shiftless white man. Certainly, this will manifest itself with no uncertain signs and sounds about his dwelling; for one is sure to see, in an unkempt, untidy, native home a lot of miserable, gaunt, ragged-coated dogs.

In early times, and even later on, the natives were often induced (I am sorry to write) to part with large tracts of land, their rightful inheritance, for a good deal less than the value of a good song! But they are wiser to-day (if not happier), the gentle, laughterloving, honest-hearted race! Nearly all of them own at least enough land for their taro. A few of them are even well-to-do; some of them (as well as the foreigner) owning quite large plantation shares

The natives, if cut off from their taro (poi), grow listless and unhappy-actually pine away in no time. The taro can be boiled, and then an inch of the rough outside cut off, when it is still as large as a large Ruta Baga turnip; in color, a delicate violet or lavender, mottled a little with white, fine grain, firm, light and delicious. It can then be toasted, and tastes precisely like roasted chestnuts. It can be boiled or baked, and is good food for any meal in the day.

But the natives care nothing at all for it in any of these ways. It is made by them into a porridge, thick or thin; one-finger, two-finger, three-finger, poi. It is prepared with great care, and put into calabashes,— large bowls made of wood. Some of these are very handsome, as highly polished as rosewood, and often "a thing of beauty." I saw one, belonging to his late

Majesty, Kalakaua, of silver, in shape of a lotus blossom. But, in the native wood, koa, or other, they are much more beautiful. There are exquisite tables of these woods, inlaid, to be seen in the museum at the Government Buildings, opposite the Palace, in Honolulu. Poi, I say, is set away, covered, and as it grows more and more acid and keeps rising, like a thin batter, the bowl will likely be full until it is pau gone! Some of these bowls will hold a large quantity, but they are of different sizes. Poi is an acquired taste entirely; but if one can learn to eat it, it is almost life-giving in that climate.

Doctors often order it to be taken in milk, or water even, in fever and other ailments where nothing else can be retained. It is very nutritious and restorative. Taro is never cheap nor too plentiful. It grows in sunken, overflowed land.

When you come to a comfortable native hut on Kauai, you will see the taro patch, the running water, the cocoanuts, flowering shrubs and climbers, you may be sure, and hills not far off; for the natives have an eye to beauty and comfort. You will see, also, a plenty of light, clean, cool mats of their own making, and if the native has "not a shoe, to his foot," you can be sure he will have hats enough to his head.

It may be one can be bought of his wife, which has taken all her leisure time for a month to plait, as light and fine as if from a fairy's loom! A dainty thing enough, when trimmed with lace, for a queen's outing. It can be bought for the small sum of eight dollars.

Some of the matting is fine enough to go down as an heirloom in a family. The natives make many kinds of necklaces. Those made of the feathers of the oo sell for as much as fifty dollars. There is also one made of a pretty brown berry, with a rare, delicate perfume which never dies out. These berries are found in abundance in some spots on this island of Kauai.

The natives are intellectual to a degree, but they lack the power of reasoning and concentration; and in mathematics the American or English boy will outstrip them every time. But they can excel in penmanship and in drawing.

They have the very "soul of music" in their soul. I can say sole as well, for where they learn to dance they have, naturally, an ease and grace, difficult, as a rule, to be acquired by foreigners. And they are a nation of orators. A Hawaiian will enter a drawingroom, and, if addressed in native, will continue a conversation, or an argument, with as much composure and ease as if he had the "blood of all the Howards," Washingtons or Lafayettes in his veins.

Doubtless, when thoroughly roused, from any very great wrong or injustice-for they have a keen and correct sense of the term, justice--the savage might be clearly discerned. I have heard it said that when enraged, in early times, they owned the secret of handling a man so as to unjoint every limb of his body. But they possess no malice, nor do they premeditate any wrong. What higher meed can I give to the native when I say that, on these islands, a

woman can always look for protection and help from them, at any time or place!

Kauai is the "garden island" of the group, and as it is much smaller than Hawaii, the distances short between given points, and the roads good in certain ways, it is easier journeying than on Hawaii or Maui. At the same time, there is nothing like tight saddlebags, water-proofs, and a good native horse. These are strong, steady, not too fast, but as sure-footed as the chamois. And when I tell you that on Kauai, even, you may have to mount seven steep hills, in going three miles, you will see what is needed in the way of a carrier!

Kauai is the most northerly of the group-between 21° 47′ and 22° 46′, and is ninety miles from the Capital.

In a trip of thirty miles can be seen forests of the mountain apple (ohia), with its beautiful leaves and tempting fruit, immense banana-trees, and cocoanut, rice fields, taro patches, guava and orange, lemon and olive, kukui and koa trees; mosses, vines and ferns, passion flowers and magnolias, roses and geraniums, and countless more of brilliant and gaudy hue. Wherever you see a native, you will also see flowers. "See Hanalei and die." Well, I did see the valley, and live to write it. One thing I can say, in all truth: I shall not die, if I try to do so, in a more lovely place. We started in the early morning, jogging slowly and quietly along, up hill and down dale, passing now and then a Chinaman on foot, now and

then a native group or a native place, stopping often to exclaim of beauties on every side. After ten miles we began to mount, to reach the plateau which looks down on this trebly-enchanted vale. I recollect how anxiously I watched my horse up this almost perpendicular ascent, as patiently he plodded, sure and firmfooted, up and up, I coaxing and praising, when it seemed as if “in the nature of things" he would slip back. Will he go to the top? Indeed he will, splendid fellow that he is! I am tired, from fear; but he is not tired a whit.

How can I best describe this valley?

It seems to me that not the valley, the scenery, the hills, the trees, the sky are what strike a newcomer most forcibly-but the coloring! the million of shades and tints, the lavish wealth of color, which confounds and amazes! Living in sight of a semicircle of hills and valleys, I was constantly wondering at this, and watching the clouds as they rested often below the peaks, and on the sides. This was the first attraction, as I gazed far down into this valley; and the next-Tennyson's very own "Brook" I saw was there I knew it in a minute!

"I come from haunts of coot and hern,

I make a sudden sally,

And sparkle out among the fern

To bicker down a valley."

Of course it did, for are there not millions and millions of fern-did I not trim the whole house with them on any festive occasion?