establishment also contributed fruit, said to be excellent for jellies, of what was named the "Tree Tomato of Chili." The fruit was eggshaped, brownish red, and said to be agreeable. The leaves were large, downy, and heart-shaped, and had an unpleasant odour. The plant was stated to be Solanum betaceum. Certificates were awarded for both these productions.

From E. J. Cooper, Esq., of Markree Castle, Sligo, came a collection of Citrons, consisting of nine varieties of this kind of fruit. The more interesting among them, in a botanical point of view, were C. Limetta, a small sort of Lime having a young fruit growing out of the crown of the old one, a curious peculiarity if constant; but whether this be so or not was not ascertained. The other, named C. Mellarosa, bore considerable resemblance to a Tomato, being flattened at the base and top, and ribbed, showing a disposition in the parts to separate, as in the case of the Chinese figured Citron. This latter was stated to be highly perfumed, and to make a most delicious preserve. It was mentioned that the trees which produced these fruits are all planted in the bed of the Orangery, and are in the most flourishing condition. It was mentioned that twenty-five varieties of Lemons, Oranges, and Citrons, are cultivated at Markree Castle. A certificate was awarded to the excellent gardener, Mr. M'Intyre for this exhibition.

ON CULTIVATING THE GLADIOLUS IN POTS FOR THE CONSERVATORY, GREENHOUSE, AND SITTINGROOM.

BY A NORLEMAN'S FLOWER GARDENER.

Most of the readers of the Florists' Magazine are acquainted with this lovely tribe of flowers; the long known Gladiolus communis, or Sword Lily, with its showy spikes of purple-crimson blossoms, being a deservedly admired ornament of our gardens. In years remotely gone by, I recollect even this fine species being generally grown in pots, and limited to the greenhouse and sitting-room for its habitation, and few plants are more handsome or ornamental for the conservatory, greenhouse, and sitting-room, than the fine species and varieties we now possess. I append a list to these remarks of the kinds under my care, and all of which I cultivate a portion in pots for indoor ornament; the beautiful variety of colours, handsomely formed spikes, in which the flowers are produced, in addition to the long period of blooming alike, combine to render them deserving of every attention, and their beauty will amply repay for all.

The compost I use is good turfy sandy peat and turfy loam, that has been prepared in a heap for some months previous, and well rotted vegetable mould. These are incorporated together in equal portions, and I use the compost in a rough state, unsifted but chopped. The time of potting is the end of Sepember or first week in October. I give a free drainage of crocks and pieces of fibry turf. The _pots I use are nine inches in diameter at the top, inside measure. I place one bulb each of five different kinds in a pot, one, the tallest growing,

ON THE CULTURE OF THE IXIA.

19

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in the centre, and the others around at equal distances. After being potted they are placed in a cool frame, and when they begin to pushi forth, I take a few pots at a time to further their growth into the gentle forcing-house for early spring bloom, and, for afterwards, from the frame into the conservatory or greenhouse. When the plants have pushed several inches, I give liquid manure twice a week to contribute to their vigour, and soft-water liberally at other times. The red spider is partial to the foliage, but I prevent their attack by frequent syringing the leaves, but avoiding the flowers. If an attack has been made, wet the leaves and dust them with common sulphur, let it remain a few days, then wash it off, this will settle the affair. When the bloom is over, and the leaves begin to turn brown, I gradually withhold water, and at length lay the pots on their sides in an open shed, where they remain till time to repot.

Gladiolus Ada, crimson and white.

bride, white and pink, pretty.
blandus, delicate flesh-colour.
Byzantinus, Constantinople red.
cardinalis, large, scarlet.
carneus, a pretty flesh-colour.
coccineus nanus, dwarf, showy.
communis, purple, and very strong.
pallidus, pale purple.

Colvillii, rich scarlet and yellow.
cnchantress, crimson, rose and white.
floribundus, citron-coloured.

gandavensis, scarlet and yellow, a very fine flower.
gloria mundi, orange, scarlet with crimson marking.
Hellas, salmon-colour, a distinct variety.
incomparabilis, pure white with scarlet marking.
invincible, crimson and blue.

Maid of Orleans, blush white with scarlet.

Island Queen, orange, scarlet and peach colour.
Rising Sun, new scarlet.

roseus major, large, rose colour.

royal scarlet, scarlet and white.

Semiramis, crimson-maroon.
speciosissimus, a most showy variety.
Thalia, crimson-maroon and white.

trimaculatus, red and white, spotted.

tristis, brown and yellow.

zebra, blush with red striping.

Zulema, chocolate, white mark.

ON THE CULTURE OF THE IXIA.

THIS is a lovely tribe of flowers, and when properly grown most abundantly repays for every attention. We seldom see them now-a-days

either in nurseries or private establishments, and the reason assigned is, they are difficult to grow in a satisfactory manner. They have, however, been grown admirably, and may be again, by the use of similar

means.

The Ixia must have a sandy turfy-peat to be grown properly in pots. It must not be sifted but chopped into small pieces, and have a liberal drainage of crocks and fibry pieces of peat. About the middle of September is the best time for re-potting or renewing them. If a stock has to be procured in bulbs, put several in a pot, cover them an inch, do not water at the time of potting, place them in a cool pit frame, and when it is evident roots are issuing forth into the soil then give a smallish proportion of water, increasing as the plants grow. When the plants have ceased blooming and the foliage has decayed it is the usual practice to take the bulbs out of the soil, and in dry condition to keep them in a seed drawer, &c. Now this is injurious, and the result is a puny bloom the succeeding season. The method to be pursued when the foliage is decayed is as follows:-Let the pots be placed on their sides, on the back shelf of a greenhouse, or similar light warm situation, say at the foot of a south-aspected wall (taking care mice do not feast upon the bulbs) till the beginning of September, then turn up the pots and give them one free watering, this will usually start them, or at most, another watering will. As soon as it is perceived that they are pushing forth give the following attention:If the pot be very closely filled with bulbs then turn out the ball as entire as possible, carefully remove any portion of the drainage adhering to it, also remove from the top part of the ball all soil which is above the bulbs. These matters being done, and having a larger sized pot properly prepared with drainage, and an inch or two of the sandy peat over it, then place the ball upon it, so that it will admit of fresh soil around, as well as a portion over the surface. The bulbs remaining in the position they had grown the previous season, grow and bloom far more vigorously than when shook out of the soil, &c. After planting, the pots must be placed in a cold pit frame under the front wall where they will be shaded, and be kept there uncovered, as long as the weather will permit, and then only protecting them from frost. When the time arrives for putting the sashes over them the pots must be raised up, so as to be about a foot from the glass, and be where they can have full light. They will bloom well if kept wholly in such a pit frame, or be removed to the greenhouse. The very numerous species and varieties, with their many richly contrasted colours, blooming so profuse as they do when well grown, most abundantly repay for any labour bestowed. I am an amateur gardener, resident in London, and labour under disadvantages as to situation, but I am very amply repaid for the attention given, by a beautiful bloom from February, and with the later blooming kinds up to the end of July.

TEW YEAR'S DAY reminds us that the FLORAL LABOURS of 1848 have been brought to a close. Nature's operations have been done well, and the results displayed through each successive season of the year in woodland shades and wide-spread plains, on majestic hills and through lovely dales, combining with the loveliest spot of all, THE FLOWER GARDEN, have continuously proclaimed how readily and cheerfully the will ofthe Creator has been obeyed. Ours has been the felicity to behold with wonder, and adoringly we have been led to exclaim, "How manifold are Thy works, O Lord, in wisdom hast Thou made them all!"

What a rich delight is realized, both to body and mind, in collecting vegetation's floral beauties together, and in an imitative Paradise attend to cultivate and dress it! It affords a three-fold pleasure, and which of us have not been delighted whilst engaged in cultivating our flowers? and does it not afford pleasure in reflecting upon the successful results of the year, and in now possessing and increasingly providing a store for future display? Then there is the delight of anticipation. And how cheering it is to behold the promise of future beauty, even now, in the peeping forth of the Snowdrop, the Crocus, and the Daffodil; with the budding forth of the Honeysuckle, and to inhale the fragrance of the Mezereum bloom.

To the Florist, however, all seasons have a charm, and the garden is of perpetual interest: each successive day of an ever progressive year brings forth its claims to attention; and, first,

In severe weather be careful to protect all tender things, and on all favourable occasions remove such coverings as can conveniently be done, in order to dispel the damp air. See that all newly planted shrubs remain secure, so that they are not loosened by the wind, and a little mulch over the roots is very beneficial. During hard frosts all beds on lawns requiring raising with soil should be done, to avoid injuring the grass by wheeling. If any heads of tender Standard and Climbing Roses are still unprotected, they ought at once to be secured. As we have often recommended, this is best done by tying a covering of furze over them; it is better than straw, because it admits sufficient air to benefit the plant. Continue to collect, during the frosty weather, all kinds of soils and manures that are wanted, turfs to rot into turfy loam, sand, clean loam, peat, horse and sheep droppings, and le ves to rot, if not done already.

FLORIST'S FLOWERS.-Auriculas always get through the winter best when kept rather dry, and carefully freed from decayed leaves,

with just sufficient protection as may be requisite to preserve them from being frozen. A severe frost injures the embryo flower. Give air on all favourable occasions. These are the general rules to bear in mind this month, and should be strictly adhered to if the weather be severe, but if the temperature of the atmosphere is generally mild, then the supply of water may be gradually increased, as the plants will have been excited, and if suffered to languish at this time the strength and beauty of their bloom will be much impaired. Most people who raise seedling Auriculas sow the seed in the early part of this month, although some defer the practice until a month or six weeks later, when light and warmth have increased, and when less care attends them. Polyanthuses may be treated similarly, remembering they are not so easily affected by moisture, but as soon receive injury if in want of it. Carnations and Picotees require air as freely and water as sparingly as possible. The taste for these beautiful and highly fragrant flowers is much increasing, and we are glad of it; few are so inviting. If you have not yet, as we have recommended, bought in those you intend to do, delay no longer, or you may be disappointed, or put off with inferior plants. Our accounts of the flower shows and notes of new flowers will furnish you with useful information of their quality. These are a few of the best of the new ones we saw- -Scarlet Bizarres: Lord Radcliffe (Holliday's); Hamlet (Hepworth's). Crimson Bizarres: Thomas Hewlett (Holliday's); Sarah Payne (Ward's). Purple Flakes: Earl Spencer (Barringer's). Rose Flakes: Ariel (May's). Picotee, red-edged: Gem (Youell's); Jenny Lind (Edmund's); King James (Headly's). Purple-edged: Amy (Burrough's); Miss Dake (Barringer's). Rose-edged: Venus (Headly's).

Pinks and Pansies in beds having had a thin layer of light sod around them require little more attention now than seeing that the lateral branches are secured by pegs so as to steady them from injury by wind, and if it comes on very severe place a flower-pot over each, taking care to remove them on the first favourable change. Fir or Yew branches, a foot or so high, pricked round the bed is an excellent protection from wind, and a few stuck in among the plants is useful in severe weather. A sprinkling of soot over the bed tends to preserve the Pinks from rabbits and snails. Pinks or Pansies in pots should be uncovered in mild weather, so that they may receive the benefit of free air and gentle showers. Ranunculuses and Anemones planted last autumn may be protected from injury by frost, if garden mats are secured over the bed. The bed for planting in next month should now be turned over for the last time, pick out all worms, and give it a slight sprinkling of lime, then spread the bed evenly, and it will be consolidated by the planting period. Choice Hyacinths may be protected by similar means, or by placing an inverted garden-pot over each. Dahlia roots stored safely from frost are not necessarily secure from decay, but require examination to remove all that seem damping or shrivelling, potting them in rather dry soil, and placing them in a warm frame. The best sorts, of which a large stock is desired, will, about the latter part of the month, require potting and placing in the frame, gradually inducing them into activity. Tulips still require to