the glass, and raise the temperature 5° to 10°. When the vines have grown 8 or 10 feet, stop them, and if they are healthy they will at once throw out laterals from the buds at the extreme ends. It is to be hoped no other buds will break; pinch these top laterals when 6 or 8 inches long. But all laterals emitted from the base, if fruit buds, should be stopped at first joint;-allowing the end laterals to grow freely is the best means of preventing the starting of the other buds. Water freely during the whole time, and occasionally with liquid manure. When the wood is ripened, set the plants against a south wall, and protecting the roots from the frost let them remain as long as is prudent."

"As the leaves fall off, shorten the canes to the required length, which will be regulated by their strength. The time for taking them into the house again will depend upon the time the fruit is to be ripened. Take the vines into the house in December; they will then ripen in May. Begin the temperature at 55°, and gradually increase it to 70°. Keep the atmosphere moist by syringing, and if dry at the root give weak manure-water. To prevent the roots getting too damp, set the pots on pieces of brick, which also improve the circulation of air in the house: when the buds have well broken, transfer them into a trough of this kind: plank (or slate) troughs are carried the length of the house, about half way between the floor and the glass roof. The bottom of the troughs is made of crossed strips; upon these lay pieces of turf 3 inches thick, to keep fine loam from sifting through; upon the turf 3 inches of compost, made of equal parts turfy loam and rotted manure, with a little sand; remove the vines by turning the pot upside down and lifting it off the ball; examine the ball and take out worms and pieces of crocks, but do not break the roots or loosen the earth. Now set the balls into the loam in the trough, and 3 inches apart. Fill between the balls with the same compost; cover the roots 1 inches deep. The plants are now as well off as if planted in an open border. Tie the canes of the front and back troughs to the rafters, and of the middle to the posts of the house, or to wires carried up to the roof. Syringe well, water occasionally, and pour the water on the ball and not upon the remaining earth, as the roots have not yet spread. When the shoots have .

fairly commenced to grow, stop them as in all other cases, leaving but one bunch to each, or 8 to 12 to every vine; a heavier crop would injure both the color and the flavor of the fruit. Water abundantly; the superfluous water will run off through the open bottom of the trough. In this way the grower may produce Muscats as readily as any other Grape, and a constant succession of fruit may be kept up without forcing the permanently planted vines too early. After the fruit is cut, remove the vines carefully from the trough, and set them out of doors where the roots may be protected from the sun; they may be replaced by another set of vines for a late crop."

"When the vine borders are vaulted or well warmed by hot air, water, or steam, the vines growing in them may be forced as much as you please, but it is not judicious to do it, as the strength and long life of the vine is sure to be injured. Pot or trough culture is equally favorable for retarding or for forcing grapes."*

GENERAL PLANTING.

"Black Hamburgh for greatest num

ber; Grizzly, Black and White Frontignan are all admired by those

* Reduced from McIntosh.

persons who like the Muscat flavor; they are liable to shrivel, and are more delicate than other grapes, and do not keep well when ripe; the Grizzly is the earliest of these. Tottenham Park Muscat is very like the above, but not so high-flavored: sets its berries better. Portuguese Muscat, Chasselas de Bar Sur Aube, Pitmaston, White Cluster, Syrian, white, has very large bunches, sometimes weighing 20 lbs."

CHAPTER XL.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

THE cold beds containing various plants for spring culture and winter use, must be examined as often as the weather permits, and if we have the usual January thaw, they may be uncovered and receive light and air in abundance.

In my last month's description of the treatment of hill-sides used as kitchen-gardens, I omitted one point of considerable importance; viz., that a close board fence or close stone wall should be erected across the hill toward the top of the garden, if you propose to cultivate either early or late crops there. Beside the protection given by such a fence or wall against high winds, it is very important as a means of retarding frost; and the lower down the hill it is, the better it works. You know that as air cools it condenses, becomes heavier, and falls to the earth, and when there, it runs like water over an inclined surface to the lowest level. Let the air on the top of a hill grow cool, it will run down the sides, if not so fast as water, yet in obedience to the same laws; and as it runs lower down it becomes colder, until at the bottom of the hill it is cold enough to produce frost, though at the top it was merely cool. A close fence coming down to the ground will stop this current of air as it would water, and either the air must find an outlet by running along the side of the fence, or it must pile up against it as water against a dam; so that, in time, the air at the bottom of the fence will be cold enough to freeze, while higher up it is mild.

This is not mere theory; it has been practically proved, and plants growing on the lower side of such a fence, and opposite a hole in it next the ground, have been found frost-bitten at that part of the stem which was no higher than the top of the hole, but untouched higher up.

Here, then, is a means of increasing the value of your garden.