of the month the Corn will be fit for the first hoeing; if it is very weedy and heavy, send the horse-plough through the rows each way, turning the soil from the Corn. Then, if the soil is not well pulverized, send the cultivator through in the same way, which will spread the earth out level again. If the land is in fair condition, and not stony, send the cultivator first, or better still, the horse-hoe. This is the best tool which can be used in common land, not too stony.

When the team comes out, let the men go in with hoes, and cut away all the weeds from about the Corn. Cut out or pull up all but four stalks, and then draw up the loose earth about the young stalks. If the land is in good condition, this can be done rapidly and easily.

Never hill the Corn.

If the land is wet, and you think to drain it by hilling, you will be disappointed; the land must be drained. The only result of hilling will be to loosen the hold which the Corn has on the soil. Corn sends out aerial rootlets as it grows. If it is hilled, these roots go into the loose earth of the hill and get no firm hold; if there is no hill, they descend to the firm earth and strengthen the plant. Some of the roots of Corn spread near the surface; if it is hilled, these go into the hill and get no hold.

Treat Potatoes in the same way, only drawing earth enough about their roots to secure a covering for the tubers as they grow, for any that are exposed to the sun become worthless. But even Potatoes should not be hilled much.

The only difference in managing other crops is, that for most of them the horse-hoe and the cultivator should be used, instead of the plough. These two tools will leave little to be done by the hand-hoe, in land which has been well tilled; the hoer need only .go over the field, and clear away the few weeds which escaped the machines. The cost of cultivating by horse power is small,— $1.00 to $1.50 per acre.

In cultivating the Root crop, the Radishes will mark the rows and guide the boy who leads the horse. As soon as the cultivator or horse-hoe has opened the rows, the men should follow with hoes, and thin the Roots to the proper distance: 8 inches for Carrots; 9 for Parsnips; 10 to 12 for Ruta Bagas; 12 to 14 for Mangold Wurzel. Leave wider gaps, rather than smaller than these.

The "singling" or thinning may be done rapidly and surely by hoes, with a little practice; any man who can chop wood well, striking surely where he aims, can thin Roots. He must walk down the row sidewise, facing the row to be thinned. If his hoe is 4 inches wide, two blows will thin the plants to 8 inches, three blows to 12 inches. The remaining plants will fall over when deprived of the accustomed support from their neighbors, but will soon revive if the hoe has not touched them. Another man should follow the singler, and cut away any weeds which remain, and draw with the hoe a very little earth about the plants that are to stand. By the next day all these will revive.

The horse-hoe should go through the rows again as soon as the weeds show, and if many weeds have started among the plants they must be hoed by hand; after which the roots will outgrow and smother all weeds, and cover the ground too closely to allow any new ones to start.

If there is any market for the Radishes, or if the stock will eat them, they may be drawn after the horse-hoe has marked the rows, and before the Roots are singled. If there is a market near, Radishes will generally pay more than the expense of their seed, and the trouble of drawing, washing, and tying in bundles.

Carrots, Parsnips, and Beets, may be sowed early in the month, Ruta Bagas and Mangold Wurzel from the 20th June to the 20th July.

For Mangold Wurzel and Ruta Bagas, well-ploughed, inverted sod will answer very well, particularly if ploughed with the Michigan plough. Parsnips and Carrots thrive on a sod well turned with the Michigan plough, where the subsoil plough is also used. But for all these crops stubble land is best, as their roots penetrate very deep, and unless the sod is so placed as to rot rapidly, they will not thrive, and a deep soil, as shown by the cut, is a sine quâ non for successful Root culture.

I do not recommend for any of these crops that the land be cultivated in ridges. It is a practice brought from England, where rains are frequent, and the water must be hastened in its flow from the surface; we rarely have too much water, and wet land should not be devoted to this crop.

The rows of Carrots and Parsnips should be 20 inches apart, those of Ruta Bagas and Beets, 27 inches to 32 inches apart. As these crops are not to be sowed till late, the ground on which they are to grow, whether stubble or sod, should be ploughed in the fall, or very early in the spring. Plough as early as possible, and leave it in the furrow. In June, there will be a good crop of weeds; cross plough and harrow thoroughly. Be sure that all your rows are perfectly straight. If you do not use a drill which, will sow the seed and the artificial manure together, sow for Carrots, Parsnips, and Mangold Wurzel, 200 pounds guano or superphosphate to the acre; for Ruta Bagas, and other Turnips, 400 pounds bones, or 200 pounds guano or superphosphate, and then harrow. If the seed and manure are sown together from a drill, harrow first. When the manure is sowed broadcast, the seed should be sowed from a seed sower, which should be set for the kind of seed used. Secure a stick at right angles to the line of draught, and hang from its end a piece of heavy chain, which will mark on the soft earth a line parallel to the first row sowed by the sower or drill. Let the machine be drawn straight through the field in the line of the feering-poles, and return in the line marked by the chain.

The seed of Mangold Wurzel, if good, need not be sowed nearer than 6 inches; 4 inches is proper for good Ruta Baga. Carrot seed being generally poor, may be sowed 2 inches apart; Parsnips the same. To sow an acre, you need 3 pounds of Carrot seed, 4 of Parsnips, 2 to 3 of Ruta Bagas, 3 to 6 of Mangold Wurzel. For the latter, sow 500 to 1,000 pounds salt, broadcast. This crop has not been grown, so extensively in this country as the others. The English plan of throwing the land into ridges, which has been found unnecessary for the other Roots, after trial, will undoubtedly be rejected in the case of Mangold, though it is recommended for it

now.

The English farmers, whose Roots are in drills, find it a good plan to go over the rows and draw the earth from the roots, that it may not cramp them, as they get most of their size above the surface. Should it be found that they are thus cramped when sown

flat, the plough could be run through the rows at the time of second hoeing, leaving the share close to the row, throwing the earth out a little into the middle; but it is doubtful whether the gain would pay for the trouble.

With sowing the Root crops the June planting ends, unless Millet is planted for fodder, which may be done as late as 1st July.

The Grass of the lawn should be cut with the lawn mowing machine at least twice in June, and may be fed green to the cows, or made into Hay. Other Grass will not be cut till July, as in a well-managed rotation there is no June Grass.

You may begin to cut Corn fodder as soon as the Rye is gone, if the Corn is large enough; if not, the lawn Grass will supply its place for awhile.

If you have any leisure, draw muck and other waste material to the yard, for compost. It would be a good plan never to return to the barn at noon or night without a load of some such material; in this way a large accumulation may be made at no expense.

Tie up the cows every night in the stable, and open all the windows and the upper half of the doors, for ventilation. The cows will be just as cool as if in the yard, and the manure will be saved.

Remember to keep the fowls close, else they will do much mis

chief.