LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE. FASHIONS For SEPTEMBER, 1807. EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION. ENGLISH COSTUME. No 1.-EVENING DRESS. A round train dress of India muslin, embroidered in a fancy border of needle-work at the feet. The stock bosom, ornamented with white beads. A full Spanish short sleeve, over a plain one of white satin. A scolloped lace tucker, placed strait round the bosom. Circassian scarf of gold, chambrey, or lace, crossing the back, and gather ed in front of the left shoulder into an emerald brooch, reaching to the feet, finished with a gold tassel, and occasionally formed into drapery by the attitude of the right hand. The hair tastefully disposed in bands and curls; and a small ostrich feather crossing the crown towards the right side, is fastened to the hair with an emerald stud. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of pearl, with emerald clasps. White kid gloves and shoes. No. 2.-EVENING WALKING DRESS. A plain round gown of jaconot muslin, a walking length, simply ornamented with rows of open-hems round the bottom. A plain square bosom sitting close to the form, laced up the front, and trimmed at the edge with twisted muslin. A large straw hat of the Gipsy form, tied across the crown with a silk handkerchief. Deep Vandyke stock, of lace or needle-work. A black lace or Chinese shawl, thrown in irregular negligence over the shoulders. Strawcoloured kid gloves and shoes. White sarsnet parasol, deeply fringed, and painted in historical devices. No. 3. A WALKING DRESS. A plain round robe of the finest French cambric. A Capuchin cloak of muslin or coloured sarsnet, edged in Vandyke, sitting close round the throat, with a falling collar, and confined in the centre with a ribband or brooch. A Village hat, of straw or chip, with silk crown, and ribband to correspond with the cloak. Shoes of brown kid; gloves York tan; and parasol of clouded sarsnet. No. XXI, Vol, III, No. 4.-EVENING DRESS. A round train gown of white sarsnet, with square back, wrap front, and short full sleeve; ornamented round the bottom, bosom and sleeves with a rich chenille ribband of shaded green. A short sash tied behind with shaded chenille ends. The Parisian head-dress, composed of the hair formed in braids and curls, blended with bands of green and gold foil. The pear earrings of gold and pearl. An imperial necklace of linked gold; elastic bracelets of the same, with emerald studs. Shoes white satin; gloves French kid; and fan of white crape, painted in a border of the yellow jessamine. A REGULAR AND EXTENSIVE DELI. NEATION OF THE MOST SELECT FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON; Transmitted from the several Places of elegant resort. ALTHOUGH the flight of our fashionable fair leaves us little to communicate immediately from the metropolis, on the score of fashionable intelligence, yet as we pursue the changeful goddess with determined perseverance, in her various haunts, we hope to collect for her fair votaries a selection of delineations equally copious with those advantages which our extensive limits of observation afford. It is true, that our brilliant parties, and public assemblies are for a while suspended; that our streets no longer resound with the rolling of splendid equipages, or attract by the number and elegance of their fair pedestrians both animate and inanimate nature however need their allotted portion of rest; and the present period may not, therefore, improperly be termed the repose of the metropolis. But genius, taste, and pleasure are always active, they disdain the dormant faculties of languor and supineness; and merely shift the scene, in which they are ever destined to perform the principal Р : bonnet, of wove and variegated willow; fringed at the crown with light green or lilac. The short canonical cloak of muslin, or coloured sarsnet, trimmed with thread lace. The Spanish scarf, and Chili girdle, together with simple scarfs of coloured Italian crape, twisted fancifully round the figure, and worn with small transparent bonnets of the same, are all articles which rank high amidst a fashionable selection. The Arcadian hat of straw, or black chip, composes much simple and novel elegance. It is somewhat of the small gipsy form, with an oval, or melon crown. The rim sits close on one side of the head, so as to cover the ear; and on the other, exhibits a small French cap of lace, or a demi crown of similar materials with the hat; a half handker. chief of black net, embroidered in coloured silks, (chiefly shaded crimson, or jonquille), simply crosses the crown, and confines it under the chin. Some ladies add a flower in front, others pass a small wreath across the forehead so as to blend tastefully with the hair; and ea of these additions have a most animated and pleasing effect, and renders this uncommonly elegant ornament, sufficiently dressy for an evening party. Simple gipsy hats of straw and chip, are still prevalent; and a bonnet somewhat of the Minerva form, is lately introduced on the evening parades. It is formed of a rich fancy sarsnet, shaded in the form of small clouds; ornamented with Angola feathers on the crown, of correspondent hues; and finished at the edge with the French binding. Many ladies appear on the public walks in simple caps of satin, or lace, lined with coloured sarsnet, and ornamented with wreaths, or small bunches of flowers. Over the cap, or suspended from the edge, is seen a short veil of French lace. Indeed we remark, that no female of fashionable pretensions appears in a cap or small hat, without this chaste and becoming ap part. Accordingly at Brighton, at Ramsgate, at Worthing, at Yarmouth, at Scarborough, we find them holding their respective courts, and by combining their attractions, giving lustre and animation to each gay and social scene. Now as at these places of summer resort, the splendid habit of the drawing-room is somewhat laid aside, it is the more requisite that the evening and morning, the walking, or carriage costume, should chiefly engage our present attention; for at the summer evening assemblies, the petit déjeuné, or any rural fete, the attire to be con. sidered either elegant or consistent, should partake more of a graceful, unobtrusive simplicity, than of that dazzling display which distinguishes the winter ball or drawing-room. It is in the unstudied, yet chaste and tasteful garb of a domestic gentlewoman, in the neat, yet elegant attire appropriated to the evening walk, where taste and fashion unite in forming an interesting simplicity of style, that a beautiful woman will engage the attention, and come nearest the heart. We naturally glance from external grace, neatness, and propriety, to the purity of the soul, and the order of the mind; and our admiration insensibly changes to esteem and affection as we contemplate the existing analogy. We have in our former communications, occasionally insisted on the necessary attention of females to this particular style of decoration; and at a period when from its appropriate qualities, the adoption will consequently be more general, it will not be amiss to dwell more at large on its nature and advantages. We will begin with the walking, or carriage costume, which we consider never to have combined more variety and elegance than at the present season. The robe pelisse of plain or embroidered muslin, let in down the seams, and entirely round, with double rows of beading in embroidery, is exceedingly esteemed, both as a morning robe, or sea-side wrap. The Bruns-pendage. The veil is so graceful and interestwick mob and vest, the simple jacket and petti coat, made high in the neck, with Spanish capes and Catalani sleeves, trimmed with Vandyke lace, are all articles of fashionable celebrity. But the Bannian, or Chinese coat, as a carriage habit, ranks high in novelty and elegance. It is formed as a large open pelisse, but short, not reaching below the bend of the knee; and is composed of a soft Chinese silk, a salmon colour, over which runs in a very small pattern, the tea leaf and berry. It is simply confined at the throat with a brooch, or chord and tassel of lilac silk; and a similar one is suspended from the bottom of the waist behind, meant occasionally to confine the coat. Round the bottom is placed a deep lilac silk fringe, of uncommon richness, and beautifully shaded. This very unique and elegant article is usually worn with a small jockey ing an ornament, that which ever way disposed it must ever produce a distinguishing effect. We take upon us however to recommend some attention to the size and disposition of this generally becoming ornament; in which particular it should at all times be adapted to the style of feature and stature of the several wearers; a short woman obscures the possible symmetry of her figure by a long or wide veil, while a female of a commanding height, graceful carriage, and imposing air, receives from the long veil considerable advantage. The style of gowns and robes differ not very materially from our last communication. The plain high front, sitting close to the form, with narrow shoulder-strap and low back; the plain Vandyke tucker, or French lappelled handkerchief trimmed with Vandyke lace; the small puckered front and sleeves to who, being very handsome, very insinuating, and very poor, gladly followed the example of his countrymen, in compounding with a rich city heiress, by giving himself and a title in exchange for the lady's fortune and estates. The father of Lady M'Laurence was a respectable merchant, whose name for more than fifty years had res dresses of coloured crape; the lozenge front and sleeve, formed of alternate stripes of French net and satin ribband; white tiffany short dress, over a coloured sarsnet under-dress; plain cambric morning dresses, with the bodies richly worked in a close pattern of open-hems and em. broidery, with the Catalani, or corkscrew sleeve, are all articles at once distinguishing and fashion-sounded within the precincts of Change-Alley; able. Several females of rank and taste wear the hair cropt close behind, and formed in curls on the crown of the head. In full dress, however, a variety of style prevails; sometimes we see the hind hair formed into ringlets twisted in a cable chord at the back of the head, and flowing full on the left side, while a band consisting of three braids rests flat on the other; sometimes the simple Madona front is observed; and sometimes entire bands of braided hair, interspersed with steel beads across the forehead, and are twisted in bows at the back of the head. Ridicules of painted velvet, of various constructions, and beautifully designed, are now much used by our belles of fashion. The coloured parasol becoming very general. Trinkets exhibit little variety. The composition brooch, formed to represent natural flowers; the beaded necklace of polished rose-wood, capped and linked with gold; together with earrings and brooches representing the flower called the Pheasant's-eye, may be ranked amidst the most elegant and novel ornaments in this line. Black and white satin slippers, together with white and coloured kid, trimmed to correspond with the dresses to which they are attached, are generally selected. White kid, York tan, and Limerick gloves, are considered far more genteel than those of kid the colour of the bonnets, which were of late partially introduced. The prevailing colours for the season are pea-green, jonquille, pale-lilac, blossom, pink, and primrose. LETTER ON DRESS. FROM ELIZA TO JULIA, EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE. Rosewood Villa, Richmond. WELL, dear Julia, after having run our round of pleasure with the great and the gay, sporting with the dashers at Brighton races, joining with the fashionable throng at Worthing, admiring the fresh-imported Cits at Margate, and sighing over the military heroes embarking at Ramsgate, here I am,-quietly seated beneath a branching willow, whose boughs, reclining in luxuriant loveliness, embrace the quietly flowing Thames. The Villa of which we are at present the inmates, is the residence of Sir James M'Laurence, a cheerful generous Hibernian; he was the intimate friend of my uncle, and his daughter consequently one of cousin Mary's oldest friends. This relation will account to you for our present destination. Lady M'Laurence presumes much on her wealth, is somewhat vulgar, and ill-informed; she possesses a person and manners at once coarse and unengaging; and Sir James, who appears to possess a lively sensibility for female beauty and elegance, seems occasionally to observe these unattractive qualities in his partner, spite of that fortune which permits him to pursue other pleasures than those arising from a reciprocal interchange of affection and tenderness. My dear Julia, I have lately seen too much of those comforts and advantages which a good fortune procures, to form any high-flown notion of—“Love in a Cottage;" on the contrary, from a more extensive observation of men and manners, I am more inclined to echo the adage of our old nurse, who used to tell us, that "When Poverty comes in at the door, Love flies out at the window." And yet, dear friend, one would wish that fortune should be but a secondary consideration in the choice of a partner for life. But as this style is rather foreign to the des tined purport of my letter, I will dismiss it for the present, and proceed to simple detail. I inclose in this packet, dear Julia, a long list of fashionable descriptions, collected from the seve ral places where we have lately sojourned, and shall confine myself to a few choice delineations of such costumes as have since attracted my attention. Mary accompanied the three Lady B's to the fete at Oatlands, last week; and was highly charmed with the cordiality, fascination, and benevolent manners of the Royal Hostess. Nothing could exceed the taste, animation, and hospitality of the charming scene. The dresses of the Ladies B was so singular in their construction and design, that they will be found worthy of delineation, were it only on the score of novelty; they were styled the Carmelite, or Convent vest, and were formed of a gossamer satin, the colour a nun's brown. They were cut low in the back and bosom, with a plain long sleeve of white crape; a French tippet of the same, cut in Vandykes, and entirely without trimming, met the edge of the vest round the bosom, and sat close to the form; round the throat it was finished with a row of Convent beads, and a cross was suspended from the centre, of Jerusalem wood. A deep black velvet cestus, pointed before and behind, confined the bottom of the waist, which was much longer than are usually seen, and each point reached to the edge || of the tippet. The hair was worn in bands and braids on one side of the head, and a few loose curls fell on the other. On the crown of the head, and placed towards one side, was a flat and fanciful disposed turban of crimson muslin, thickly interwoven with small gold spots, and worn somewhat in the Chinese style. The three sisters are nearly of the same height, of a middle stature, and neatly rather than elegantly formed. Their complexions were a clear brown, and their features expressive without being handsome; but the trio thus singularly adorned naturally excited universal attention. Mary wore a short dress of black net lace, over a white satin under-dress, the bottom and drapery ornamented with borders of the pheasant's-eye and myrtle tastefully blended. Her hair was braided in bands, and twisted fancifully with Chinese pearl; bracelets and armlets of the same, with the barrel snap of diamonds. Her shoes were white satin, trimmed with silver; and she wore a bouquet of the Cape-heath and jessa. mine. We have just received dresses from town appropriated for that intermediate style which at this season is more generally adopted; for, except on very particular occasions, it is thought prodigiously vulgar to dress much in the country; I do not mean to infer, that less attention is required in this order of personal decoration; for a correct taste is more immediately discernable in this than in any other style of costume. The most striking article in this line is a frock dress of plain India muslin, with separate waists, let in entirely round, with treble rows of beading. The morning waist is made of embroidered muslin, similar to that which composes the dress, and buttons up the back; it sits high in the neck, and close to the form, and is finished with pointed capes round the throat, trimmed with narrow Vandyke lace. The long sleeve à la Catulani, is of plain muslin, similar to that which composes the dress. The other waist which transforms this elegant garb into the evening dress, is || formed entirely of footing lace, and beadings of embroidery, extended over a lining of white sarsnet; the sleeve, short and full, is formed on the cross, finished at the edge with a row of beading, and confined in the centre of the arm and bosom with the hearts-ease brooch.-I have never seen any dress which blends at once more convenience, neatness, and elegance. For more minute particulars I refer you, dear Julia, to the list of general remarks which accompanies this; and shall hasten now to conclude my epistle by a farther attention to your wishes, in recommending to your perusal the following new works. I know, that in spite of all opposition, you continue your predilection for the epistolary style; read therefore a novel in letters, entitled-Love as it may be, and Friendship as it ought to be, by Mrs. Bayfield; I know you will need no other inducement than the decision passed on it by the late elegant authoress, and inestimable woman, Mrs. Cooper. The Hungarian Brothers, and The Aphorisms of Sir Phillip Sidney, from the pens of the amiable sisters, the Miss Porters, I am sure you will read with avidity. The Benevolent Monk shall arrive with the next packet; we are too deeply engaged in it to part with it at present. Adieu! dear, and ever dear Julia, conclude me always your attached and affectionate ELIZA. TO CORRESPONDENTS. THE conclusion of the Essay on Politeness, together with the termination of the Biography of the Queen of Naples, (which had been mislaid) will be given in our next. The Farmer's Letters will be returned. Our Correspondent in Clipstone-street we shall be glad to hear from, Our valuable Correspondent at Camden Town, to whom we were indebted for the account of a Concert of Music given to two Elephants, is requested to purge his MS. of all future indelicacies. To raise a blush on female cheeks is not becoming a writer of his distinguished talents. London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-Street, Strand. |