Imágenes de páginas
PDF
EPUB

of fluffy white clouds, slowly drifting about, just over the tops of the hills when all nature is entirely flooded with light and glory; and when it seems a joy just to be alive, and' out, walking in this most perfect and delicious atmosphere; or, in "the cool of the day," when all work here is ended (pau)—when the shadows begin to lengthen, and when the skies are changing the color of their dress every few minutes; and the planets, one after another, are solemnly appearing, and taking their places, in the dome of heaven -when in nature all is silent, at rest, gone to sleep, the trees standing like colossal giants carved in stone, their exquisite shadow-work (high art-sky art) thrown on the road, with not the quiver of a leaf, a breath of wind-perfect repose, marvelous to behold!

"The warlike elf much wondered at the tree,

So fair and great, that shadowed all the ground."

It did really seem to me as if all the spirits of earth and heaven-good angels, elves, and fairies were awake and abroad on nights like these to revel in the glory. "The heavens declare the glory of God; and the -firmament showeth His handiwork."

"'Tis twilight now;

The sovereign sun behind his western hill
In glory hath declined. The mighty clouds,
Kissed by his warm effulgence, hang around
In all their congregated hues of pride,
Like pillars of some tabernacle grand,

Worthy his glowing presence; while the sky
Illumined to its center, glows intense,

Changing its sapphire majesty to gold.

How deep is the tranquillity! the trees

Are slumbering through their multitude of boughs,
Even to the leaflet on the frailest twig!

A twilight gloom pervades the distant hills;
And azure softness mingling with the sky."

"All heaven and earth are still,-though not in sleep,
But breathless, as we grow when feeling most;
And silent, as we stand in thoughts too deep :-
All heaven and earth are still: From the high host
Of stars, to the lulled lake, and mountain coast,
All is concentered in a life intense,

Where not a beam, nor air, nor leaf is lost,

But hath a part of being, and a sense

Of That which is of all Creator and Defense.'"

At these times, even, walking is ignored by the foreigner; and you can have the road to yourself, undisturbed but by a native now and then! The climate is thought by many to be enervating, and it is not the "fashion" to walk-not considered "good form." How do the ladies manage to keep their health? That I cannot say. But they do not die there faster than anywhere else, that I could discover. For one thing I can vouch: Doctors in Honolulu are a good deal "thicker than blackberries." They may be seen at all hours of the day, riding or driving from one point of the compass to another, with fine turnouts; themselves looking comfortable and content.

It occurred to me at one time, that if any more should come, without the means of returning, a "house of refuge" or a "charity" of some sort would have to be founded for their relief. But I had made a miscal

culation, for they came, and continued to come, in goodly numbers.

I went over my figures with more care. And I then decided, after a deliberate survey of the subject, that if there was not more than one doctor to every two families of means (you know, by the way, that "planters" are wealthy), he could prosper and do well. If he were sufficiently skillful not to kill off any of his patients, he might even accumulate money in a few years and retire.

When one comes to Honolulu, until acclimated, it always seems too warm. To work or to make any exertion is almost out of the question, and the inclination is often to simply do nothing, but to invest in day-dreams and in Spanish castles.

Such a delicious atmosphere that it is! A gentleman came to the islands from Germany. He had made a study of the English language just before starting; it may be from some one of those attractive textbooks, "English in Twelve Lessons" or "English Without a Teacher." I was convinced, from what he said, that he could read it well. He said to me one day, soon after his arrival, “It ish so varm-so varm. (I cannot talk much English vot you shpeak.) It ish so varm, I cannot eat something."

On moonlight nights it seems a sin to go indoors at all-and the natives stay up until daylight; strolling up and down the roads in groups, with leis of flowers around the neck and on the hats-barefooted, and thrumming away on a taro-patch fiddle or a cheap

guitar, keeping time to their native songs, or meles, which are endless.

66

"O how canst thou renounce the boundless store
Of charms that nature to her votary yields?
The warbling woodland, the resounding shore,
The pomp of groves, the garniture of fields.
All that the genial ray of morning gilds,

And all that echoes to the song of even,
All that the mountain's sheltering bosom shields,
And all the dread magnificence of Heaven,

O how canst thou renounce, and hope to be forgiven?"

The national hymn is "Hawaii Ponoi," and corresponds to and is not entirely unlike "America." All entertainments, public and private as well, are ended with the playing of this hymn. It is very fine. The music was composed by Berger.

"Hawaii ponoi na-na-i ko Moi,

Ka lani Alii, ke Alii.

Ma kua lani e Kamehameha e,
Na ka ua e pale, me ka i he."

The bandmaster (Royal Hawaiian Band, numbering thirty-eight instruments) is, from his great musical skill, together with his kindly and amiable nature, a great favorite, and is as much a feature of this cosmopolitan little town as "Punchbowl" (which overshadows Emma Square, a very quiet and well-behaved, tamed and friendly volcano) or as Her Majesty the Queen, and would be missed far more than the whole legislative body!

The natives are a happy, affectionate, light-hearted race; unless greatly wronged in any way, always

laughing and singing like merry children. Generous to a fault-entirely ignorant of the value of money, and never to learn it-hospitable to a degree. That is the Hawaiian.

One is very likely to get some wrong impressions, and to form erroneous opinions, to a certain extent, if remaining at the islands a short time only.

I will not admit that I am more obtuse than the average, yet I know that when resident there more than twelve months, I knew very little, comparatively speaking, of island life, or of the islanders themselves.

Almost any night or morning, a steamer can be taken at Honolulu, for Maui, and Hawaii, or for Kauai; the longest trip being to Hawaii, two nights and one day. The other three islands can be visited, infrequently. No inter-island steamer leaves on Sunday. On the Hawaiian silver coin is the motto, "Ua mau ke ea o ka ainai ka pono "-"The Strength of the Land is in Righteousness."

The channels between these islands are very rough. But business and traffic must go on in spite of winds and waves, and the islanders try not to mind it much. There is almost never an accident, so great is the care used. All the "landings" around these islands, must be made in boats. But natives are in charge of them, and so skillful and expert are they in these matters that neither traveling nor business could be carried on, to any extent, without their aid. The transportation of all the passengers, together with the machinery used on the plantations, the furniture, produce, etc.,

« AnteriorContinuar »