early morning, as the sun in all the glory of its tropical fire slowly rises above the horizon and disappears again behind the bank of clouds at your feet, to reappear again with greater force and power above, lighting up with its golden splendor the crest of the crater on which you are standing, it is a sight surely without a parallel."

Maui is about eighty miles from Honolulu, and in a southeasterly direction.

Hilo, to which I now come, is about five hours' ride, with a good native horse, from the Crater Kilauea.

It is second to Honolulu, but compares with it as well as a china doll with a two-year-old baby! Still, far be it from me to contract Hilo, or detract from its true size in any way. If it is not a big city, there is land enough to cut one out of when the time comes; and it need never be more beautiful when full-grown than it is now! There is a sea-breeze every day, which Honolulu can well covet! and 150 inches of rain in a year, which is quite enough to keep drouth at a distance!

There are plenty of churches for any who are Catholics or Presbyterians; and if you are neither, you can enter either, at any service, and always find a welcome!

And let me tell you right here, that at these islands, you will be expected to attend some place of worship: "Ua mau ke Ea o ka Ainai ka Pona" will meet your eye at every turn! The homes here are lovely; and the folks living in them just the right kind to meet. Not

a pilikia to be found when you travel by the way of Hilo! Two nights' and one day's sail, by steamer from the Capital.

66

More things are wrought by prayer

Than this world dreams of. Wherefore, let thy voice
Rise like a fountain for me night and day.

For what are men better than sheep or goats,
That nourish a blind life within the brain,

If, knowing God, they lift not hands of prayer,

Both for themselves and those who call them friend.

For so, the whole round earth is every way

Bound by gold chains about the feet of God."

HONOLULU.

N Honolulu, almost everybody rides or drives, dur

ing the heat of the day at least, and many give up the exercise of walking out o' doors nearly altogether. One may any day walk two miles, night or morning, and not meet two ladies the entire road.

Nearly every family owns one horse or more, poor or good, (for native horses are quite cheap), and some sort of a vehicle, even if it be nearly as old as "the deacon's one-hoss shay."

They drive to church, and they drive to market, and to their work and home again, and to call on friends, and to lunch, and for health, and for illness, and to kill time; and doubtless some of the ladies would drive from the veranda to the dining-room, if it could be managed!

In the early morning hours of that supremely glorious climate, when, especially after showers of the night, all seems like fairy land indeed-the magnificent trees, the gorgeous climbers (which seem never satisfied in their ambition until they can throw their robe of color over and to the top of every wall, fence and cottage within reach), the intense green of the lawns, the deep blue of the sky, with the great masses

of fluffy white clouds, slowly drifting about, just over the tops of the hills when all nature is entirely flooded with light and glory; and when it seems a joy just to be alive, and out, walking in this most perfect and delicious atmosphere; or, in "the cool of the day," when all work here is ended (pau)—when the shadows begin to lengthen, and when the skies are changing the color of their dress every few minutes; and the planets, one after another, are solemnly appearing, and taking their places, in the dome of heaven. -when in nature all is silent, at rest, gone to sleep, the trees standing like colossal giants carved in stone, their exquisite shadow-work (high art-sky art) thrown on the road, with not the quiver of a leaf, a breath of wind-perfect repose, marvelous to behold!

"The warlike elf much wondered at the tree,

So fair and great, that shadowed all the ground."

It did really seem to me as if all the spirits of earth and heaven-good angels, elves, and fairies were awake and abroad on nights like these to revel in the glory. "The heavens declare the glory of God; and the firmament showeth His handiwork."

"Tis twilight now;

The sovereign sun behind his western hill
In glory hath declined. The mighty clouds,
Kissed by his warm effulgence, hang around
In all their congregated hues of pride,
Like pillars of some tabernacle grand,
Worthy his glowing presence; while the sky
Illumined to its center, glows intense,

Changing its sapphire majesty to gold.

How deep is the tranquillity! the trees

Are slumbering through their multitude of boughs,
Even to the leaflet on the frailest twig!

A twilight gloom pervades the distant hills;
And azure softness mingling with the sky."

"All heaven and earth are still,-though not in sleep,
But breathless, as we grow when feeling most;
And silent, as we stand in thoughts too deep :-
All heaven and earth are still: From the high host
Of stars, to the lulled lake, and mountain coast,
All is concentered in a life intense,

Where not a beam, nor air, nor leaf is lost,
But hath a part of being, and a sense

Of That which is of all Creator and Defense.'"

At these times, even, walking is ignored by the foreigner; and you can have the road to yourself, undisturbed but by a native now and then! The climate is thought by many to be enervating, and it is not the "fashion" to walk-not considered "good form." How do the ladies manage to keep their health? That I cannot say. But they do not die there faster than anywhere else, that I could discover. For ane thing I can vouch: Doctors in Honolulu are a good deal "thicker than blackberries." They may be seen at all hours of the day, riding or driving from one point of the compass to another, with fine turnouts; themselves looking comfortable and content.

It occurred to me at one time, that if any more should come, without the means of returning, a "house of refuge" or a "charity" of some sort would have to be founded for their relief. But I had made a miscal