and sloping ground, but it is vain to expect good crops from either unless they are well drained; thorough drainage, either natural or artificial, being as essential here as on the farm. But the quality of soil, and the character of surface are not the only considerations in selecting a spot for the kitchen-garden; its position in relation to the house and the grounds in general is important. Let it be near the stables and hog-pens, the framing ground and the hotbeds, if there be proper ground in that neighborhood; but wherever located, let it be for convenience, and not for concealment, as is so often advised. There seems to be a general feeling that a kitchen-garden cannot be in harmony with ornamental grounds, and must, therefore, be removed from them, lest the sight of it mar our enjoyment of their beauty. Now it is not only a necessity, but it may be an ornament to every estate, as much as the lawn or the flower-garden. What though its arrangement be rectangular, while curves preponderate in the other grounds? the two are not necessarily at variance; the effect of each may be much heightened by the contrast which the other preThe love of the beautiful is often developed and the mind kept active and appreciative by the stimulus of judicious contrast, and a man of taste, who had avoided straight lines, sharp angles, and every thing like formality over the rest of his grounds, might well display all these in a kitchen-garden, as an expedient for increasing the enjoyment which he derives from the general grace and ease of the place. No better reason can be given for adopting such an arrangement in a kitchen-garden, and were it the only reason it would be sufficient, for I hold that convenience is a consideration secondary to beauty, and that this is the true order of motive in all cases where the means of a proprietor are large enough to justify him in gratifying his taste. sents. But this desire for contrast is not the only reason for adopting the rectangular arrangement. Where single rows of trees or espaliered fruit are to be grown, and where much of the culture will be on a scale large enough to employ a horse, the permanent lines should be straight, if possible; for curved or irregular boundaries are a great inconvenience when teams must be frequently driven or turned close to them. HOW TO LAY OUT A KITCHEN-GARDEN. preparation is the next question. The spot selected, its First for the level portion. Decide how many trees or grape vines you wish to have on espaliers, how many standard fruit trees, how many dwarfs, and then stake out, just 15 feet within the limits of the level portion, a walk, B, not less than 6 feet wide, and surrounding the square. The space between this path and the boundaries all round is for a border. From B, in the middle of each side of the square, carry in both directions a path also 6 feet wide; this will give four side entrances. Having staked out your paths, dig them out from 1 to 3 feet deep, and spread the earth on the adjoining ground. Now trench the remaining surface 2 feet deep (digging it over, the whole depth of a digging-fork, is the best course for those who cannot afford to trench); throw out every stone as large as an egg; collect these stones and empty them into the open paths, until they are filled within 6 inches of the adjoining surface. Then send a man with a small stone-hammer to lay these stones smooth, crowning them so that the middle of the 6 feet path may be at least 2 inches higher than its sides; as he does this let him break into fragments every stone larger than an English walnut, and thus smooth the surface still more thoroughly, and bind the whole well together. Over his work lay 3 inches of gravel-coarse, but free from large stones; as it is laid in heaps on the stones let a man rake it toward him, bringing along the stones which his rake takes out, and covering them with the fine gravel remaining behind. When all the gravel is laid, the surface of the path will be perfectly uniform; then roll it well to bind and harden the whole. Such a path will never be troubled with weeds. Having made the paths, estimate how long a range of espaliers is desirable; you can do this by multiplying the number of trees and vines to be grown on espaliers by 10; or, if your limits are confined, by 8 feet; espaliered fruit may be grown as near as this without danger of injuring the trees. If there be enough to surround the whole garden, begin at one corner and 6 feet from the boundary; set posts 9 feet long and at least 3 feet in diameter into the earth to the depth of 3 feet, and 8 feet apart, or fasten them by fasten to the bars, and perpendicular to them, strips one inch square and 6 inches apart; give the whole at least two coats of darkcolored mineral paint. If the amount of espaliers decided on is not enough to surround the whole garden, put them up on the north side first, then on the west, then east, last south. In our climate good fruit may be grown on espaliers facing the north. It will be well at this stage of proceedings to erect along the north and west sides a fence or screen of some kind against cold winds, unless the garden is sufficiently sheltered by high woods or land in the immediate vicinage, in which case a hedge will answer all purposes; make it of thorn if you wish to exclude vermin. An Evergreen hedge is best for beauty and warmth, and if you will have the kitchen-garden screened from observation, summer and winter, nothing but Evergreen or boards will answer your purpose; for a summer screen the espaliers and the foliage on them will be quite sufficient. Of course something more is necessary if you are exposed to thieves. The espaliers just described are cheap, and in the opinion of many are the best kind; others prefer iron and wire for material. They should be put up in all gardens where high cultivation is practised, as they give a large amount of fruit in proportion to the surface covered, without materially shading the ground. They may be made against the dead walls of buildings, garden walls, etc., and enable the cultivator to grow many rather tender kinds of fruit (even figs), the degree of success varying with the locality. By means of them Nectarines, Plums, and any fruit usually attacked by insects may be made an almost certain crop. Different kinds of insects are troublesome at different seasons, but none for more than a few weeks at a time, either at the flowering season, or during the formation or the ripening of fruit; and at these seasons espaliers may easily be covered with mosquito-netting, which, without excluding the sun, rain, or air, effectually shuts out all insects. Our espaliers are of several kinds. Those of iron are made as follows: Sink blocks of stone 2 or 3 feet into the earth, out of the reach of frost, as for the wooden espaliers, and 9 feet apart; set into each stone "uprights" of iron 14 inch square at the bottom, 6 feet long and tapering to the top; tie these "uprights" with top and bottom rails 2 inches wide, inch thick, and pierced so as to slide over both the upright posts, and the smaller uprights, which are 3 inch square and 8 inches apart, and of iron, as are also the rails. When completed, paint with a proper metallic paint. Such espaliers are very costly, and many think that the iron injures the trees by its excessive cold in winter and heat in summer. Wire, A, makes a better and cheaper espalier. Stones are sunk as before, but at the distance of 10 or 12 feet apart, and into them are set iron posts, 2 x inches thick, and 6 feet high; the corner posts are to be particularly well secured, so as to bear the strain necessary for tightening the wire. 2 feet from each corner post sink another stone, to which the corner posts are to be firmly braced. B A When all the posts are up, begin to strain the wire; a convenient and powerful instrument for this, may be made as follows: |