with. Of these arms, the pistols and the knife are stuck in the sash, which is girt round their middle, and is fastened by large circular silver clasps. Their best sword-blades are from Damascus, and are highly valued; the scabbard and handle are generally of silver, richly ornamented and embossed. Amongst their arms I observed a long piece of wood, the end of which was grooved crosswise, like a wafer-seal; I was at a loss to know the use of this instrument; and on inquiry, found its name was Kaschik; the Arnauts use it to scratch their backs when incommoded by vermin; which, although they are always employed in catching as a pleasant amusement during their idle hours, they are however never free from, and they might say as the fishermen to Homer, who asked if they had caught anything: Οσσ' ελομεν λιπομεσθα οσ' ουχ ελομεν, φερομεσθα. What we have taken we have thrown away-what we have not taken, we still possess. They resemble the Selli of Homer; sleep on the ground, and seldom wash themselves. They are the hardiest soldiers in the Turkish empire; but are insubordinate, cruel, and addicted to plunder. It seems that the Arnauts, who are now much attached to fire-arms, entertained a great dread of them about a century and a half ago; and never used them, but attacked with stones, which they threw with great dexterity. Such is the account given of them by Du Loir, who travelled in Greece in 1654. At present they never quit their arms, not even in times of the greatest security: in peace they wear them as ornamental; and in times of disturbance, as instruments of destruction and pillage, rather than of security and defence. The Archons, or richer class of Greeks, wear three garments; the under one is tied round the middle with a sash; the two others are loose the under garments are the two, and are generally striped; the outer one is commonly of a vivid colour, and is the Imation οι Φαρος. The female Arnaut costume is nearly the same through the whole of Greece; but that of the Greek female varies in different parts of the country, particularly in the Archipelago, where every island has its fashion. The Galaxidiote women all wear the Arnaut costume; they have a long robe of a light colour; the sides and bottom are ornamented with a broad border, which is usually black; but in their gala dress it is red, and sometimes dark green, as at Athens. The outer garment is loose, but the under one is girt round the middle by a broad zone ornamented with brass, and sometimes with silver, having two large circular clasps uniting in front. This forms as conspicuous a part of the female Arnaut attire as the Knemides do of that of the men; and the women are not less vain of a broad and massive girdle, than their husbands are of the brightness and richness of their boots; and no doubt the arm, or the worng, was an ornamental part of female attire in the earliest times, as Homer gives the epithet of καλλιζωνοι to the females, as he does that of ευκνημίδες to the men; and Pindar's epithet of Cabugao induces me to imagine, that in very early periods, the zones of the Grecian women were not dissimilar to the girdles of the moderns, and they were certainly highly necessary in the heroic ages, when Apollo, Hercules, Theseus, and other such intemperate persons, endangered the virtue of every female they met. The girdles of the Albanians are as complete a safeguard against violence as the modern stays of the Sabine women. The Grecian females in early times had two sorts of girdles. The wopia ζωσμα 1 Well-girdled; Hymn to Apollo, v. 446, * Broad-girdled, rov patrwy1 was to support the breasts; and the woμa trip" TY nokia, was probably similar to that wore by the moderns: Martial supposes a zone of this kind, speaking to a newly-married woman Longa satis nunc sum, dulci sed pondere venter Si tumeat, fiam tunc tibi zona brevis.2 The head-dress of the women is a white handkerchief, hanging carelessly down the shoulder, and turned round the neck, resembling the ancient Στρόφιον, or Κεκρυφαλον, as seen on some of the coins of Corinth; their hair is plaited behind, and divided into three long tails nearly reaching the ground; the extremities ornamented with red tassels, Turkish piastres, Spanish dollars, and sometimes Venetian sequins, and ancient Greek medals; an incongruous mixture, which when they danced made a tinkling discord with the drums and fifes. Their necklaces and ear-rings are of coral, or coloured glass, with an intermixture of Greek medals, or Turkish and Venetian gold, amongst which I observed some ancient medals of Philip and Alexander. These coins are frequently found in Greece with perforations which are apparently ancient. Those of Alexander were worn as amulets, and supposed to protect the possessors from various evils. This singular custom is explained at length by Dr. Clarke. The Philippi were common and current throughout the Roman empire many centuries after the time of Alexander. T. Q. Flaminius sent 14,514 of them to Rome, after his conquest of Macedon.1 The young girls and unmarried women have the red skull-cap, which is covered, more or less with money, according to the wealth of the person. They sometimes wear their dower upon their head, 2 B. 14. Epig. 140. 1 See Jul. Pollux Onomast, b. 7. c. 16. Seg. 65. 67. 3 Travels in Greece. • Plutarch's Life of Flaminius. consisting in Turkish paras and piastres, which are perforated and strung round the cap: in the front is sometimes a row of Venetian sequins; and if the young lady is very rich, some larger pieces of gold coin attract the eyes of her admirers. The Turkish women have a different costume from the Greek, and are covered with an ample peplos, which falls to the feet in fine and picturesque folds. CHAPTER V. Discordance of authors <Departure for Salona. Ancient ruins called Agia Euphemia. Salona, the ancient Amphissa; inhabitants, produce. Visit to the Voivode. To Krisso, the ancient Krissa. concerning that town and Kirra. Krissæan plain. TO SALONA, AMPHISSA. ON N quitting Galaxīdi, we were advised to carry provisions with us; as in case we should stop any time at villages, to examine the antiquities, we should find nothing but bread and cheese. We accordingly provided ourselves with coffee, tea, and sugar, dry raisins and figs, ripe olives, Khaviar, and Kalbaz. When the olive ripens, it grows black, and falls from the tree; it is then eaten, with bread and salt, without any preparation. It is an excellent food, and a good substitute for meat. In Italy they never ripen ; the climate not being sufficiently hot: they are however smoked, but not comparable to those of Greece, which ripen naturally. The Khaviar is composed of the roe of sturgeons, which are taken in the Caspian and Black seas; the roe is salted, and put into barrels. It is of a dark-brown colour, is generally eaten with oil and vinegar, and is esteemed a delicacy, though at first its fishy taste is not agreeable: it forms a lucrative branch of commerce, is sent to most parts of Europe, and eaten in fast-time, by |