await the return of the mountain climbers.

"The ascent of Mount St. Elias began on Friday, July 30, and after several hours' hard climbing the party arrived at the top of the divide. Here a tent was pitched. Then the ascent began again, and in four hours from the divide they were on the most lofty peak of the mountain. About two hours were spent on the peak, and during this time much was done. Some members of the party took scientific observations. The photographer took many pictures from the summit, all of which, together with data secured, will be submitted in a report to the Alpine Club. The expedition has fixed the altitude of Mount St. Elias at 18,100 feet. The figures are subject only to such slight correction as may change the total 30 or 40 feet either way. The expedition has also answered in the negative the question whether St. Elias was at one time a volcano. There is not the slightest indication of volcanic action anywhere. A new glacier was discovered between the Augusta mountains and Great Logan. It takes its course apparently to the sea, and was named 'Colombo,'

One of the party that went part of the way up the mountain described a wonderful mirage seen from the Malaspina glacier. "It was about sunrise," he said, "and I was looking around at the mountains in their rugged grandeur and the sky with its limitless sea of light blue. Mount St. Elias, Mount Newcomb, Mount Augusta, and Mount Cook, the Seward, the Marvib or Mervin, the Pinnacle, and Agassiz glaciers lay before our enchanted eyes. I looked to the north, and was thunderstruck to behold a city, apparently resting on a ridge which is an extension from the west side of massive Mount St. Elias. Every detail of streets and buildings was plainly visible. I called the attention of my companions to the strange sight, and found that they saw everything exactly as I saw it. The mirage, for such it must have been, lasted from 2.45 in the morning until 4.20. It began to disappear at 4.15, and required five minutes to disappear.'

Utmost Source of Missouri River.--Hydrographic and topographic surveys and explorations

in the main range of the Rocky mountains, the final results of which were published in 1897, have been conducted by Jacob V. Brower at the head waters of Missouri river, incidental to the computation of the length of the longest continuous stream of water in the world that maintains perennial flowage. In the Centennial valley, Madison County, Montana, are two small bodies of water known as Upper and Lower Red Rock lakes. These lakes are in low depressions in the upper portion of the valley, which formerly constituted a glacial lake bed, drained at the most northwestern limit. From the Three Forks, decided by Lewis and Clark in 1805 to be the initiation of the main channel of the Missouri, at the confluence of the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin forks, the principal stream was found to be continuous and uninterrupted, except by artificial irrigation, up the channel of Jefferson fork. By what ought to be considered an erroneously adopted rule in hydrographic nomenclature, the stream again changes its name to Beaver Head river near the point where it passes Beaver Head Rock, likewise again changing its name to Red Rock river near the point where it flows past a picturesque red butte. Following this as the direct and longest channel, explorations up its course led on to these Lower and Upper Red Rock lakes and to the channel of the brisk and sparkling mountain stream above those lakes which flows through the Alaska basin. Into this basin the main stream descends from a point near the crest of the main range of the Rocky mountains, through an eroded and rugged channel in Culver's Cañon. At the head of this cañon, twenty miles above Upper Red Rock Lake, is an amphitheatrical caldera, formed by volcanic walls and eroded declivities. Along these walls and declivities are perpetual snowbanks, which, melting in the summer sun, saturate the immense mountains to such an extent that perennial springs and streamlets send forth a constant supply of water, decreasing in winter and increasing in summer, supplied exclusively by secular precipitation.

The high elevations from 8,000 to 11,000 feet above the sea surrounding the Missourian caldera causes the melting snows to be resupplied every month in the year, the freshets beginning about the last of May and generally ending by Aug. 1. No person, except Indians, is known to have penetrated to this utmost source of Missouri river previous to this discovery, Aug, 28, 1895. It was ascertained by Mr. Brower, who again ascended the mountains to the caldera in July, 1897, that a village had been maintained there, at an elevation of 9,000 feet above the sea, in prehistoric times, as shown by the discovery of numerous flint and obsidian spearheads, arrow points, spalls, and other stone utensils. An extensive fossiliferous deposit was also discovered at the same place, in contact with limestone, identifiable as Phillipsia tuberculata, Productus cora, etc. The total length of the river channel is as follows: Missourian caldera to Three Forks, 398 miles; thence to Mississippi river, 2,547 miles; thence to the Gulf of Mexico, 1,276 miles; longest river channel in the world, 4,221 miles.

Quivira. The remarkable march of the forces under Francisco Vasquez Coronado from Compostela, Mexico, to a termination at the province of Quivira, 1540-'42, where were situated about 25 villages of barbarous Indians, living upon the flesh and blood of the buffalo, has from time to time received the careful attention of historians and geographical writers, who have been perplexed in identifying the locality of Quivira. Gen. J. H. Simpson, Adolph F. Bandelier. and George Parker Winship have severally traced Coronado to a cross

ing of the Arkansas river, and thence northeastwardly to portions of Kansas. In March, 1897, Jacob V. Brower explored the region along both sides of Kansas river to the lower waters of Smoky Hill river, from 100 to 150 miles northeastwardly from Great Bend, and definitely located more than thirty old Indian village sites near extensive chert quarries, where were made flint implements of war and arms of the chase. These Indian village sites are almost exactly comparable with the descriptions left by Coronado and his chroniclers, and as they are situated favorably to the most certainly determined line of march at its termination. there is little doubt that the definite location of the village sites of the province of Quivira have been finally discovered and ascertained. Several thousand flint tomahawks, spearheads, and arrow points have been recovered from the village sites described in the report of the exploration.

South America.-An ascent of Mount Aconcagua, believed to be the highest peak of the Chilian Andes, was made in January by an expedition from the Royal Geographical Society, headed by Mr. E. A. Fitzgerald. They entered the Horocones valley, where, at a height of 12,500 feet, a camp was pitched on Jan. 7. Another camp was established at a height of 14,000 feet, from which the actual ascent began. At the height of 18,000 feet it was decided to plant on the side of Aconcagua the last camp. On Jan. 15 Mr. Fitzgerald, accompanied by the chief guide, Matthias Zurbriggen, set out for the summit, but found himself unable to proceed. The guide went on alone, and in the afternoon reached the highest summit. Almost a month later, Feb. 13, Mr. Vines also reached the top, after a journey of nine hours, starting from the camp at 8 o'clock in the morning and arriving at the summit at 5 in the afternoon. Explaining the difficulties which he had to overcome, Mr. Vines said that every 4 or 5 metres he was compelled to stoop down on all fours and wait two or three minutes to recover his breath. This was the only mode of ascent possible at such an altitude. The summit was found to be flat, having an area of 60 square metres. The Pacific Ocean from that height, 23,000 feet, resembled, in the words of the explorers, a vast unruffled pond; while in the afternoon, when the sun shone in the west, the ocean appeared like an immense conflagration. Mr. Vines studied the geological structure of the mountain. The hillside, he said, is porphyritic and has a thick covering of argillaceous earth, which can not sustain vegetation. The south side is broken up into peaks. Mr. Vines also ascended Mount Tupungato and another mountain unnamed, about 19,000 feet high. Tupungato is volcanic, but Aconcagua is not.

Drs. Steffen and Dusen, O. von Fischer, and others spent January to May in an excursion for exploring the Chilian river Aisen. It flows to the sea through a broad estuary in about 45° 20′ south latitude, entering the channel that runs behind the Chonos archipelago, and is formed by two branches, the smaller from the east, the larger from the northwest and springing from a fine glacier between the Aisen and Lake Fontana.

The expedition that was sent in February, 1896, by Princeton University, under the control of Prof. Scott, of the United States Geological Survey, to explore Patagonia, returned in August, 1897. From the port of Gallegos, on the eastern coast, investigations were conducted as far northward as Port Desire, and southward to Sandy Point in the Straits of Magellan. The expedition went into the interior, where many new glaciers and water courses were discovered. Many plants and animals new to science were collected, while the information obtained relating to geological phenomena was of the

greatest value. Numerous volcanic cones, hitherto unreported, were discovered. After a little more than a year had been passed on the mainland the expedition proceeded to Tierra del Fuego and the adjoining islands, where collections were made and observations were taken of the geology and palæontology of the islands. The collection secured by the expedition comprises a nearly complete series of mosses and flowering plants, 800 skins and skeletons of recent birds and mammals, and 8 tons of fossils, including more than 1,000 skulls and many nearly complete skeletons.

Asia. The researches of Dr. Sven Hedin, a Swedish explorer, in Asia resulted in many discoveries, not only in geography, but in archæology, geology, and ethnography. His travels occupied nearly four years. The following summary is from the London "News":

"The explorer started at the beginning of 1894 for the Pamir military post in Kashgaria, and four times in the course of the ensuing summer made the ascent of the Mustagh Ata, one of the highest summits in the Pamirs. He reached an altitude of 20,000 feet. The mass of the mountain is composed of gneiss and crystalline schist.

During the autumn of the same year the traveler proceeded in the direction of Lake Teschil-Kul to explore it and also the Alid-Schur mountain range. In February, 1895, Sven Hedin set out to cross the Takla Makhan desert, which had never been explored, even by natives. His object was to observe the sand hills in that region, which rise sometimes to a height of 100 feet. The complete dearth of vegetation and water rendered this journey very arduous and dangerous, inasmuch as instead of taking enough water for ten days he only took four days' supply. On his way across the desert he lost several of his men, his camels, and a number of scientific instruments, including his photographic apparatus. Eventually he had to return to Kashgar by way of Ansou to obtain a fresh supply of provisions. Pending the arrival of new apparatus and instruments, which could not reach him for three months, Sven Hedin explored the source of the Amu-Daria and the Hindu-Kush range. In December, 1895, he left Kashgar for the last time, traveling by way of Khotan toward Lake Lob Nor and traversing another desert 300 kilometres across. During this journey, which occupied four months and a half, Sven Hedin discovered the remains of two ancient towns and the ruins of Buddhist monuments. Proceeding as far as the Keria-Daria river, he ascertained that this stream ran as far as 39° 30′ north. He found in that region a tribe of halfsavage shepherds unknown even to the Chinese. Pushing on to the Chinese town of Koreia, along the banks of the river Tarim, Sven Hedin reached the Chinese or northern part of Lake Lob Nor, which Prjevalsky was unable to discover, apparently because this lake empties itself, whenever there is an abundance of water, into its southern portion, the only one seen by the Russian explorer. Farther on the Swedish traveler followed up the course of the Kutcha-Daria river, which flows into the northern part of Lob Nor and connects a whole series of oblong lakes, the more northerly of which had not been discovered.

From Lob Nor Sven Hedin, in the spring of 1896, came back to Khotan via Tcherien, Kipa, Nia, and Keria, and then returned to Keria in order to undertake a journey in northern Tibet. During the expedition the explorer discovered a lofty mountain range, whose highest peak rose about 24.000 feet, which was named Mount Oscar. He also found in this region 23 salt-water lakes. During the two months the expedition lasted not a single human being was met with. Sven Hedin then proceeded,

via Tsaidam, Kahu Nor, Sinin-Fu, Lian-Tchu, the deserts of Alia-Schan and Ordos, to Pekin, which city he reached March 14, 1897, across northern China. The expedition, the cost of which was defrayed by the King of Sweden, Mr. Nobel, and several other rich Swedish gentlemen, was the means of securing botanical, geological, and archæological collections (notably several Buddhist manuscripts found at Khotan) and about 500 sheets of topographical plans, as well as a large number of photographs.

A letter was received in October from Henry Savage Landor, who has just reached the frontier of India after an unsuccessful attempt to make his way into Lhasa, the Tibetan capital. Mr. Landor, who is an artist and writer besides being an explorer, says that he has had a wonderful journey, but had some terrible experiences in Tibet. Of 30 men who set out with him, 28 abandoned him a few days after they had crossed the frontier of Tibet. Mr. Landor proceeded for 56 marches with only one bearer and a sick coolie. He lost all his provisions, and then the Tibetans, by an act of treachery, made him and his men prisoners. They were put in chains and sentenced to death. The bearer was cruelly flogged, and Mr. Landor was brought to the execution ground. The Tibetans decided to behead him. A man held Mr. Landor by the hair, while another swung a long sword to right and left of his neck as a preliminary to the fatal blow. At the last moment the Grand Llama stopped the executioner and commuted the sentence to torture, which injured his spine, legs, feet, arms, and hands. Mr. Landor remained chained up for eight days, while his servants were kept in fetters and manacles for eighteen days. In the end the prisoners were released, and Mr. Landor is now in India, with 22 wounds."

M. Bogdanovitch, who has begun a tour of exploration in eastern Siberia, reports that the Samovoi mountains, which form 3 parallel chains, are rich in gold-bearing rocks, and that traces of gold are also found in the water courses.

A report from Mr. Bourne, of the British consular service, describes an extraordinary landslip on the banks of the upper Yangtse, creating a new and dangerous cataract, much the worst rapid in the Yangtse. All junks have to be emptied and their cargo carried at least half a mile. The rapid was formed on the night of Sept. 30, 1896, by a landslip after forty days of rain; and since then 100 junks and 1,000 men are said to have been lost. A block of ground, measuring 700 yards north and south by 400 yards east and west, has fallen from the slope of the mountain on the north bank, a distance of 150 yards, reducing the breadth of the river from 250 to 80 yards. The removal of this obstruction would probably present no great difficulties to a foreign engineer, but the Chinese are only making roads on both banks of the river out of Government funds and subscriptions of the trade guilds at Wanhsien and Chung-King, as if they regarded the rapid as permanent.

Africa. In a paper read to the Royal Geographical Society, An Expedition to the Sources of the Niger." Col. J. K. Trotter, who was the principal British officer of the Anglo-French Delimitation Commission appointed in 1895, said that practically nothing was previously known about the Niger sources. When, on Jan. 13, 1896, the commission reached the western watershed of the Niger, whence from an elevation of 3,280 feet they looked down upon the Tembi valley, their native guides considered their task ended. They declined to point out the source of the Tembi, declaring that it was the seat of the devil, whom they had no anxiety to meet, though they were devil