the end of the Adriatic, and beginning of the Ionian Sea. The Epirote mountains were covered with snow, which had fallen during the late storm. At a great distance inland the lofty Tomaros,1 and the still more magnificent Pindos, were distinguished rearing their white and pointed summits above the clouds. On the 27th, after passing near the Phalakron promontory, formed by Mount Pantokrator, we entered the narrow canal which separates Corfu from the coast of Epiros. The rocks which rose on our right, at the distance of a few yards, are the northern end of the highest mountain in the island, called Pantokrator; the city of Cassiope, and temple of Jupiter Cassius, were in this situation; in the vicinity is a church dedicated to the Madonna di Cassopo. On the opposite coast of Epiros was another Cassiope, the exact position of which is unknown; but it was between Onchesmos and Buthroton, nearest to the latter. The ancient walls of Buthroton remain, and are composed of well-joined polygonal blocks. This place is called Bothrentos by Cantacuzene, which name it still retains, although it is commonly called Butrinto by the Italians. Having passed this narrow strait, and an insulated rock called Serpa, we entered the widest part of the canal, which in some places opens into an expanse of about twelve miles broad. On our left was the grand range of the Epirote mountains; on our right, the green and fertile Corfu, with its olive groves, its undulating and variegated hills, its capital, and its fortifications. We sailed close to the island of Vido, the ancient Ptychia, and cast anchor under the walls of the city. We presented our passport and letters to Mr. Foresti,3 (British consul-general, and since minister) who received us with all possible civility. We took up our abode at a miserable inn, the only one in the town, where every thing was so filthy, that during the nights, we were quite infested with insects; 'Or Tmaros-Strabo, b. 7. now Tomaritz. 3 Now Sir Speridion Foresti, Knt. * Hist. b. 2. c. 37. p. 321. Paris edit. and the first morning after our arrival, as soon as I awoke, I saw a scorpion on my pillow. The sting of the scorpion is not mortal in Greece, and is easily cured by the application of the Oleum Scorpionum,1 or oil in which scorpions have been infused; the animal itself, mashed and put immediately on the wound, is said to effect a rapid cure. Their virus is proportionably stronger where the climate or the season is hotter ; in parts of Africa their sting is certain death, and the town of Pescara is deserted by its inhabitants in the summer on account of the great quantity of scorpions. In winter they are nearly in a torpid state, and their sting is less dangerous. It is said, that if a scorpion is surrounded by a circle of burning coals, and finds it cannot escape, it strikes itself with its sting on the back, and immediately dies. The few scorpions I saw in Greece are about two inches in length, and generally black. I found some at Thermopylæ about half an inch longer, and of a dull yellow tint. In Italy they are extremely common, and enter the houses as soon as the first autumnal rains commence. We had not been in the island two hours, when we heard a firing in the streets. Mr. Foresti, who was with us at the time, immediately guessed the cause, and said he was convinced that a quarrel had broken out between the Greeks and the Turks; this event having been expected for some time, owing to the insolent and overbearing behaviour of the latter. It is necessary to mention that the Septinsular, or Ionian Republic, was at that time under the protection of the Russians and the Turks, both of which nations had a fleet stationed in the port of Corfu: the Turkish sailors were sometimes permitted to land on market-days; and being always armed, paraded the streets with the greatest insolence. The immediate origin of the present affair is not well known; but it is supposed that a Turk, taking improper liberties with the wife of a Corfuote, the husband resented the affront, in strong language, and was immediately shot 1 Dr. Mead on Poisonous Animals. * Joann. Leo Histor. Afric, b. 6. by the enraged Turk, in the middle of the market-place. The murderer was in his turn, killed by another Greek; and the affair soon assumed a serious aspect, a general insurrection being apprehended. We heard the firing of pistols on all sides; and curiosity leading us to the top of the house, we narrowly escaped being wounded, some balls passing close to us, one of which entered the wall a very short distance from us. Several Turks having taken refuge in a coffee-house, barricaded the door, which was broken open by the populace; and the Greek who first entered, with a pistol in each hand, killed two Turks, but was immediately cut to pieces. The populace then attempted to set fire to the house; but the Turks rushing out upon their opponents, after killing some Greeks, and losing some of their own men, retreated across the Esplanade to the fortress. Seventeen Turks, and not half that number of Greeks, lost their lives in this affair. There were not above two hundred of the former in the town, who were protected by the Russians, and conducted to the fortress. It was with the greatest difficulty that the Turkish Seraskier prevented his sailors landing, and revenging their countrymen; had that happened, a most bloody conflict would in all probability have ensued; for the news of the disturbance was in a few hours carried through the island, and to the opposite coast of Epiros; and in the afternoon, many thousands of well-armed and determined Greeks were collected round the walls of the city, panting with the desire of dyeing their swords in Moslem blood; and as some said, of pillaging the town. The Russians apprehending a continuation of these disturbances, landed five hundred men, who took possession of the fort which is near the Esplanade, and commands the city, dismissing the weak Septinsular garrison, supposing them unable to resist any sudden assault of the Turks. The senate passed a general pardon; the inhabitants were prohibited bearing arms; and our consul, Mr. Foresti, by his influence and personal courage, was very instrumental in restoring tranquillity. The next day we paid a visit to the Turks in the castle, and were received with much civility by the Capigi Bashi. After pipes and coffee, and a short conversation, which we carried on by means of our dragoman, or interpreter, we took our leave, and were shewn into a long chamber, serving as an hospital to about forty Turks, who were wounded in the late affair, and who were lying on mattresses placed on the ground; some of them were at that moment breathing their last. We were glad to turn away from such scenes! and quitted the mansion of death with disgust. We were next conducted by our consul, to pay our respects to the President of the Republic, Count George Theotochi, a venerable old man, who is styled Prince, or Archon. We were received by his Excellence and the senators, with every mark of attention, in a small and badly-furnished room. They expressed their alarm at the late unfortunate event; appearing uneasy as to what might follow, and more apprehensive of the villagers of their own island than of the Turks themselves. They provided us with letters for the different islands of the Republic, which were afterwards of considerable service to us. We also visited the Seraskier on board his vessel: nothing could be more kind than the reception he gave us; there was great order and neatness throughout the Turkish ships, which may be said, in point of cleanliness, to vie with English vessels. In the cabin of the Seraskier I observed the portrait of Lord Nelson. CHAPTER II. Compendium of the history of Corcyra-small islands near it-villages, produce. Departure from Corfu. Islands of Paxos and Antipaxos. Town of Parga. Arrival at Santa Maura. Ruins of Leucas-Lover's Leap-villages-produce. Town of Prebeza-Ruins of Nicopolis—Ambracian gulph. Departure from Santa Maura-manner in which the pirates treat their prisoners. Taphian, or Teleboian islands-Ithaca-villages-ports-produce-mountains-ruins of a castle and city—other ruins. Fount Arethusa. Medals of Ithaca. Albanian robbers. Island of Cephallenia. End of my first Tour in this part of Greece, Και λιπαρη Κερκυρα φιλον πεδον Αλκινόοιο. BEFORE I undertake the description of modern Corfu, it will be necessary to give a succinct account of its ancient history, without entering into long details, which are foreign to the plan I propose to follow throughout the present work; nor have I time to investigate the question whether Phæacia is Judæa, or Alcinoos Solomon? which is the opinion of a learned man of our country; ́and, although the Odyssey has not the same character of geographical veracity, which is so conspicuous in the Iliad, yet it cannot be allowed that the Phæacia of Homer is a Laputa, or a Brobdignag. The origin of the word Ionian (which is given to the islands on this coast from the Ionian gulph) is not known with any degree of certainty; Eschylus and Hyginus3 attribute it to Io, the daughter of Inachus; Strabo says that Theopompus derives it from Ionios, an inhabitant of Issa. The ancient names of Corfu are Scheria, 1 Dionys. Orb. Descrip. v. 494; and fertile Corcyra, the loved land of Alcinoos. 3 Fab. 145. |