It can be planted the same way in the cellar, but it is likely to rot unless kept cool and dry.

Another way of planting, inferior to the above, but still good, is to select a row that runs north and south. Dig the rest of the Celery, and bring it to this row. Take the plants which have been dug, and lay them closely against the unbroken row, planting the roots a little way in the ground. Having laid one row on each side the ridge, cover slightly with sand, or dry loam, and lay another row, and so on until you have laid all you have, or until the ridge is as wide as can be easily managed. Cover the sides with not less than 6 inches of loam, laid over with straw, haulm, or leaves. Cover the top with litter. Drive down a post at each corner of your now oblong mound, and others at intervals of 10 feet along each side, the tops being about level with the top of the ridge. Connect the tops of the posts with a stringer, or wall-plate of 2 x 3 joist. Upon this wall-plate erect a roof, pitched just enough to shed rain; this roof may be made by nailing boards lapped over each other like shingles. The space between the top of the ridge and the roof should be filled with litter, and the ends of the ridge banked up in the same manner as the sides. The Celery and Cardoons are now safe from frost; and if the ridge is opened only at the ends, and closed up again carefully, its contents may be taken out whenever wanted, and will be fit to use until spring. To avoid the expense of a roof, you can use haulm, or straw, thatched enough to shed rain. It is a good way to pack the side rows, tops and leaves down, and roots up, as when thus laid no water can get into the heart of the plant, and it needs less protection. In all cases ventilate like Turnips with straw.

Cabbages and Cauliflowers are to be preserved in the same way. Pull the Cabbages and lay them upside down on the ground, for a time, to allow all the moisture to drain out; pull off the loose outside leaves, and then take them to a well sheltered spot, and plant them up to the head; when planted, cover like Celery. Another very good way is to build them up into a few triangular stacks, then thatch and cover as before. The worst way is to keep them in a cellar, unless it be very cool and dry. If any of them are

frozen before harvesting, leave them in the ground to thaw, as they are more likely to decay if pulled up when frozen.

Late Cauliflowers and Broccoli will produce heads as long as the absence of frost will allow; break leaves down over the heads to protect them against sudden rain or cold.

Finish harvesting the Root crops, as directed last month. If there is not room in the root cellar, the following is the best way to preserve them.

Choose a warm and protected corner of a well-drained field, and there make a furrow nearly 2 feet deep, by running your ditch plough several times in the same line, north and south. Lay the Roots into the furrow in a neatly built triangular stack, throw back the earth all over the Roots, to the depth of a foot, and cover the whole with straw. At intervals of 4 feet set a small bundle of straw on its buts on the Turnips, so that the straw will reach into the air through the earth, and will serve as a ventilator, to prevent the Turnips heating and growing. Open when you want a supply at the southern end, in a bright, warmish day.

All tubers may be easily and cheaply kept through the winter in this way.

The last Roots to be cared for are the Turnips sown in August. If left in the ground, freezing and thawing will injure them but little, and it is better to have them so, than to put them into warm cellars. Very small Turnips often remain in the ground through the winter, and start afresh in the spring, if slightly protected with straw or evergreen. The same is to be done with those Parsnips, Oyster Plants, and Horse-radishes, which you do not intend to stack, that they may be easily dug in the spring. All these Roots are better off in the ground than stored in cellars. But a better way than either is to pack them in sand or coal ashes, in hotbeds, as directed for Celery.

Take up Sea-Kale, Endive, Chicory, Asparagus, and Strawberries, for forcing.

At every spare moment continue to dig in long manure and haulm, and to dig over, without manure, those beds that do not need it. Collect all litter, leaves, and rubbish, and carry them to

the hog-pen, if you have no other use for them. They disfigure the grounds when left on them, and will be blown about by the winter winds. See that by spring all the manure gets sufficient fermentation to kill the seeds of weeds which have been mixed with the heaps during summer.

Our kitchen-garden covers several acres, and is laid out in straight lines and right angles. All I have said about it applies, of course, to a garden definitely located, and in successful operation; but I shall now devote a little space to the consideration of the general principles which should govern the selection and preparation of a spot for a kitchen-garden.

As to selection one must, of course, be limited by the nature of his estate; but the best soil is a deep, rich, sandy loam; the best exposure, a hill-side, sloping to the south or east, down to level meadow or valley, for here earlier vegetables can be grown than on level surface. This is in accordance with the principles referred to in my remarks on the angle to be selected for the roof of a greenhouse; viz., that the sun gives most heat when it is most nearly over our heads; in other words, that any surface is most heated by those rays which are perpendicular to it. Now, in the spring, when the sun is low in the heavens, the surface of level ground gets no rays, which approximate to the perpendicular, but a hill-side, during the middle of the day, receives rays which are very nearly perpendicular, and are, therefore, absorbed, instead of being reflected and wasted.

But this increased supply of heat ceases to be an advantage as the summer advances, and the heat increases, for then the level land has enough, and the hill-side is dried up. In the fall perpendicular rays are again in demand, and the hill-side is again preferable to the level for gardening purposes. We see at once, then, what varieties of crops to grow on different surfaces, and how to vary our garden culture. The hill-side will give us early Radishes, Lettuce, Peas, Corn, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Melons; the level ground will follow with later Lettuce, Peas, and Corn, Beans, Roots of various kinds, Celery, and the later Salads.

It is well, then, that a kitchen-garden should include both level

and sloping ground, but it is vain to expect good crops from either unless they are well drained; thorough drainage, either natural or artificial, being as essential here as on the farm.

But the quality of soil, and the character of surface are not the only considerations in selecting a spot for the kitchen-garden; its position in relation to the house and the grounds in general is important. Let it be near the stables and hog-pens, the framing ground and the hotbeds, if there be proper ground in that neighborhood; but wherever located, let it be for convenience, and not for concealment, as is so often advised. There seems to be a general feeling that a kitchen-garden cannot be in harmony with ornamental grounds, and must, therefore, be removed from them, lest the sight of it mar our enjoyment of their beauty. Now it is not only a necessity, but it may be an ornament to every estate, as much as the lawn or the flower-garden. What though its arrangement be rectangular, while curves preponderate in the other grounds? the two are not necessarily at variance; the effect of each may be much heightened by the contrast which the other presents. The love of the beautiful is often developed and the mind kept active and appreciative by the stimulus of judicious contrast, and a man of taste, who had avoided straight lines, sharp angles, and every thing like formality over the rest of his grounds, might well display all these in a kitchen-garden, as an expedient for increasing the enjoyment which he derives from the general grace and ease of the place. No better reason can be given for adopting such an arrangement in a kitchen-garden, and were it the only reason it would be sufficient, for I hold that convenience is a consideration secondary to beauty, and that this is the true order of motive in all cases where the means of a proprietor are large enough to justify him in gratifying his taste.

But this desire for contrast is not the only reason for adopting the rectangular arrangement. Where single rows of trees or espaliered fruit are to be grown, and where much of the culture will be on a scale large enough to employ a horse, the permanent lines should be straight, if possible; for curved or irregular boundaries are a great inconvenience when teams must be frequently driven or turned close to them.