as the first marked sign of another faith, which, until we return to a Christian land, is to replace the sound of the church-going bell. Was unwell from a cold, and obliged to remain below deck. The Turkish passengers most interesting from their dresses.

30th. Sailed on the whole day, but from cold and rheumatic feeling could not go upon deck; was obliged to stay below making such drawings as I could. At night anchored at Nicopolis.

1st Oct. To-day felt somewhat better, though still inactive; but about 11 o'clock, coming to Rustchuk, where the steamer had to stay an hour to take in coals, went ashore with Mr. Woodburn, Mr. Repton, and others. Saw numbers of people; splendid costumes - splendid even when in dirt and rags; looked to see if these were women; saw one or two, and female children still but few. Went up a winding lane into the town; and when I remember the wonder a new place and people presents, yet I must allow this exceeded in wonder all I had seen; but it was greatly the wonder of disappointment—that the domicile of the Turk should be so inferior to the splendour of his attire. We came to what appeared an inn, through which we walked to a street, or bazaar, roofed over, with shops on each side: they were open, without windows. At first it seemed as if all were deserted; but on looking, each shop had an attendant, sometimes at work, and sometimes asleep; but nothing could be more homely; the booths at a fair could not be less fitted than they were; nothing could be more untidy than the shop, even where the articles, such as shoes, slippers, or stockings, were excellent. The

haberdashery goods looked showy, and, as I thought, English. We went into a coffee-house and had a cup of coffee: it was good, but the appointments of the room were singular and homely at the entrance.

TO THOMAS WILKIE.

Constantinople, 2d Oct. 1840.

No one can see the Turks, an Asiatic people, without being more struck with them than with the sight of any people merely foreign. Their dress and appearance are not so new to me as their towns, villages, and houses: these are far inferior to their dresses, and, with their mosques and towns, are not worthy of them. On passing through their territory on the Danube, we saw the town and fortress of Illistria, celebrated for resisting the whole Russian army in the last invasion. Illistria seems, both in buildings and walls, a most inferior town, commanded by the heights all round; and on one of the outer bastions we saw that the cannon was absolutely upheld by wicker-work. They allege that the Russians were most inexpert, or it could not have resisted at all. The Argus steamer did not bring us lower on the Danube than Charnevoda, a point far short of Gallatz, but which is made a station, because it comes within forty miles of the Black Sea, at Constantia, a passage indeed that would be most favourable for a canal. We sallied forth into the village, where the only passable house was one built for the Navigation Company. We were five in number; and as we sauntered among the houses, we tried to enter,

but found no encouragement; on the contrary, were assailed by a number of wolf-like dogs, barking most intolerably. A shower coming on, we took shelter under the thatch-awning of a cottage; but we found that an alarm was given from within, by a Turkish woman running and screaming for assistance, upon which the dogs became more furious than ever; and as the panic seemed to spread, by some more of the secluded ladies coming forth, we were compelled to make a retreat. In our retreat we were followed by a bevy of dogs until, getting provided with large stones, we drew off by pelting them back to their homes. One of our party made another inroad, but with the same result, for the secluded maids were seen flying from the unhallowed gaze of the intruders. shutting up of the women from all intercourse with the world, and the muffled up appearance of their dress, make a repulsive feature in the character of this remarkable people. On our way to Konstanjez we were agreeably surprised by seeing a Turkish fair— an encampment of at least 2000 people, in booths and tents, away from all houses, and where every kind of manufacture was to be sold to buyers apparently of all nations—as striking an assemblage as any stranger could witness.

This

On the evening of Sunday, the 4th, we entered the Bosphorus, and cast anchor opposite the palace of the Sultan, and next morning saw Constantinople by daylight, in all her glory.

Our party, on landing, were conducted up an eminence to Pera, to the hotel of Madame Vitalia lodging-house. Mr. Woodburn and Mr. Miles were

accommodated in the hotel, whilst Mr. Repton and I were lodged in a quiet dwelling hard by-all of us dining at the hotel. Of course every thing we saw was a wonder—the streets, houses, and roads, dilapidated, yet crowded with people; nothing clean or tidy, all bustle, hurry, and business; yet no appearance of wealth, all living as if from hand to mouth, with dresses splendid and dwellings wretched, still recalling, in all their doings, a race and a time from which civilisation had sprung.

JOURNAL, continued.

D. W.

Oct. 5th. Went with Mr. Miles and Mr. Repton, and had a Turkish bath, but did not like it at all.

6th. Walked through the suburb below Pera, Tophanna. Saw at the outer court of a mosque a scribe of most venerable appearance. He was reading a letter or paper he had been writing for two Turkish young women-one very handsome: the way they were placed made an excellent composition for a picture.*

7th. Went to Constantinople-saw the Bazaar— mean in condition, though rich in material for study: walked to the market of slaves-was much interested with their appearance; the chief were young black women; some whites were shut up.

*Wilkie's fine, though unfinished, picture of this interesting little group was bought at the Wilkie sale, by Lord Charles Townshend, for 425 guineas. As a piece of colour, it is as rich as Rembrandt or Correggio. The price that Sir David put upon it at Constantinople was, as Mr. Woodburn informs me, 350 guineas.

TO GEORGE YOUNG, ESQ.

My dear Mr. Young,

Constantinople, 7th Oct. 1840.

By a letter waiting me here from Helen, I was much shocked and grieved to learn of the great afflic tion that has befallen you in the unexpected demise of your most dear and excellent lady, Mrs. Young. There are many circumstances that must give to this dispensation a character of extreme severity, both to yourself and to her own most esteemed family. These it will indeed require an effort to sustain, which even the sympathy of friends can but little help you in. To us, who have known her so long, and have also had the gratification of her friendship and society, the loss is great; while, with me, there is this additional cause of sorrow, that one of my recent occupations was undertaken as a work that might have contributed to her pleasure and satisfaction.

In this change to all your thoughts and ideas, let me advise you to take care particularly of your health. The claims left upon you, especially the infant girl that has survived, demand this. Accept my sincere sympathy, and also offer my most respectful condolence to Mr. and Mrs. Fisher, and to the ladies and gentlemen of that family, who have so much cause to grieve for this irreparable loss.

In this most strange, passing strange, land, Mr. Woodburn and myself often recur with pleasure to the feelings and sympathies of the kind friends we