LEFT Edinburgh (May 6, 1787)—Lammermuir-hills miserably dreary, but at times very picturesque. Lanton-edge, a glorious view of the Merse-Reach Berrywell-old Mr. Ainslie an uncommon character;-his hobbies, agriculture, natural philosophy, and politics. In the first he is unexceptionably the clearest-headed, best-informed man I ever met with; in the other two, very intelligent:-As a man of business he has uncommon merit, and by fairly deserving it has made a very decent independence. Mrs. Ainslie, an excellent, sensible, cheerful, amiable old woman. -Miss Ainslie-her person a little embonpoint, but handsome; her face, particularly her eyes, full of sweetness and good humour-she unites three qualities rarely to be found together; keen, solid penetration; sly, witty observation and remark; and the gentlest, most unaffected female modesty.-Douglas, a clever, fine promising young fellow. The family-meeting with their brother; my compagnon de voyage, very charming; particularly the sister. The whole family remarkably attached to their menials-Mrs. A. full of stories of the sagacity and sense of the little girl in the kitchen. Mr. A. high in the praises of an African, his house-servant-all his people old in his service-Douglas's old nurse came to Berrywell yesterday to remind them of its being his birthday.

A Mr. Dudgeon, a poet at times,' a worthy remarkable character-natural penetration, a great deal of information, some genius, and extreme modesty.

Bowmaker a man of strong lungs and pretty judicious remark; but ill skilled in propriety, and altogether unconscious of his want of it.

Monday.-Coldstream-went over to England -Cornhill-glorious river Tweed-clear and majestic-fine bridge. Dine at Coldstream with Mr. Ainslie and Mr. Foreman-beat Mr. Fin a dispute about Voltaire. Tea at Lenel House with Mr. Brydone-Mr. Brydone a most excellent heart, kind, joyous, and benevolent; but a good deal of the French indiscriminate complaisance-from his situation past and present, an admirer of every thing that bears a splendid title, or that possesses a large estateMrs. Brydone a most elegant woman in her person and manners; the tones of her voice remarkably sweet-my reception extremely flattering-sleep at Coldstream.

Tuesday.-Breakfast at Kelso-charming situation of Kelso-fine bridge over the Tweed— enchanting views and prospects on both sides of the river, particularly the Scotch side; introduced to Mr. Scot of the Royal Bank-an excellent, modest fellow-fine situation of it-ruins of Roxburgh Castle-a holly-bush growing where James II. of Scotland was accidentally killed by the bursting of a cannon. A small old religious ruin, and a fine old garden planted by the religious, rooted out and destroyed by an English hottentot, a maitre d'hotel of the duke's, a Mr. Cole-climate and soil of Berwickshire, and even Roxburghshire, superior to Ayrshire-bad roads. Turnip and sheep husbandry, their great im

of her Bible, with much earnestness, in search of the text. He took out a slip of paper, and with a pencil wrote the following line on it, which he immediately presented to her.

'Fair maid, you need not take the hint,

Nor idle texts pursue :

'Twas guilty sinners that he meant,-
Not angels such as you.'"

CROMEK.

provements Mr. M'Dowal, at Caverton Mill, a friend of Mr. Ainslie's, with whom I dined today, sold his sheep, ewe and lamb together, at two guineas apiece-wash their sheep before shearing -seven or eight pounds of washen wool in a fleece -low markets, consequently low rents-fine lands not above sixteen shillings a Scotch acre-magnificence of farmers and farm-houses-come up Teviot and up Jed to Jedburgh to lie, and so wish myself a good night.

in Jeda crazed,

Wednesday.-Breakfast with Mr. burgh-a squabble between Mrs. talkative slattern, and a sister of hers, an old maid, respecting a relief minister-Miss gives Madam the lie; and Madam, by way of revenge, upbraids her that she laid snares to entangle the said minister, then a widower, in the net of matrimony-go about two miles out of Jedburgh to a roup of parks-meet a polite, soldierlike gentleman, a Captain Rutherford, who had been many years through the wilds of America, a prisoner among the Indians-charming, romantic situation of Jedburgh, with gardens, orchards, &c., intermingled among the houses-fine old ruins a once magnificent cathedral, and strong castle. All the towns here have the appearance of old, rude grandeur, but the people extremely idle-Jed a fine romantic little river.

Dine with Capt. Rutherford-the Captain a polite fellow, fond of money in his farming way; showed a particular respect to my bardship-his lady exactly a proper matrimonial second part for him. Miss Rutherford a beautiful girl, but too far gone woman to expose so much of a fine swelling bosom-her face very fine.

Return to Jedburgh-walk up Jed with some ladies to be shown Love-lane and Blackburn, two fairy scenes. Introduced to Mr. Potts, writer, a very clever fellow; and Mr. Somerville, the clergyman of the place, a man, and a gentleman, but sadly addicted to punning. The walking party of ladies, Mrs. --and Miss her sister, before mentioned.-N.B. These two appear still more comfortably ugly and stupid, and bore me most shockingly. Two Miss

tolerably agree

able. Miss Hope, a tolerably pretty girl, fond of laughing and fun. Miss Lindsay, a goodhumoured, amiable girl; rather short et embonpoint, but handsome, and extremely gracefulbeautiful hazel eyes, full of spirit, and sparkling with delicious moisture-an engaging face un tout ensemble that speaks her of the first order of female minds-her sister, a bonnie, strappan, rosy, sonsie lass. Shake myself loose, after several unsuccessful efforts, of Mrs. and Miss

and somehow or other get hold

of Miss Lindsay's arm.-My heart is thawed into melting pleasure after being so long frozen up in the Greenland bay of indifference, amid the noise and nonsense of Edinburgh. Miss seems very well pleased with my bardship's distinguishing her, and after some slight qualms, which I could easily mark, she sets the titter round at defiance, and kindly allows me to keep my hold; and when parted by the ceremony of my introduction to Mr. Somerville, she met me half, to resume my situation.- -Nota BeneThe poet within a point and a half of being d-mnably in love—I am afraid my bosom is still nearly as much tinder as ever.

The old, cross-grained, whiggish, ugly, slanderous Miss -, with all the poisonous spleen

of a disappointed, ancient maid, stops me very unseasonably to ease her bursting breast, by falling abusively foul on the Miss Lindsays, particularly on my Dulcinea ;-I hardly refrain from cursing her to her face for daring to mouth her calumnious slander on one of the finest pieces of the workmanship of Almighty Excellence! Sup at Mr.'s; vexed that the Miss Lindsays are not of the supper-party, as they only are wanting. Mrs. and Miss improve infernally on my hands.

still

Set out next morning for Wauchope, the seat of my correspondent, Mrs. Scott-breakfast by the way with Dr. Elliot, an agreeable, goodhearted, climate-beaten old veteran, in the medical line; now retired to a romantic, but rather moorish place, on the banks of the Roole-he accompanies us almost to Wauchope we traverse the country to the top of Bochester, the scene of an old encampment, and Woolee Hill.

Wauchope-Mr. Scott exactly the figure and face commonly given to Sancho Panca-very shrewd in his farming matters, and not unfrequently stumbles on what may be called a strong thing rather than a good thing. Mrs. Scott all the sense, taste, intrepidity of face, and bold, critical decision, which usually distinguish female authors.-Sup with Mr. Potts-agreeable party. -Breakfast next morning with Mr. Somervillethe bruit of Miss Lindsay and my bardship, by means of the invention and malice of Miss Mr. Somerville sends to Dr. Lindsay, begging him and family to breakfast if convenient, but at all events to send Miss Lindsay; accordingly Miss Lindsay only comes.-I find Miss Lindsay would soon play the devil with me- -I met with some little flattering attentions from her. Mrs. Somerville an excellent, motherly, agreeable woman, and a fine family.-Mr. Ainslie and Mrs. S, junrs. with Mr. - Miss Lindsay, and myself, go to see Esther, a very remarkable

Mr. William Grieve, the oldest brother, a joyous, warm-hearted, jolly, clever fellow-takes a hearty glass, and sings a good song.-Mr. Robert, his brother, and partner in trade, a good fellow, but says little. Take a sail after dinner. Fishing of all kinds pays tithes at Eyemouth.

Sunday.-A Mr. Robinson, brewer at Ednam, sets out with us to Dunbar.

The Miss Grieves very good girls.-My bardship's heart got a brush from Miss Betsey.

Mr. William Grieve's attachment to the familycircle, so fond, that when he is out, which by the bye is often the case, he cannot go to bed till he see if all his sisters are sleeping well.- -Pass the famous Abbey of Coldingham, and Pease-bridge. -Call at Mr. Sheriff's, where Mr. A. and I dine. -Mr. S. talkative and conceited. I talk of love to Nancy the whole evening, while her brother escorts home some companions like himself.-Sir James Hall of Dunglass, having heard of my being in the neighbourhood, comes to Mr. Sheriff's to breakfast-takes me to see his fine scenery on the stream of Dunglass-Dunglass the most romantic, sweet place I ever saw-Sir James and his lady a pleasant happy couple.-He points out a walk for which he has an uncommon respect, as it was made by an aunt of his, to whom he owes much. Miss- will accompany me to Dunbar, by way of making a parade of me as a sweetheart of hers, among her relations. She mounts an old cart-horse, as huge and as lean as a house; a rusty old side-saddle without girth, or stirrup, but fastened on with an old pillion-girth-herself as fine as hands could make her, in creamcoloured riding clothes, hat and feather, &c.-I, ashamed of my situation, ride like the devil, and almost shake her to pieces on old Jolly-get rid of her by refusing to call at her uncle's with her.

Past through the most glorious corn-country I ever saw, till I reach Dunbar, a neat little town. -Dine with Provost Fall, an eminent merchant, and most respectable character, but undescribable, as he exhibits no marked traits. Mrs. Fall, a genius in painting; fully more clever in the fine arts and sciences than my friend Lady Wauchope, without her consummate assurance of her own abilities.-Call with Mr. Robinson (who, by the bye, I find to be a worthy, much respected man, very modest; warm, social heart, which with less good sense than his would be perhaps with the children of prim precision and pride, rather inimical to that respect which is man's due from man) —with him I call on Miss Clarke, a maiden in the Scotch phrase, "Guid enough, but no brent new:" a clever woman, with tolerable pretensions to remark and wit; while time had blown the blush

VOL. II.

ing bud of bashful modesty into the flower of easy confidence. She wanted to see what sort of raree show an author was; and to let him know, that though Dunbar was but a little town, yet it was not destitute of people of parts.

Breakfast next morning at Skateraw, at Mr. Lee's, a farmer of great note.-Mr. Lee, an excellent, hospitable, social fellow, rather oldish; warm-hearted and chatty-a most judicious, sensible farmer. Mr. Lee detains me till next morning. --Company at dinner.-My Rev. acquaintance Dr. Bowmaker, a reverend, rattling old fellow.— Two sea lieutenants; a cousin of the landlord's, a fellow whose looks are of that kind which deceived me in a gentleman in Kelso, and has often deceived me: a goodly handsome figure and face, which incline one to give them credit for parts which they have not. Mr. Clarke, a much cleverer fellow, but whose looks, a little cloudy, and his appearance, rather ungainly, with an every-day observer may prejudice the opinion against him.-Dr. Brown, a medical young gentleman from Dunbar, a fellow whose face and manners are open and engaging.-Leave Skateraw for Dunse next day, along with collector a lad of slender abilities and bashfully diffident to an

extreme.

Found Miss Ainslie, the amiable, the sensible, the good-humoured, the sweet Miss Ainslie, all alone at Berrywell.-Heavenly powers who know the weakness of human hearts, support mine! What happiness must I see only to remind me that I cannot enjoy it!

Lammer-muir Hills, from East Lothian to Dunse very wild.-Dine with the farmers' club at Kelso. Sir John Hume and Mr. Lumsden there, but nothing worth remembrance when the following circumstance is considered-I walk into Dunse before dinner, and out to Berry well in the evening, with Miss Ainslie-how well-bred, how frank, how good she is! Charming Rachael. may thy bosom never be wrung by the evils of this life of sorrows, or by the villainy of this world's sons!

Thursday. Mr. Ker and I set out to dine at Mr. Hood's on our way to England.

I am taken extremely ill with strong feverish symptoms, and take a servant of Mr. Hood's to watch me all night-embittering remorse scares my fancy at the gloomy forebodings of death.—1 am determined to live for the future in such a manner as not to be scared at the approach of death-I am sure I could meet him with indifference, but for "The something beyond the grave."-Mr. Hood agrees to accompany us to England if we will wait till Sunday.

3 M