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pulation had increased from six to fourteen | thatch fastened down with a cross work of thousand, without any addition to the de- straw-ropes. cent society of the place. Poor Scotch and poor Irish made up the number, and the place was swarming with poor, without either manners or morals.

Some few of the carts had the old original wheels, as in the north of Spain; one of them we saw on the road, laid against a bank for a style. Symptoms of Scotland soon appeared—we met sheep drovers with the common grey plaid scarft round them, and a woman walking bare foot and carrying her shoes. Arthuret church the last English place of worship. Here Elmsley once heard an evangelical tell his congregation that the road to hell was not the safer for being well frequented. Just leaving Carlisle pass the bridges; on the sands below the cattle market is held. Skiddaw appeared in a new shape, and of more visible magnitude from distance. Beyond it the ridge of the Borrodale mountains, and I fancied-it must have been fancy, I think --that Langdale was to be seen.

Cross the line and reach Longtown, nine. A new town built in a double cross, in fact, chiefly an appendage to the Graham estate, and the work of that family. Prints of Curwen and Pitt were in the inn, and vile aquatints of views near London, among which was one on Brixton Causey. Three miles on are two turnpikes, about fifty yards asunder, one in each kingdom. There the Scotchman is said by the story to make a fortune by taking a penny from each of his countrymen who go to England, on condition of paying a shilling when he returns. To Longholm, in Dumfriesshire, twelve, along the Esk most part of the way, crossing it once. So beautiful a road I do not remember anywhere out of the lake country. A clear, loud stream, fine woods, and fine shores. Past Gilnockie on the right, the castle of Johnny Armstrong. Scotch farms have an exterior of plenty, as having no barns. All their corn is in little ricks, ten, twenty, thirty, close to the house, neatly enough shaped, and their conical

Twenty-two to Hawick. Up a long winding vale by the Euse and the Tiviot; which, why it was called pleasant Tiviotdale I did not understand, till the desolation beyond taught me. Ten miles on the road is Mosspaul Green inn, Roxburghshire, where a foot traveller might sleep. It stands in a long combe, the green hill on each side sloping down, and meeting almost in a point. This was a striking scene of pastoral solitude, a little scanty stream below. It grew dark, but our horses pushed on well, to keep company with some led ones, which had just passed us. Cross the Tiviot at Hawick. Eleven to Selkirk, in the dark, but over a country where sunshine would have been of no use.

At Langholme we had seen the first symptoms of Scotch manners; the small beer was bottled, and they gave us no cloth with our cold meat. Selkirk had the true odor Scotic. We had a dirty room, behind which I heard such long echoes, that being in a land of Bogles, I did not feel much inclined to investigate whence they proceeded till the morning. Then we found it was from a large ball room; and here was kept a machine to measure militia men, this being the county town.

Sunday, 6. Selkirk is truly a dismal place. The houses all darkly rough cast, and made still more ragged by a custom of painting the window out-frame work exactly to the shape of the wood, which the carpenter always leaves without any attention to squareness. These imperfect squares of dirty white, upon dirty rough cast, give a most dolorous appearance. A new town house, with a spire, seemed to have no business in such a place. We went to the kirk, and just walked through it; it had no other floor than the bare earth. Some vile daubings of Justice, Adam and Eve, &c. on the gallery front, its only ornaments, where there had till lately been a picture of a Souter of Selkirk taking measure of a fine lady's foot. In the kirkyard a square

mass of masonry, in which a door had lately been walled up. I took it for a vault above ground; but am told that tomb-chambers are not uncommon in Scotland. The people dismally ugly, soon old, and then bossbent; but I liked the plaid, the gray plaid, either wrapping them in wind, or scarft across in sunshine; and I liked the bonnet. The clocks here are stopped by night.

Walked seven miles to Mellrose, first in sight of the Ettrick, then of the Tweed. Passed on the way a kirkyard, with a few remains of the kirk, the ground being still regarded as consecrated. The Scotch have a great objection to lying in unhallowed ground, and also to naming the Devil otherwise than by some periphrasis, usually, it seems, a complimentary one-as the Auld gude man is his common name.1

Mellrose at length appeared, its old abbey like a cathedral; to the right the Eldon hills, high and finely shaped; the Auld gude man having broken them formerly to please Michael Scott. The ruin it were hopeless to describe-so wonderful is its beauty.2 Certain masons in the neighbourhood boast that they are descended from the builders, the family have always been of the same trade, and continue to be the best in the country. The finest window is injured by having placed the clock above it, which has cracked it above. Worse than this, they have converted the middle of the church

1 From the Greeks downwards there has been the same notion. The Furies were propitiated under the name of Eumenides; on which, instar omnium, see Müller's Eumenid. § 87.

There can be no better illustration of this superstition than SIR WALTER's own words in Rob Roy. Speaking of the Fairies," who if not positively malignant to humanity, were yet to be avoided and feared, on account of their capricious, vindictive, and irritable disposition," he puts into Baillie Nicol Jarvie's mouth these words, " They ca' them," said Mr. Jarvis in a whisper, Daoine Schie, which signifies, as I understand, men of peace; meaning thereby to make their gude will."-Vol. viii. p. 160, and note, p. 179.

The reader will not forget Sir Walter Scott's own description of Melrose.-J. W. W.

into a kirk. Miss Waugh showed me an epigram which a friend of hers had stuck up in this abominable den of sacrilegious Calvinism.

"Mellrose, within thy sacred shrine Angels might once have loved to dwell, But now there's not a decent swine Would quit his sty for such a cell." Three windows are patched up with miserable glass for this place of abomination; and to show that they are not in the right way, one way in is through the window. I saw steps leading up to one, and could not imagine for what purpose, till an old woman crawled up, pushed open a coarse wooden plank, which served to fill up one half of one division, and crept in.

The tombstones are remarkable here; some as being well executed, others as a contrast to the fine taste of the ruin. There is the bust of a freemason, raised in a hollow frame, with the mystic signs of his craft, upon one of the most remarkable.

Returning, we saw the junction of the Tweed and Ettrick, which we had before passed unnoticed. An old house stands near the angle of their junction, well covered with wood.

Monday, 7. Seven miles to Ashiestiel, Walter Scott's. We forded the Ettrick, and soon came in sight of the Tweed, proceeding along its banks, or in sight of them, instead of crossing the bridge, which is the direct road to Edinburgh. Scott took us over the hills to see the Yarrow, a classic stream. It winds from a solitary and sorrowful country. This a quiet and beautiful vale-more beautiful because all around it is so dreary. I forded it on foot, the water not being above my boots. The greyhounds killed a young hare on the opposite shore, odd as it may seem, the first I ever saw taken. Newark castle stands on a little knoll above the water, wooded on that side, one of the old square towers of the old border banditti. Some ten men were once shot within its court. In fact, every place here has its tale of murder. We did not ask the

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name of a single place without a story in reply that somebody had been killed there. Some cousins of Scott's came to dinner. Tuesday, 8. Had Scott's horses not been out of order, we should have gone to St. Mary's Loch, from whence the Yarrow proceeds, and where the flower of Yarrow is said to have lived. The boys still point out the scene of that tragedy. We therefore merely walked up the river to Elibank castle, another of the square towers. They are carrying away its ruins to build a bridge upon the adjacent road to Peebles. The young laird of this place was taken in one of his marauding parties by the Scotts, who were about to hang him, but the old lady of the clan offered him her daughter, Wide-mouthed Meg, as an alternative. He preferred hanging; but his heart failed him when the halter was put round his neck, and Meg with her wide mouth was conveyed as his bride to Elibank, where the marriage was celebrated; she was an excellent wife.

Wednesday 9th. Went salmon-spearing on the Tweed, being the last day of the sport. I had a spear, and managed one side of the boat. I saw the sport without partaking of it. Three were taken, being all we saw. One had the mark of an old wound in his back, a cruel sport, though of all fishing the best. The savage grin of joy in one of the men, when stooping down till only his chin was above water, (he had got a salmon by the tail, Scott's spear being through the creature's nose,) would have been in character for a Dog-ribbed Indian. A Mr. Marriot came to dinner, an Oxonian tutor to some lordling near. He talked of having seen the track of a horseman on the hill; and I found that, as in a savage country, the inhabitants here can tell by the track what horse has past, and how long ago. Our evening might have done for old times; he, I and Scott reciting ballads: his was a deplorably bad business upon Purlin Jane, made by I know not whom. Scott repeated some of Hogg's, the Ettrick shepherd, who is a man of genius.

The

Thursday 10th. Eight miles to Bank house, a single inn; nine to Middleton. In the kitchen here the grate stood out, not being fastened to the chimney back. We crost the South Esk and the North Esk. Pentland hills appeared on to the left, to the right Arthur's seat. Past through Laswade and Dalkeith, and by Craig Millar Castle, a dirty coal road; the city where we entered dirty and dismal also.

Friday 18th. By stage to Carlisle. Saw a broken chamberpot used as a beehive; excellent Scotch economy! That part of the road which we lost by going to Ashiestiel very beautiful. Selkirk looked well on the hill, with its townhouse spire, before we crost the Ettrick. Beyond Hawick we past Branksome close on the right, Tiviot flowing close on the other side of the road; it is the Cheviot hills which we cross between this place and Langholme. Dined at Hawick, and bought a red nightcap and cravat there to travel in, things for which the town is famous. Delayed there for the late arrival of the coach from Carlisle; a miserable journey with foundered horses from Langholme the rest of the way, so that we did not arrive till half-past two in the morning, having been nineteen and a half hours.

Saturday 19th. Parted with Elmsley, and set off on foot, a long straight road through a flat country, till I came near Dalston, where there is an old hall, a very picturesque building; the Caldes here has left more marks of inundation than I ever saw elsewhere; it must be a most ungovernable stream. Through Hawksdale up to Warne Fall. I had been directed to make for Uldale, but here found Caldbeck so near, that I took that road in preference. Saw the Hook once more, though almost dry. Took bread and cheese at Hesketh New Market. Three portraits on board in the little inn, of what nation I could not guess; the face not very unlike a Chinese, but certainly not Chinese; they were women, and so alike, that I conclude they were sisters. The head dress as here in Charles the Second's days, but with outlandish ornaments appended to

the hair, and the drawing evidently not European. Here also a coarse print of the tree of Fortune; she is shaking the tree, standing in it, and men below catching what falls, bags of money, axes, halters, wives, &c. Home by Mosedale, under Carrack Fell, Bowskell Fell, and Souter Fell to Threlkeld.

Cumbrian Customs, &c.

Ir was believed that any married woman whose married name was the same as her maiden one, might prescribe at hazard for the hooping (here called the king) cough, and that be the prescription what it would, its success was certain. The same held good of a person riding on a piebald horse. Jackson being once so mounted, was stopt by a man with this salutation, "Honest friend of a pyebald horse, tell me what's good for the king cough ?"

APPLE or pear laking is still practised; last week there was one at Portinscale. It is merely this, whoever has either fruit to sell and cannot readily find a market, proclaims an apple laking, that is, a dance to which all who like go, and every one paying threepence, fourpence, or sixpence, receives in return a proportioned number of apples.

THE Borrowdale people used formerly to come down every summer and clear away the bar at the junction of the Greta and Derwent, in the latter river. Philosopher Banks, just dead, remembered to have been at this work, which prevented floods.

THE fiddlers at Ambleside used to play before the people as they came out of church on Christmas day, and so go round the parish.

LAKE v. to play. Sax. lacan ludere. MæsGot. laikan, exultare. Piers Ploughman, layke. -LAKING, s. a plaything. BROCKETT's Gloss. J. W. W.

LORD CARRICK() was lately benighted at Seatoller, and got a night's lodging atFishers; the good woman put him in her own bed, and he expressed himself perfectly delighted at seeing that rural contentment and happiness which, till now, he had only heard of. In the morning, he said how well he had slept, &c.: "I have slept in many houses," said he, "but never was more hospitably entertained, and in all my life I never slept under so fine a quilt. I have been trying to find out what manufactory it is, but all to no purpose; in all my life I never saw anything like it, nor so fine." "Lord help ye," says the old dame, "manufactory indeed! I made it myself; 'tis patch work, bits of the children's gowns, and of my own that I sowed together."

As the oat harvest was carrying home, I saw yesterday two carts, with each a scare crow stuck in it, ghastly figures enough, looking, at a little distance, just as one should wish to see Joseph Bonaparte make his entrance into Madrid. Sept. 18th,

1808.

ST. CRISPIN, October 25th, is kept here by the shoemakers. Masters and men go out hunting, and have a supper of “roast goose and such like" on their return. They rest from work on this day, because they say Christ rested on his way to Calvary at a shoemaker's stall. This evening (1808), a boy who followed them out, has been stormstruck, and was brought home to all appearance dead; he is, however, restored. It began to rain about nine in the morning, and so heavy a storm I scarcely ever remember, as has been raging without intermission till this time (seven o'clock). The floods are already very deep.

THERE is a shaft called the Wad2 hole near White Water Dash. Foxes frequent it.

2 Wad is the Cumbrian name for black-lead. A wad-pencil is a black-lead pencil.-J. W. W.

I ever saw; a long wide street of steep ascent, with the market house at bottom, and church behind it, and the castle at the top. The keep is ancient, and has merely been kept in repair; most of the other parts are little more than a century old. There are the pictures of the Earl of Cumberland (George, in Elizabeth's days), and his family; and several of the famous Countess of Pembroke. And there is the earl's armour, a beautiful suit inlaid with gold. We were surprised at its apparent shortness, which I explained to my own satisfaction by observing that it exceeds the breadth of the human figure, but not its heighth. It is very fine to walk on the terrace of this castle, with the Eden below, and see the rooks' nests on a level with you, so steep is the declivity.

APPLEBY is one of the prettiest towns | makers at work; the fields, some covered with newly fallen grass, others with the hay in cocks, and yet the grass which had been just cut, brightly green. It was very hot; that house with the old sycamores, which we see on the left before us in descending into the vale, appeared an enviable spot, so delightful did their deep shade appear! Very, very hot; not a breath of air, and the flies followed us all up the side of Wanthwaite, to the very highest point; henceforth I will carry a fan. The great mogul himself, if he travelled here, must be his own fly-flapper. We obtained an accession of these tormentors in passing a party of kine, many of whom had got within a sheepfold for the sake of its little shade; the flies seemed to prefer man-flesh to beef. Certes a gig might travel this road. Saddleback is seen to more advantage hence than from any other point; its deep ravines, with all the strongest colourings of light and shade. Skiddaw assumes a new form. Down Materdale is very fine; to come up it is far less so.

Brougham castle is a very fine ruin, and the view from it of the near junction of the Eden and Lowther, with Carlton (Wallace's house), and its park, exceeding beautiful.

WORKINGTON. In the church is a large altar-piece, painted by a man of the town. On the first Sunday that it was opened, the people were greatly surprised to recognize one another's portraits, which the artist, unknown to them, had adopted for his figures; two ladies of the place were the angels. The poor man's hopes were disappointed! they were not gratified at being thus immortalized by an unskilful hand, and he probably made the picture worse by endeavouring to destroy the likenesses.

The organist has lately been dismissed; and in consequence, the organ has been injured by some of his friends.

At Araforce, one or two deer are lost every year; being accustomed to cross the Beck, they attempt it when the torrent is too strong, and are carried down the fall.

Poor Charles got one of his bilious attacks. I was obliged to leave him in bed, and went with Richards and a boy, whom Luff sent to guide us up Place Fell, to Angle Tarn. The ascent commands Paterdale. The Tarn is about two and a half miles from Paterdale. We guest it at about a mile round. It has two islands, and a peninsula, which, from many points of view, appears like a third. The shores are not high, but finely formed, and you see the mountains

Workington is a very ugly town, and above them, forming as it were a second might have been a very fine one.

July 20th, 1809. THROUGH Materdale with Danvers to Paterdale. Scarcely ever did I see any thing so fine as the Vale of St. John's. Wanthwaite, and that whole range was in deep shade (seven o'clock). Naddle and the valley in bright sunshine; the hay

boundary, with an outline very similar in form. About two miles or something less to Hayes Water, lying under High Street; its shape a cove intersected by a straight line, beautifully clear. Luff told us, after we returned, what he should have told us before, that at the head are a number of small cones, perfectly formed, and covered

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