yonder, with its many islands, each a jewel of beauty, its well wooded banks, its magnificent array of mountains around its head! Skiddaw itself, the one huge warder at its foot, is almost unobserved in the enthralling beauty of the lake which it protects. Bassenthwaite stretches its long line to northward in the much bepraised vale of Keswick, and the Derwent links with its pleasant winding stream the sister meres. But all attention is absorbed by this one feature of the scene, - fair Derwent Water and the mountains that encircle its Borrowdale extremity.

KESWICK.

[Hotels: - Royal Oak, Queen's Head, King's Arms; and the Derwent Water Hotel, a mile or so out of the town.

To Ambleside, 17 miles. - Ambleside, via east side of Derwent Water, to Watendlath, by mountain path to Easedale, Grasmere and Rydal 17,Ambleside, via east side of Derwent Water, Borrowdale, mountain path to Langdale, Elterwater, and Clappersgate 22.- Applethwaite, 2.--Armboth Fells, 8.-Barrow House, 2.- Bassenthwaite Lake, 4.- Blacklead Mines, 9. Blencathra (Saddleback), 6. Bowness, 21. Bowder Stone, 5.- Bowfell, 14.- Buttermere Lake, 14.- Castle Crag, 5. -Coniston Lake, 24.- Coniston Lake, via Borrowdale, Stake Pass, Blea Tarn, and Tilberthwaite, 22.-Crummock Water, 12.-Druid's Temple, 2.Ennerdale, 17.- Eskdale, 20.-Grange, 4.- Grasmere, 12.- Grasmere, via Borrowdale, Watendlath, mountain path, and Easedale, 12.- Helvellyn, 10. Honister Crag, 10.-Langdale, 15.-Lorton, 12.-Lodore Cascade, 3.- Loweswater, 13.- Ouse Bridge, 9.-Patterdale, 20.Penrith, via Patterdale, 24.- Penrith, via Threlkeld and Penruddock, 18. -Portinscale, 14.- Rosthwaite, 6.-St. John's Vale, 4.- Scawfell, 15. - Seatoller, 9.- Thirlmere, 4.-Ullswater, 15.-- Wastdale, 15.Watendlath, 5. Windermere Lake, 17.- Windermere Railway, 21.

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It is useless denying that the town of Keswick is neither cleanly nor beautiful; one might live in its principal street for twelve months without being conscious that you were in any other than a dull manufacturing town; nor is there anything pleasant about it except a charming smell of cedar pencils; Skiddaw might be Mount Lebanon for that matter. The inns,

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however, are numerous, and have plenty of room in them, nor is it their fault, we believe, that they cannot get any nearer to the lake. Perhaps if that sweet territory were invaded we should grumble that such desecration were permitted; but at all events, as matters stand, there is nothing for it but to hope for fine weather, so that we may escape from the town's smoky regions into the glorious country that surrounds it. Keswick exactly reverses the position of the ugly toad with the precious jewel in its head: the precious jewel spreads round upon all sides, but is afflicted, just at the head of it, with the presence of the monster, Trade. He is very useful, very good for every body, essential to the sketching tourist (being in the lead pencil line), and the worst we wish him is simply that, he were somewhere else. Many of the Keswick lodginghouses command an excellent view, however, and the villas about the town are mostly built with much good taste. Linsey-woollsey stuffs and edge tools, as well as pencils made of the wad (or plumbago) are manufactured here, but this last is the particular staple of its trade. There is a museum too, belonging to Mr. Crosthwaite, well worth our spending half-an-hour in ; and, especially, a model of the Lake District, by Mr. Flintoft, which will give the tourist a better idea of the relative positions of the places which he has seen, or which he is about to see, than all the maps in all the guide-books. We should also visit Crosthwaite Church: passing Greta Hall upon the right, where the author of 'Thalaba' lived so many years, and see the statue of poor Southey, by Gough, and his grave in

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CASTLE HEAD.

the church-yard. He well appreciated that Derwent Water view of his as you may read — although he was by no means so great a lover of Nature as of Books.

THE LAKE.

The lake will be the permanent attraction to all visitors at Keswick, and the place to which they will turn their steps at the first opportunity. Before they take boat to explore its beauties from Friar Crag, let them get a general and perfect idea of them by ascending the wooded hill called Castle Head, close by. From thence too they will mark best how the mountains are grouped at the lake's-foot, in the gateway of Borrowdale, frowning so grandly one above the other, as if to deter mere mortals from entering within the happy valley. Farthest of all is Scawfell, then Great End, then Glaramara, and nearest and lowest of the four, Castle Crag (like a portcullis between the mighty sides of the entrance) whereupon was the Roman station once, and where like clumps of Roman spears, the dark trees bristle thickly. Near or far, we believe there is nothing within view from this spot that a lover of natural beauty would like to be altered, or would wish away. Descending to where the boats are moored, let us coast by Derwent Hall, the charmingly situated residence of Mr. Marshall, and one which we greatly covet the name of this was in old times Vicar's Island, which belonged first to Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire, and at the dissolution of the Monasteries to one John Williamson; it was, even in Leland's time, "covered