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cian gulf-Departure from Santa Maura—Manner in which the pirates treat their prisoners-
Taphian, or Teleboian islands—Ithaca—Villages-Ports—Produce—Mountains-Ruins of a
castle and cityOther ruins-Fount Arethusa—Medals of Ithaca—Albanian robbers—Island
of Cephallenia—End of my first tour in this part of Greece
• Page 32
CHAPTER III.
Beginning of my second tour_Sail from Messina- Coast of Calabria—First view of Greece-Arrival
at the island of Zakunthos—Population—Villages - Manufactures-Produce—Bituminous
springs—Corruption of names by the Italians-Dimensions of the island-Panorama from
Mount Elatos-Departure from Zakunthos—Eleian coast-Arrival at Mesaloggion-Extor-
tions of Ali, Pasha of Joannina–Produce and commerce of Mesaloggion-Ruins of an ancient
city in the vicinity—River Acheloos, Echinades, Taphiai, Teleboiai, Doulichion-River
Evenos
77
CHAPTER IV.
Departure from Mesaloggion-Corinthian gulf, its various denominations- Arrival at Patra-
Antiquities and modern state of that city-Mount Panachaikos—The castle-Large cypress-
Slaves—Mounts Chalcis and Taphiassos-Departure for Galaxidi—Promontories of Rhion
and Antirrhion-Promontory of Drepanon—Nepaktos–Description of Galaxidi—Dance and
carnival of the inhabitants—Costumes
111
CHAPTER V.
Departure for Salona—Ancient ruins called Agia Euphemia-Salona, the ancient Amphissa ; inha-
bitants, produce—Visit to the Voivode—To Krisso, the ancient Krissa-Discordance of authors
concerning that town and Kirra—Krissæan plain
143
CHAPTER VI.
From Krisso to Kastri-Sepulchral chambers—Situation of Delphi-Kastriotes—Kastalian spring-
The rocks Phaidriades—Temple of Apollo—The prophetic, or oracular cavern—The serpent
Pytho—Stadium—Convent of the Kalogeroi-Ruins near it-Detached masses of rock-The
cave of Sybaris on Mount Kirphis-River Pleistos—The vale of Delphi, and situation of the
ancient town—Echo-Coíns of Delphi
162 CHAPTER VII.
From Kastri to Distomo_Sepulchres near the Kastalian spring—Sacred way-Sepulchral monu-
ment_Village of Arakoba—Remains of an ancient city—The Triodos and tomb of Laios-
Distomo, anciently Ambrysos—To Daulis–Ruins of the city—Mount Parnassos—To Agios-
Blasios, anciently Panopeus—Ruins of the city–To Libadea-Description of an Archon's
house-Locusts—Oracular cavern of Trophonios - To Kapourna, anciently Chæroneia–Ruins
of the city
- Page 194
CHAPTER VIII.
To Skripou, anciently Orchomenos-Plain of Chæroneia-Ruins of Orchomenos— Treasury of Minyas
-Lake Kopais, its towns, rivers, and mountains-Outlets of the lake-River Cephissos-
Village of Romaiko_Village of Granitza–Return to Libadea—To Mikrokoura, anciently
Haliartos-Ruins of the city-Eremo-Kastro, anciently Thespeia-Ruins of the city— To
Kakosia, anciently Thisbe-Ruins of the city-Mount Helicon—To the village of Katsikabeli
-To Thebes
225
CHAPTER IX.
Thebes, Kadmeia-Gates and remains of the town-Character of the ancient and modern Thebans-
Villages in the Theban territory-To Kokla, anciently Platæa–Ruins of the city-Ancient
arms—Mount Cithæron—To Egypto-Kastro, anciently Eleutherai–Ruins of the town—The
Diodos Village of Kondoura-To Athens--Eleusinian plain—The plague-Arrival at
Athens
262
CHAPTER X.
Monument of Lysikrates-Convent of Missionaries—View from it-Acropolis of Athens-Dispute
with the Disdar— Theatre of Herodes Atticus-A portico-Another theatre-Monument of
Thrasyllos-Tripodial columns-Cave in the east end of the Acropolis rock—Another with
viches—Ancient steps cut in the rock-Makrai Petrai-Cave of Pan—Turkish burying-place
-Walls of the Acropolis-Walls of the town
. 288
CHAPTER XI.
Entrance to the Acropolis-Colossal inscribed pedestal-Propylæa and contiguous buildings, The
frusta of the Propylæan columns united with wood— The Parthenon-Sculpture taken down,
and part of the temple destroyed-Bad effects of the dilapidation upon the minds of the inhabitants
-Destruction of several remains of antiquity by the Turks-Painted ornaments on the Par-
thenon, and sculptare-Shields suspended on the temple-Painted sculpture — The Erechtheion
-Double temples—Eleusinian marble-Ancient windows-Caryatid portico-Modern buildings
within the Acropolis Plants -
Page 310
CHAPTER XII.
The Areiopagos_Temple of Theseus-Painted sculpture-Gymnasium of Ptolemy-Doric portico
- Tower of the Winds-Dance of Derwisches-Ruins at the church of Megale Panagia-
Corinthian ruins in the Bazar—Other imperfect remains--Modern walls and gates of Athens-
Arch of Hadrian- Temple of Jupiter Olympios-Monument of Philopappos-Panorama of
Athens Excavations and sepulchres in the Museum-hill-Various kinds of magic practised in
Greece-Pnyx-Votive offerings-Several imperfect remains—Bridge of Hadrian—The Sta-
dium-Academy-Colonos-Village of Padischah - - - 361
CHAPTER XIII.
Way to the Piræus Tumuli—The long walls-Port Piræus--Single Ionic column and sarcophagus
-Supposed tomb of Themistocles-Port Mounychia-Doric temple-Subterraneous chambers
-Other remains-Port Phaleron-Cape Kolias-Ancient Piræan quarries-General view from
the Piræus—Piræan necropolis— The opening of several tombs, and description of their contents
-Bronze inscriptions of the magistrates Diodorus and Deinias-Imprecatory inscription on a
lamina of lead-Description of some Ceramic vases found at Athens Duplicate vases—Modern
burials—Return to Athens -
416
CHAPTER XIV.
Attic rivers—Ilissos—Remains on its banks—Mystic caves-Fount Enneakrounos--Cascades, and
overflowing of the Ilissos— The Cephissos— The Eridanos-Attic mountains Laurion, Anudros,
Hymettos-Its monasteries, villages, and antiquities-Discovery of an ancient city near the
marble quarries-Panorama from its summit-Mount Pentelikon-Its monasteries, villages, and
antiquities–Marble quarries-Mount Parnes-Its monasteries, villages, and antiquities-
Village of Kasha-Castle of Phyle-Nymphæum-Mount Korydallos-Mount Aigaleos View
of the Saronic gulf from its summit-Seat of Xerxes-Mount Anchesmos-Other smaller bills
in the plain
- Page 468
CHAPTER XV.
Travelling in Attica-Hospitality-Ruins of Acharnæ-Colossal marble lion near Hymettos-Re.
mains of some demoi between Cape Kolias and Cape Zoster-Village of Cephissia-Palaio
Brauna, and Brauna-Port Raphte-Antiquities in the islands of the port_Village of Keratea
-Ruins of Thorikos-Ancient shafts of the silver mines, and ruins on Laurion-Scoria—Pro-
montory of Sunium-View from it-Doric temple--Metochi of Alegrina—Village of Kataphiki
-Port Anaphisi—Villages Andamesi and Elimbos, and ancient remains-Village of Bari-Cave
near it-Cape Zoster-Ancient remains-Arrive at Athens
518
CHAPTER XVI.
The island of Ægina—Land at the old port-Ruins of the ancient city-Remains of a Doric temple
-Compendium of the history of the island—Soil and produce—Visit to the temple of Jupiter
Panhellenios—The temple and statues—Return to the port, and departure for the island of
Salamis-Land at a deserted port-Proceed and land at a monastery—Description of it,
Panoramic view from a mountain in Salamis–Voyage to Eleusis—Compendium of its history
-Return by sea to Athens-Small islands in the gulf—Ancient castle in Salamis - Islands of
Psyttalia and Atalanta-Port Phoron-Piræus -
558