largely due to the unfortunate habit of drinking beer from glasses instead of mugs. (459.)

7. Composition and gravity of beer.-The managing director of Arthur Guinness, Son & Co., Limited, states in an affidavit that the original specific gravity of the stout brewed by that company for export before fermentation is from 1072 to 1074, and that the stout as it is sold in the market contains about 6.1 per cent by weight of absolute alchohol and 6 per cent of solid matter. (545,546.)

Mr. HUPFEL says that the body of beer is estimated on a German scale known as kaiser. Some beer is brewed at 12 per cent kaiser and some at 10 per cent. Mr. Brown explains that 10 per cent kaiser means 10 per cent of malt extract. (379.)

8. Ale and porter.-Mr. EVANS, a brewer of ale and brewed with top fermentation and not in cold storage. same way, but is brewed with roasted malt; that gives (416.)

porter, says that ale is Porter is brewed in the it the black appearance.

9. Malt extract.-Mr. EISNER says Hoff's malt extract is made of malt and bitter principles only. Other bitter principles as well as hops are used, but the process is a trade secret. The bitters are of vegetable origin and beneficial to health. No antiseptics or preservatives are used. The extract is pasteurized at 55° Réaumur.

Mr. Eisner says that the difference between malt extract, like Hoff's, and beer, is that the malt extract contains a minute quantity of alcohol and a large quantity of malt, while beer is the other way. He declares that every brewer is now selling beer as malt extract. (432, 433.)

C. Foreign labels.-1. Genuine.-Mr. SHAND, a representative of Arthur Guinness, Son & Co., Limited, states that some of the products of this company are shipped to New York in bulk for bottling purposes, though far the greater part is bottled in Dublin, Liverpool, and London. The Guinness stout is sold for bottling to only one concern in the United States. Labels are furnished by the company itself for exactly the quantity delivered to the bottler. The company insists that these labels be used. The stout is not sold for bottling except under an agreement that the company's own label shall be affixed to each bottle put up, and that the customer will not bottle any other black beer. (547.)

2. Spurious.-Mr. BROUN, a bottler of Bass's ale and Guinness's stout, says that he receives these goods from abroad in hogsheads of 62 gallons each, and bottles them in New York. He is subjected to great trouble and loss through forgeries and colorable imitations of his labels. He has had 35 to 40 such cases in the past 5 years. The goods so fraudulently sold are in most cases of American manufacture. The labels are perfect facsimiles of the originals; in some cases made from photographs. Some cases have been prosecuted and convictions have been obtained under State laws, followed by imprisonment. Some cases have also been prosecuted in the United States courts under the trade-mark laws. There has been no trouble in getting convictions, but there has been a good deal of trouble in getting evidence. Besides the counterfeiting of labels, Mr. Broun suffers from the refilling of genuine bottles. This is very difficult to prove. These fraudulent practices involve great loss to the Government as well as to the business of the witness. Foreign ale pays a duty of $6 a barrel, while domestic ale pays an internal-revenue tax of only $2 a barrel. (399,400.)

Mr. ROCHE, who is associated with Mr. Broun in his bottling business, declares that he supposes their brand has been infringed a thousand times in the last 10 years, and a dozen convictions have been obtained. (414.)

D. Foreign brewing regulations and standards.-1. Various countries.-Mr. TнOMANN presented a letter from the editor of the Petit Journal du Brasseur, of Brussels, relating to foreign brewing regulations. It is stated that the law of Belgium permits any legitimate materials to be used. Large quantities of wheat, rice, and maize, as well as barley malt, are used, and in some districts oats and rye have formed part of the grist from time immemorial. Sugars and glucoses are also in general use. The use of antiseptics is absolutely forbidden, except that sulphurous acid and its compounds may appear in quantities not exceeding 14 milligrams of the acid to the liter of beer. The sulphurous acid is legally supposed not to be added to the beer, but to be derived from the disinfecting of the cask. In fact it is introduced into the beer. Coal tar saccharin was formerly much used, but is now forbidden. Harmless bitters and tannin may be used as hop substitutes.

All legitimate materials may be used in France, and all cereals are used. Saccharin and salicylic acid are forbidden. Sulphites seem to be tolerated, and the writer believes that fluorides and creosotes are used to some extent. Tannin and harmless bitters may be used as hop substitutes, and the use of tannin is large. Such materials as ginger, cloves, and pepper are used, though the writer believes that only inferior sorts of beer contain any considerable amount of them. The

The beers are

use of tannin is due to the dislike of the people for a bitter beer. very weak, varying from 1025 to 1045. The quantity of hops varies from 2 per cent to 3 per cent of the weight of the malt; but even the smaller quantity sometimes makes the beer too bitter. Tannin is then used in the hope that it will do for the beer what an excess of hops would do, without the disadvantage of the bitterness.

The writer believes that Bavaria is the only country in the world where barley malt, water, and hops must, by law, be the only ingredients of beer. No other State even in Germany has ever applied this regulation. (361, 362.)

Mr. BUSCH says that there is no uniform law in regard to beer in Germany. Some States forbid the use of raw grain. In Bavaria nothing can be used but hops, malt, water, and yeast. There is no standard or test of beer, even in Bavaria. A cheap beer can be made by using a common article of malt and hops and making it thin. The amount of beer to be made from a certain amount of malt is not limited by law. (489,490.)

Mr. BAUER states that in his experience in Germany the Government compelled the use of a certain amount of malt to a barrel of beer. This regulation was made for fiscal reasons, because the tax was levied on the malt and not on the beer. The Government did not fix a standard of specific gravity. (390, 391.)

2. German standard analysis.-The following table was shown to several witnesses as being the German standard of composition for beer, as established by Professor Gustav Rupp and adopted by the German Government:

Chemical combinations of 100 cubic centimeters of standard beers.

Mr. HUPFEL thinks that this represents about the average composition of beer, but he says that no two brewers will put out exactly the same product. (383.) Professor CHITTENDEN thinks that the standard suggested is a reasonable one. The quantity of alcohol agrees substantially with his experience in the analysis of ordinary beers. He has not analyzed condensed beer or malt extract. (426.) Mr. BROWN says that this standard appears to relate to a finished beer after fermentation. The composition of beer continually varies with its age. Beer which has just been brewed contains a larger percentage of sugar and malt extract and a less percentage of alcohol than beer which has stood longer. After the beer comes out of the fermenting vats a silent fermentation still goes on, and the proportion of sugar decreases and the proportion of alcohol increases. The suggested standard, showing a proportion of sugar in one case as low as 0.88 and a proportion of alcohol as great as 3.93, seems to refer to a beer which is old and thoroughly fermented out. (388.)

Mr. BAUER expresses the opinion that the analysis must have been of a very old beer; one which has been kept longer than beer is ever kept in this country. (391.)

Mr. WYATT says that it would be absurd to attempt to establish these standards definitely, but that they seem to represent in a general way perfectly fair averages of the beer now made in this country. Mr. Wyatt does not think that there is any fixed standard of beer in Germany; the Bavarian law prohibiting the use of anything but malt and hops was made for fiscal purposes. He denies that long storage of perfectly matured beer tends to increase the alcohol and decrease the malt extract. (406, 410.)

E. Proposed legislation.-1. National regulation favored by brewers.—Mr. FECKER, manager of the United States Brewing Company, thinks that national regulation of the manufacture of beer is desirable, in that it would diminish the prejudice which a majority of the people seem to feel against the brewing business. Mr. Fecker was one of the originators of a petition for such legislation. (298.)

Mr. PLAUTZ thinks that a national law for the inspection of beer would be a good thing for the brewery interest, because it would remove the prejudice that a great many people have against the use of beer. (301.)

Mr. OEHNE is not opposed to government inspection of beer, and he believes that the Retail Bottlers' Association has petitioned Congress to look into this question, because so much has been said about adulterated beer. (293.)

Mr. PABST thinks that a national law for the regulation of brewing would be a very good thing. (311.)

2. Legal standard favored by brewers.—Mr. O'REILLY, editor of the Liquor Trades Gazette, believes that the brewers would be willing to have a national law fixing the standand for beer, rather than face the troubles that would result from State legislation. (462.)

Mr. ZELTNER, a lager-beer brewer, would have a legal standard fixed for beer, upon an all-malt basis. The public should know just what goes into the beer which it drinks. Beer should be regarded as inferior or adulterated in the proportion in which other cereals are substituted for barley malt. (456, 459.)

Mr. HUPFEL, a brewer, would not object to a regulation of the materials which may be used for beer, provided it were made by the United States Government. He would think it wrong that a single State should establish such a regulation. That would place the brewers of that State at an unjust disadvantage as compared with the brewers of other States. (380.)

Mr. HACHEMEISTER thinks that it would be an advantage to the honest brewers to have a uniform standard fixed by United States law. He does not think that it would be fair to establish a standard by State law, because that would give an advantage to competitors in other States. (416.)

Mr. LIPPE, president of a brewing company, thinks that all good brewers would welcome a law of Congress to prohibit the use of anything but grain and hops in beer. It is for fiscal reasons, however, that this regulation is enforced in Bavaria. The beer tax in Bavaria is not levied on the beer but on the malt. If such a law were to be established in the United States, the most important thing would be to frame it so that it could not be evaded. Mr. Lippe does not think that such a law is needed by reason of any large amount of adulteration of beer. No other article made and sold in the United States is so pure. Mr. Lippe would think it proper to prescribe a minimum amount of malt extract which all beer should contain. (381-384.)

Mr. Lippe thinks that the law should make it compulsory to brew beer from grain and hops only. He considers that the brewing industry has been injured by the exclusion of Canadian barley, which he regards as the best brewing material, by the tariff. (393.)

Mr. BROWN, president of the Long Island Brewery, believes that the brewers would welcome a standard of composition fixed by the United States Government; say a standard below which it should not go in original gravity. Such a standard would relieve them from the cry against bad or impure beer, from which they unjustly suffer. A State standard would be injurious, because beer not up to the standard might be brought in from other States to the injury of the local brewers. (388, 389.)

Mr. WYATT thinks that brewers should be permitted to make beer of any gravity which they please or which their customers require; but that it might be forbidden by law to sell any beer which did not contain 45 per cent of its original gravity in extract, or any beer or ale which did not contain 35 to 40 per cent. (409.)

3. Uniform standard opposed by brewers.—Mr. BUSCH, president of the AnheuserBusch Brewing Association, indicates that, as a brewer of the finest beer, he would not approve a law which should undertake to prescribe a uniform quality

for beer. He would regard such a law as disadvantageous to the good brewer. If articles are put into beer which are injurious to health, a law should be passed to protect the public. Otherwise there is no need of legal interference. A mixture of corn and barley malt makes a standard beer, and the grade of beer ought to be measured according to the materials that are put into it. A minimum standard of beer would not work any hardship to the honest brewer, but the main thing is that the public should be informed of the articles that enter into the brews. (491-493.)

Mr. SCHWARTZ, a consulting brewer, thinks it impossible to fix a legal standard for beer, as to its gravity or the percentage of alcohol. He does not know that this is done in any country, and he asserts that the amount of beer which may be produced from a given amount of material is nowhere limited, although in some countries the beer tax is based on the amount of material consumed. (374.)

Mr. WACKENHUTH, a brew master, does not see how a national law could be framed which should control the standard of beer. Beer must be made both light and dark, both sweet and bitter, to suit various tastes. (413.)

4. Variable standard proposed.-Professor CHITTENDEN suggests that a standard of beer might be fixed, not absolutely, but with a reasonable provision for variation. A definite figure could not be established unless as a maximum or a minimum. (426.)

5. Legal standard for malt extracts.-Mr. EISNER would greatly approve of a national law fixing the standard of this product. He states that the German and Austrian governments do compel the percentage of malt extract to be marked. Beer could not be sold as malt extract without a certain percentage of extract or "kreuzen," namely, 20 per cent of malt extract. Very little beer is sold in this country which has 10 per cent. (432, 433.)

IX. WINE.

A. Blending, artificial fabrication, and adulteration.-Dr. WILEY distinguishes 3 kinds of blending: (1) In all wine countries wines from different vineyards, having different flavors due to local causes, are blended to make from year to year uniform wine. This the witness considers perfectly legitimate and even praiseworthy, because it secures a uniform standard and quality. (2) Beverages are also blended or compounded so as to produce a strictly artificial mixture. For instance, by mixing 10 or 12 per cent alcohol, 3 per cent of such materials as sugar and glycerin, a dash of tannin, a red coloring material, an artificial flavor made by a chemist, a drop or two of essential oil, and a little burnt sugar, one can make a claret, or a red mixture which has chemically the same materials found in genuine claret and which may taste like claret and looks like claret. Only the most careful chemical examination or a very expert or cultivated taste could distinguish the difference. This kind of blending the witness pronounces fraudulent; the compound is less palatable and less wholesome and may be positively injurious. We can imitate the chemical constituents, but never can imitate nature in making them palatable and wholesome. (3) The third form of blending, which is far more common than the others, is the process which is made to take the place of aging in distilled liquors. (53, 54.)

Three samples of wine examined by Dr. Wiley, all purporting to have been made at Paducah, Ky., and marked "sherry," "port," and "sweet catawba," were absolutely artificial, and contained no fermented grape juice at all. They were made of alcohol and commercial glucose, a little tannin, and aniline dyes. The coloring matter was in such large quantities that several tufts of wool were beautifully dyed with colors taken from one sample. These wines imitated in a general way the flavor, the aroma, and the taste of the genuine articles, and could be sold to persons not acquainted with the properties of wines without their fraudulent nature being discovered. (586.)

Mr. WYATT, a brewer's chemist, says that the chief adulterations which he has found in wines have been aniline dyes. He regards the use of coloring matter for wine as reprehensible, though not now so deleterious to the health as formerly, because the aniline dyes can now be prepared without the use of arsenic. There is another common sophistication of wine, not properly an adulteration— the addition of alcohol. Wine which, by ordinary fermentation, would contain 7 or 74 per cent of alcohol has enough alcohol added to bring up the percentage to 10 or 11. (410,411.)

Mr. EMERSON, president of the Brotherhood Wine Company, thinks that there is very little adulteration or mixing of American wines. (507.)

Mr. HOCHSTADTER asserts that there is more adulteration of liquors in Europe than in America. "They send us wines that have never seen a grape, and which

they could not sell or use in their own country, and are prohibited from use there by law; but there is no prohibition against their exporting them to this country." (470.)

Mr. EITEL, an importer of wine from Spain, France, and Germany, says that the law of the wine-producing States of Germany is very strict, and the amount of sugar or other substances which may be added to wine is limited. It is permitted to make what is called artificial wine, but it must be labeled and sold under that name. A beverage called a second wine is also made by the addition of chemicals and sugar to the pressed grapes, but it must be sold for what it is. (291.) Mr. ROSSATI, a wine expert, employed by the Italian Government to analyze Italian wines after their arrival in this country, exhibits the regulations of the Italian Government for the certification of wines. Importers of Italian wines may apply to the office maintained by the Italian Government in New York, and the official representative will take samples and apply a label showing that the wine is in the course of examination. The label is to be so applied as to prevent any change in the contents of the package. If the wine is found pure, clean, and healthy, a label testifying to these facts will be so applied that it must be destroyed in order to open the cask. If the wine is adulterated or defective, the Government representative will give a certificate stating the adulteration or defect, and this certificate may be made the basis of a claim for damages against the shipper. In the case of wines certified pure, the technical operations that the importer may think necessary to permit upon the same in order to render them acceptable to the consumer, and for their better preservation, must be supervised by the Government representative, in order that nothing may be done to injure their character and healthfulness." (445.)

Mr. Rossati declares that he has never found any sample of Italian wines adulterated, though he may occasionally have found wine a little out of condition. The Italian laws are very strict and punish the adulteration of wines, not only with fines but with imprisonment. Moreover, wine is so cheap in Italy that there is no incentive to adulteration. (446.)

Mr. ZUCCA, president of the Italian Chamber of Commerce of New York, says that there have been some adulterations in this country of wines brought from Italy, but that they have been upon a small scale; hardly large enough to do any great harm. (485.)

B. Champagne.-1. Definition, and process of manufacture.-A letter was presented from the proprietors of Bonfort's Wine and Spirit Circular, in which it is stated that the word champagne " is properly used only to designate wines grown in the old province of Champagne, in France, and that the French courts prohibit the manufacturers of sparkling wines in any other province from calling their product champagne. The letter declares that neither in Germany, Italy, or in any other wine-producing country, nor in France, outside the province of Champagne, have people any right to call their product "champagne," nor do they do so, save as a means of deceiving the unwary purchaser. (571.)

Mr. RIPEN, a maker of carbonated champagne, says that the word "champagne" originally designated only wine from the old province of Champagne, in France, whether effervescent or still; and for more than 50 years no such wine has been marketed in this country. General usage has given the name champagne to all effervescent wines, regardless of the place of origin or the manner of preparation. This definition is unanimously accepted by the trade and the public, and is acknowledged in every modern dictionary and encyclopedia. Mr. Ripen asserts that the Standard Dictionary and the last edition of the Encyclopedia Britannica sanction this usage. Mr. Ripen declares that neither he, as a maker of artificially carbonated wines, nor those who manufacture what is called champagne fermented in the bottle, make champagne, in the original sense of the word. "Even the stuff that comes over here from abroad is not champagne any more.' (569,571, 578.)

Mr. EMERSON, president of the Brotherhood Wine Company, defines champagne as a sparkling wine, made by the French process of fermentation in the bottle, which requires from 3 to 4 years to complete. He describes the process of production in the following terms: "The process is in the first place to have your grapes absolutely clean, well picked over, and the proper variety of grapes to produce the flavor that you wish in the champagne. Then it is crushed and the juice is put in barrels or casks and allowed to ferment. In the spring this wine is taken and put into a large tank-what we call a bottling tank-holding from 2,000 to 4,000 gallons. It is then bottled, after the addition of some older wine. Champagne always contains more or less old wine. The perfection of the champagne comes in in the perfection of the wine and in the careful and judicial selection of the grapes to make the original blend before they are pressed, and