I.

(Maidens' Walk), by the side of this piece of CHAP. water, is much frequented during summer'; and the moving scene exhibited by parties of pleasure, in gondolas, resembles the appearance of the Birket il Ezbequie at Grand Caïro, during the period of the Nile's inundation. Near this lake there was a small prison, in which Napper Tandy was confined. We saw him, at a distance, looking through one of the windows, wearing upon his head one of the red night-caps of the French republicans. The view of the lake, covered with boats, and of the crowded public walk, under an avenue of trees upon its banks, is best calculated to give an idea of the population and wealth of the inhabitants. It is about two miles in circumference'. There are, in fact, two

(1) The Cossacks, ou entering this city in 1815, littered their horses' beds under the trees of the Jungfernsteig, even though the weather was extremely cold and wet; hereby avoiding all chance of catching the disorders which had been previously so mortal among the French troops.

(2) It contained, however, 454 prisoners, in November 1790. Voyage de Deux Français, tom. I. p. 156. Paris, 1796.

(3) The Baron de Riesbeck makes its circumference less than eight hundred paces: (Trav. through Germ. vol. III. p. 78. Lond. 1787); though he evidently speaks here of the first basin, the only one seen from the Jungfernsteig, unless from the higher windows of the opposite houses; especially when the French made the inner line of circumvallation so perfectly secure, by fortifying the bridge or sluice from one neck of land to the other, by which the ramparts are continued entire from the Dam Thor to the Stein Thor: but the authors of the Voyage au · Nord de Deux Français observe, "Il faudroit plus de trois quarts d'heure pour faire le tour de cette espèce de lac." Voyage, tom. I. p.144. VOL. IX.

-D

I.

Church of

CHAP, lakes. The best prospect of them, and of their relative position, with regard to the city, is presented from the cupola of the Church of St. St. Michael Michael, standing upon the highest ground in Hamburgh. This building is the largest pile of brick-work we had ever seen. Its interior, plain and spacious, is forty-four yards in diameter. We ascended to the upper gallery of the cupola, by which we were enabled to survey the situation of the city. It is placed at the confluence of the Alster and the Elbe. The old town occupied the point of land between the two rivers. The two basins formed by the Alster are both in the northern part of the city. The inundations caused by the Elbe are sometimes attended with great damage; but the most humane regulations are established, for the relief of the sufferers, whenever this takes place. There is no city in Europe where more pains have been bestowed, to provide for the wants of its inhabitants. Beggars Orphans. are never seen in the streets. The Asylum for Orphans contains from five to six hun

Asylumfor18100 * & **

drede children, who are maintained and educated at the public expense, by voluntary contributions; and in such a manner, as to make them regret the loss they sustain, when

they quit the asylum to earn a livelihood for themselves1.

I.

of Ham

We have little more to add respecting Hamburgh. They who wish for a precise account of Commerce its immense commerce, may consult a work burgh. already cited, in which every article of its importation is specifically detailed. Its exports consist of timber, wool, lead, and corn. The average number of ships that annually enter this port amounts to twelve or thirteen hundreds. Many French families, residing in their own country, send to Hamburgh for the wines which they have originally exported thither; especially Claret, giving to this wine a preference in consequence of the voyage it has made. It is from Hamburgh that almost all the north of Europe is supplied with merchandize; especially sugar, of which article alone no less than thirty-six thousand hogsheads are annually

(1) The French converted the Asylum for Orphans into a temporary hospital; where fever raged to such a degree on one occasion, that some workmen who were employed to make holes in the side of the building towards the Admiralität Strasse, for the better ventilation of the wards, were killed by the contagious effluvia; either on the spot, or soon afterwards, covered with petechiæ.

(2) Voyage de Deux Français, tom. I. p. 172.

(3) The number of vessels that entered Hamburgh during the year 1816, was 1615 of these, 702 were from England. The number of ships which passed the Sound during the same year was 3871: of these, 1818 were British.

CHAP.

I.

imported. The inhabitants consume a prodi→ gious quantity of coffee, drinking this beverage at all hours of the day. Notwithstanding their luxurious lives, an Englishman, at least, would say, there is one luxury to which the Hamburghers are strangers; namely, a comfortable bed. Such is the force of habit, that what would not be endured an instant in our country, is universal here, and in many other parts of Germany; this is, a method of constructing their bedsteads, so that the shortest person cannot stretch himself at his whole length. It is the first inconvenience of which our countrymen complain, in visiting Germany. In many of the towns upon the Rhine, as Cologne, Bonn, Coblentz, &c. a traveller finds the bed, which is prepared for his repose, open at the feet as well as at the head; and when he asks the reason of this strange custom, he is told that the "German gentlemen go to bed in their boots."

CHAP. IIe

HAMBURGH TO COPENHAGEN.

Mode of travelling from Hamburgh-Wansbeck and Schoenberg-Tutelary Storks-Abomination in which they were held among the Hebrews-Old Teutonick Well-Approach to Lubeck-Pleasing appearance of the town-Port of Lubeck-Lagnus Sinus-Cathedral -Antient Pictures - Curious Clock-work-General aspect of the houses-Dress of the Females-Execrable Roads of Holstein-Condition of the Peasants-Lakes -Singular structure of the Houses-Interior of an Inn -Concert of Frogs-Situation of Eutin-Cleanliness of the Inhabitants-Pruz- Kiel-Visible alteration in the features of the people-Curiosities of Kiel-State of Literature-Public Gardens-Roman origin of clipping

Trees