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fine a “green” as spinach or cabbage-sprouts. Poi is made from the taro; and taro, boiled or baked, is as good as the best Irish potato, and more strengthening, it is thought. It is very nice sliced, after boiling, and fried or toasted. The bread-fruit, too, is very gooda hole made in the top and filled with salt, over night, then baked or boiled. One is enough for a small family. The mountain apple (ohia), of a purplish-red color and pointed end, spongy, white, and filled with sweetest juice, is often found very grateful to the taste in riding. The milk from a fresh cocoanut will restore an over-tired man, and any native will climb a tree, going up sixty feet, if necessary, to get them! These trees are often from forty to sixty feet in height, and bear fruit for seventy years and more!
Some of the best fish is very scarce, for the natives are very fond of fish, and eat it as well as catch it! Mullet is very good, quite plentiful, but never cheap. Beef, without ice, must be cooked the day of its killing. Good mutton is not plentiful in Honolulu.
Many of the natives are Roman Catholics. The splendor of the ritual, the lights, the colors, are pleasing to them, and the music charms them. The priests are unselfish men, and win good-will “and golden opinions from all sorts of people.” They live, certainly, in the plainest fashion, and will go by day or night to serve their converts, when sick or dying. There are also many Presbyterians on the Islands, as well as members of the English Church. Kalakaua belonged to the latter, as does the Queen-dowager Kapiolani.
Probably the worst storm I saw in the seven years came in the summer-time! when it rained in torrents for two days, and heavy thunder and lightning all one night, from every quarter of the heavens, seemingly. It rains in showers, day after day, in the “rainy season," laughing, happy, good-natured, sunshiny showers (just like the natives themselves), and twenty times in a day! You will see it coming down like a thin gauze veil-and the sun is out, of course, and you need hardly trouble to raise your umbrella.
You will see the “rainbow-showers" morning after morning, and night after night. You will awaken to the heavy tramp and thud of rain in the night, coming in pailfuls! And you will see, a few times in the year, the oncoming of the storm-king, “Kona.” Like a wild animal from his lair he will advance and retreat, back and fill-back and fill; but when he is at his height, streams will swell to rivers in a few hours, trees will fall, streets and roads will soon be deserted; and, for two or three days in Honolulu, he will not find any one brave enough to meet his eye or combat him! And then there will be a caucus held here and there, and a gathering up of the debris ! People will draw a long breath, and business will be resumed. But these storms are seldom. They are beautiful, lifegiving and grand! It is not at all uncommon to hear the remark, “I wish we could have a good Kona.” For at times the atmosphere becomes tame, monotonous, so to speak.
TT is difficult, often, to distinguish the half-caste I from the full native, for they grow darker as they get older, and the foreign blood in them never seems to predominate, but may manifest itself prominently in some traits foreign to the full native! All of them possess an unconscious grace, in manner and bearing. The national dress of the native women, and it is much used by the foreigners as well, is the "holoku.” When cut and shaped with care and taste, and made of fine material-lawn, muslin, silk, even satin—it is as graceful and flowing a tea or breakfast gown as can be fashioned. I have seen one in white that was nothing less than an inspiration-a poem! They are often made with a loose, flowing demi-train, and tight waist in front, or the reverse, tight in the back, with flowing front, trimmed with lace and ribbons. The natives, as aļrule, go barefooted. They will wear shoes to church, but, may be, take them off on the way home-always if a rain comes up! The darkey; when questioned about taking off his hat in the rain, said, you know, that his hat was his own, but his head was his master's. They are their own masters, and can quickly explain to you in Hawaiian, that “wet feet
will not induce illness, but to walk in wet shoes, or to keep them on, will." But, wet or dry, they hate to put their feet in prison. Oh, they are Nature's loveliest children all through and through, and all the real harm they know has been taught to them, and brought to them, I am sure!
They grow crazy over Fourth of July; don't pretend to go indoors for two nights and one day! Singing and music and firecrackers, and all, all three combined, every minute! On Sundays and holidays they come in from the outlying valleys, troops of them, all on their own native horses, women riding “cavalier," dashing over the roads—for they are reckless riderswith their hats and necks, men and women both, decked with leis of ferns, flowers and maile.
They are barbaric in their choice of colors, and no figure can be too large, nor no red too red for their holokus and neckerchiefs. Their national dish is “pig and poi,” and on all state occasions—births, deaths and marriages, and, indeed, every “great time,” the black pig must walk in and die! If they like you very much, they will give you one, always. I had, unfortunately, no place to keep them, or I might have competed with Chicago in the trade. We all know that a black cat is "good luck,” but when I got to Hawaii, I found it was the “black pig," and the black cat did not fare any better than the white. It was a shock to my nerves to have my childhood's belief swept away, and I did not take kindly to the black pig. But this I can say, that the perfection of art is used in cooking one, by the natives! An oven is built in the ground, of stones, and the pig is done up in ti leaves, and put in, and the place is filled up. I don't quite know the whole process. I know the result is all that can be desired in the way of a pig done brown!
Taro, like the calla, must havé moisture and mud. The natives pull it up and sell it by the bunch-four for a quarter (hapaha). One, when boiled or baked, would make a meal for three; fine, firm, delicate and tasteless as a good potato; very nutritious, and easily digested. From this the natives make their poi, which is a thin porridge, subject to fermentation.
Europeans, as well as Americans and Asiatics, in. termarry with the Hawaiians.
On King street, in Palace Square, one of the principal streets of Honolulu, and about ten minutes' walk from the steamer's wharf, and five from the English Church and the Hawaiian Hotel, is the Iolani Palace, with its fine grounds. When the Queen is in residence the royal standard is flying. Opposite are the Government Buildings, where the Legislature holds its term. Here, too, is a fine museum, with a multitude of native curios and relics. In the grounds is a statue in bronze of Kamehameha I.
From this point you can drive on to the sea, a distance of four miles, lined with pretty houses the entire road. You will soon pass a native church-Kawaiahao-built of coral formation, just beyond the Government Buildings; and the trees will often demand your attention. If it be a moonlight night, you may notice,