X.

CHAP. as if its inmates had very recently quitted it. We called loudly for its owners, in Swedish, in Finnish, and in the Lapland language; but no one appeared. This being the case, we entered into complete possession of the tenement. Choosing for our bed-room the dairy, as being the coolest place, we removed all the milk-tubs, the butter-casks, cheese, &c.; and pitching our portable beds, covered each with a sheet, like a little tent. At this moment, one of the servants, strolling about, discovered a bed in an out-house, which was still warm. Being convinced that some person had very lately left it, he searched every corner of the place; and at last, behind a door, found two wretched figures, a man and a woman, naked and trembling, who, frightened almost to death by our coming, had thus concealed themselves. With great difficulty they were persuaded that no harm would happen to them; and at last coming to the room where we all slept, a little tobacco and a little brandy restored them to the utmost tranquillity..

Appearance of the Muo

July 24. We left Kaaresuando, for Enontekis ni towards at the source of the Muonio. As we drew nigh its source. to the lake whence this river issues, instead of

becoming contracted and narrow, it seemed to expand, and exhibit a wider surface. We ascended several rapids; and about seven English

CHAP.

X.

miles from Kaaresuando, entered a spacious and noble piece of water, surrounded by mountains, with others yet more distant, of greater magnitude than any we had yet seen. This was, in fact, the Alpine barrier between Finmark and Lapmark. From its summit, rivers pour down towards the Icy Sea on one side, and towards the Gulph of Bothnia on the other. The most remarkable thing is, that a lake exists upon this barrier so exactly situate upon its utmost level, that a river flowing out of its southern extremity falls into the Gulph of Bothnia, and another river flowing out of its northern extremity falls into the Icy Sea; both these rivers issuing from the Scandina same lake; thereby insulating the whole of Scandinavia; which, owing to this circumstance, is entirely surrounded by water. We shall offer further confirmation of this remarkable fact, in the sequel. Presently, the log-houses and wooden Enontekis. church of ENONTEKIS appeared upon our right, covering an eminence upon the eastern side of the river; the church occupying the highest point, the Minister's house being at the foot of the hill to the north, and a sweep of empty log-houses extending the whole way from the top of the hill to the water-side. These buildings belong either to the Torneå merchants, who come hither during the fair; or to the Laplanders, who occasionally

via insu

lated.

CHAP. resort to hear Divine Service and to receive the X. Sacrament, or who attend the annual fair held here in the month of February. At first sight, Enontekis appeared a place of more importance than any we had seen since we left Torneå: but we were told that all the buildings were destitute of inhabitants, with the exception of the Parsonage-house; and another, belonging to the Minister's brother, who is Præfect or Magistrate, and also a sort of tax-gatherer for the Crown.

CHAP. XI.

ENONTEKIS, AT THE SOURCE OF THE MUONIO. Interview with the Minister-his literary attainments→→→ Expedition to view the Midnight Sun-its Elevation above the Horizon during the Summer Solstice-Culi nary Plants-Game-Etymology of the names of places -Notice respecting an Air-Balloon-Diet at the Mi nister's Table-Singular instance of etiquette-Cloudberries-their medical virtues-Balloon-Soil of Enon

tekis-Agriculture-Inhabitants-Languages-Houses -Means of subsistence- Fisheries-Produce of the

Forests

Forests-Manufactures Latitude and LongitudeCattle-Colonists-Annual Fair-Commodities Population-Diseases-Remedies-Climate-Aurora Bore alis-Map of the Country-Arrival of the Laplanders Extraordinary proposal made to the Author-Description of a Male and Female Lapp-Offerings made to the Minister-Source of the Muonio-Tea-water-Church Congregation-Harangue of the Pastor-Attempt to launch the Balloon-cause of failure-ultimate success — effect produced by the exhibition-Joy expressed by the Natives beholding a Paper-Kite-Statistical Account of the Lapps-Number of Families-Name given to their Country Incursions of the Wolves-Practice of burying Treasure-Marriages-Support of the Poor-RaidsChild-birth-Dram-drinking-Heathen Superstitions— Divining-Drum-Manufactures-Science-Daily Food -Dress-Hunting-Rein-deer-Lichen rangiferinus→ Animals of Lapland- Birds-Meteorological Observations.

CHAP. WE had no sooner landed, and were proceed

XI.

Interview

with the Minister.

ing towards the dwelling of the Minister, than we perceived this reverend missionary coming towards us, followed by half-a-dozen dogs and two tame pigs: he was dressed in a long frock of black bombazeen reaching to his feet, and advanced smoking his tobacco-pipe. The tobacco-pipe, throughout this country, is never laid aside, except during meals: it is even used by women. Mr. Pipping introduced him to us, by