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ing storm ; water was scarce, it is true,-and the table was bad!
But these steamers! I speak for myself. One would wish to live one week of every month on land, and three at sea. And such a sea! Troubles gone, cold winds forgotten; for stormy ocean a peaceful lake, warm soothing air, and a serene sky—the “Rainbow Land" just ahead of us—and a captain who will pilot safe into the port!
From Kahului, which is a tiny village on the shore, you can take a train (one passenger-car) for Wailuku, three miles inland-and a charming little place it iswith Haleakala directly in front of you, and magnificent lao Valley about a block off. Here, to make any of these trips, you will need a stout native horse, and they are often quite cheap.
In this little town of Wailuku, you will see a neat church and parsonage of the “Anglican Church Mission," a Roman Catholic Church, and a meetinghouse; as many as three stores, a Chinese restaurant, a baker's, where one kind of very poor bread is baked, a little post-office and a burying-ground.
When you find how very quiet it is, you may fancy that the people of the village are dead, or, like Rip Van Winkle, all asleep for a term of years. Where they can, they take a good deal of rest, and indulge in day-dreams. Sugar is sweet, nutritious and satisfying —and in many ways tends somewhat to luxury. It is, however, not a bad thing to “take an interest” in a well-growing field of cane, where you are sure of
rain! You will not need to fret after that, but can have pie and preserves for breakfast if you wish.
Oh, no! The villagers are not dead. They are dreaming of “grinding" cane at the next mill, at Spreckelsville, ten miles off, or at Waihee or Waikapu, half that distance, in opposite directions. I am living almost under the shadow of a cathedral, and I hear at this moment the wail of a funeral dirge. Rather a grave coincidence when I was just trying to correct your too-grave fancy as to the Wailukuans!
At Spreckelsville there are twelve thousand acres of growing sugar-cane. These fields extend for more than fifteen miles in one direction. The plantingtime is from June to November. The grinding commences in December. About one hundred tons of sugar are made in a day.
In sugar the British interests reach into the millions; but American interests are five times as large. The German comes third.
You would not wish, for a moment, to leave Iao Valley, for an entire day, at least. And at Haleakala, you can stay in the “cave” a night, can build a fire and cook meat on a stick! I saw the smoke there, even at the Parsonage, one night when some party was evidently getting supper! You need not make a wry face, for bishops have done all that in that very cave!
"From the summit of Haleakala, the most wonderful and absorbingly interesting cloud-effects can be seen. Standing on the crest of the vast crater in the early morning, as the sun in all the glory of its tropical fire slowly rises above the horizon and disappears again behind the bank of clouds at your feet, to reappear again with greater force and power above, lighting up with its golden splendor the crest of the crater on which you are standing, it is a sight surely without a parallel."
Maui is about eighty miles from Honolulu, and in a southeasterly direction.
Hilo, to which I now come, is about five hours' ride, with a good native horse, from the Crater Kilauea.
It is second to Honolulu, but compares with it as well as a china doll with a two-year-old baby! Still, far be it from me to contract Hilo, or detract from its true size in any way. If it is not a big city, there is land enough to cut one out of when the time comes ; and it need never be more beautiful when full-grown than it is now! There is a sea-breeze every day, which Honolulu can well covet! and 150 inches of rain in a year, which is quite enough to keep drouth at a distance !
There are plenty of churches for any who are Catholics or Presbyterians; and if you are neither, you can enter either, at any service, and always find a welcome!
And let me tell you right here, that at these islands, you will be expected to attend some place of worship: “Ua mau ke Ea o ka Ainai ka Pona” will meet your eye at every turn! The homes here are lovely; and the folks living in them just the right kind to meet. Not
a pilikia to be found when you travel by the way of Hilo! Two nights' and one day's sail, by steamer from the Capital.
“More things are wrought by prayer
Than this world dreams of. Wherefore, let thy voice
TN Honolulu, almost everybody rides or drives, dur1 ing the heat of the day at least, and many give up the exercise of walking out o' doors nearly altogether. One may any day walk two miles, night or morning, and not meet two ladies the entire road.
Nearly every family owns one horse or more, poor or good, (for native horses are quite cheap), and some sort of a vehicle, even if it be nearly as old as “the deacon's one-hoss shay.”
They drive to church, and they drive to market, and to their work and home again, and to call on friends, and to lunch, and for health, and for illness, and to kill time; and doubtless some of the ladies would drive from the veranda to the dining-room, if it could be managed !
In the early morning hours of that supremely glorious climate, when, especially after showers of the night, all seems like fairy land indeed—the magnificent trees, the gorgeous climbers (which seem never satisfied in their ambition until they can throw their robe of color over and to the top of every wall, fence and cottage within reach), the intense green of the lawns, the deep blue of the sky, with the great masses