also in the care and skill that is taken in regard to developing the wine in regard to temperature. Then it is bottled and allowed to remain in a moderately warm place until fermentation commences in the bottle. As the fermentation proceeds the bottles break more or less, and that is the only way that we can tell how the fermentation is proceeding. After it gets to a certain point and the bottles are breaking too fast we move that champagne into a colder apartment, so as not to entirely chill the fermentation, but so as to lessen it and lessen the pressure slightly on the bottle. It is gradually moved from one apartment into another until at the end of perhaps 3, 4, or 6 months it arrives at the coldest cellar that we have, which we call our storage cellar. There, it lies in tierage, lying on the side, to keep this gas from escaping and also to economize space. It lies there from 3 to 4 years in properly made champagne. Then it is taken and put on tables which have holes made through them-plank tables, set in the form of an A, with holes intended to hold the bottles. When it is first put in it is quite flat and a sediment is formed from the fermentation which falls directly to the bottom of the bottle in a little streak. It is shaken every day by a dexterous twist of the wrist and gradually raised up until in the course of some weeks-sometimes 2 weeks, but sometimes 3 months, according to the obduracy of the sediment to leave the bottle-it arrives at a vertical position. When the sediment is directly on top of the cork, then we take the champagne from there and take it up to the finishing room, carefully keeping the bottle with the cork down, so as not to disturb the sediment. In the finishing room it is disgorged; that is, the cork is dexterously taken-withdrawn-allowing the sediment and a small portion of wine to be removed. The escaping gas is allowed to blow out with the sediment. Then it is put on a finishing table and a small dosage is added to it to slightly sweeten it and render it a little more palatable. That addition is called dosage."

The dosage consists of rock candy and old wine; a very small percentage is used. Some of the carbonic-acid gas escapes in the removal of the sediment, but the bottles originally contain more gas than is needed. (501,502.)

Mr. HILDRETH, president of the Urbana Wine Company, gives substantially the same account of the method of manufacturing champagne, and he adds that the only difference between the French and the American champagnes is that the French wine has little or no flavor of its own, and the French makers add liqueurs or cordials, while American makers depend entirely upon the flavor of the grape. He also says that wine should be kept from 3 to 6 months after the dosage is added, to allow the sirup to blend with the wine. According to Mr. Hildreth almost any grape will make champagne, though some grapes produce gas in the fermentation better than others, not to speak of the different flavors which different kinds of grape will give. He declares that the wine made by his company and by other manufacturers of American champagne is as fine as any in the world. That is the judgment of competent experts when they can be induced to try the American goods without prejudice. (509-512.)

Dr. MCMURTRIE states that he has seen the process of the manufacture of champagne as carried on in the neighborhood of Epernay, in France, by one who has inherited the manufacture from his ancestors. The clean juice of the grape, after fermenting for a time in an upper cellar, is transferred to a lower cellar, probably 50 or 60 feet under ground, where the temperature is uniform at about 55°. Here the fermentation is nearly stopped by the coolness, though a slow fermentation peculiar to this kind of wine goes on for some time. After the wine becomes clear it is put into bottles and slow fermentation is allowed to continue in the bottle. By dexterous manipulation all sediment is brought to the stopper and blown out. Sometimes some of the finest sugar, if it is needed, is added, and the bottle is again stoppered. It is generally believed that in this process of fermentation certain peculiar ethers are formed which give the wine its bouquet, and which also undergo decomposition, with a continuous liberation of carbonic-acid gas, after the wine is opened. It is the presence of these ethers which is believed to cause the prolonged effervescence of wine produced in this manner. Wine which is fermented by the ordinary method of producing a still wine, and is afterwards charged with carbonic-acid gas, will continue to give off gas for a considerable time, provided it is kept cool; but if the wine is warmed, say to 55°, the gas is liberated rapidly and the wine quickly becomes flat. (602, 603.)

Mr. EMERSON asserts that there is practically no difference between French and American champagne, if only true champagnes produced by fermentation in the bottle are considered. American makers are using the French methods, based on the experience that it has taken the French makers 200 years to acquire. The word champagne" originally designated the place of origin; but the champagne makers gradually came to get their materials outside of their own district, and the word now designates a wine made by a particular process, no matter in what

place. German champagne and French champagne are distinguished in the trade, as well as American champagne. Mr. Emerson does not know that there is any sophistication or adulteration of champagnes aside from the selling of still wines artificially carbonated under the name of champagne. The true champagne, according to Mr. Emerson, could hardly be adulterated. If it contained any impurities it would not respond to the process of manufacture. It would not sparkle. (501, 505, 506.)

Mr. Cook, president of the American Wine Company, says that what is called dry champagne differs from sweet champagne only in having less sirup added to it. No preservatives are used in the manufacture of genuine champagne. (518, 519.)

2. Artificial carbonation.—Mr. EMERSON, president of the Brotherhood Wine Company, says that there is a wine which is called champagne, but which is made by taking still wine and forcing into it carbonic acid, which is made from sulphuric acid and marble dust. The process is the same as that of charging mineral water or soda water. It is a far cheaper process than that of making true champagne, and the presence of these spurious goods in the market interferes greatly with the sale of real American champagnes, not only by competition, but even more by the prejudice which they create against all American champagnes. The amount of this spurious champagne is very large. Imported wine of the same character is understood to be sold in a limited way, but the present high tariff keeps it out for the most part. (503, 507.)

Mr. HILDRETH, president of the Urbana Wine Company, Mr. BAUDER, manager of the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, Mr. Cook, president of the American Wine Company, and Mr. WHEELER, a producer of champagne, make similar statements. Mr. Wheeler says that the makers of the spurious champagne can buy the still wine, carbonate it and ship it in a day or two, and turn their money over every 3 months. In the manufacture of the genuine article capital is necessarily invested from 3 to 5 years. Mr. Wheeler says that a great deal more of the carbonated wine than of the true champagne is produced in this country, and that the sale of it is growing. Mr. Hildreth confirms the statement that very little artificially carbonated wine is now imported, on account of the high duty. The prejudice against all American champagne which results from the sale of the spurious product is chiefly complained of. (508-524.)

Mr. BAUDER believes from some sinall experience of his own that artificially carbonated wine is unwholesome. He considers, however, that people have a right to manufacture such a product, provided they sell it for what it is. The great trouble is that the sale of such wines under the name of champagne leads many people to suppose that all champagnes made in the United States are made by the artificial process. This interferes greatly with the sale of genuine goods. (514, 515.)

Mr. WHEELER says that for the artificially ca.bonated wines which are sold under the names of champagne any light-colored wine can be used. It is sweetened to the degree desired, put into a cylinder and charged with carbonic-acid gas under a pressure of 70 or 80 pounds per square inch, then bottled and corked. (521.)

Dr. WILEY says that his analysis shows that an artificial champagne can be easily detected by chemical means, as well as by taste and odor. (590.)

Mr. EMERSON says that a glass of still wine artificially carbonated to resemble champagne will sparkle for a few minutes and is then dead, while a glass of genuine champagne will bubble for 2 hours. (504.)

Mr. Cook asserts that artificially carbonated wine, such as is sold for champagne, can be produced for one-fourth of the cost of the genuine article. (519.)

Mr. RIPEN, a maker of carbonated champagne, says that he buys his wine from a certain district in California. It is guaranteed to him to be pure, containing no added ingredients. He receives it when it is not less than 3 years old, and keeps it in storage, undergoing a process of clarification and preparation, for not less than 6 months. No deleterious substance, no preservatives, no chemicals of any kind are added. It is necessary to have an absolutely pure article, because you will otherwise have a precipitation in the bottle. The foreign ingredients will combine and produce a precipitate, and the wine will become dark and thick. The wine is carbonated with carbonic-acid gas which is as pure as it can possibly be; it is bought under a guarantee that it is 99 per cent pure. The wine stands about a month after carbonating before being put on the market. It will effervesce longer than any natural wine made in this country, and about as long as the better grades of imported champagnes. (569,570, 579.)

Mr. Ripen does not believe that carbonic-acid gas is now made from sulphuric acid or marble dust. That which he uses comes from natural springs and is clarified. He believes that the carbonated wine, instead of costing only one

fourth as much as that fermented in the bottle, costs probably 85 per cent as much. He does not believe that there ever was a champagne fermented in the bottle in this country which took 4 years, or, indeed, more than 2 years. "People who have been working for those men, at the head of their cellars, have informed me that it took on an average a year and a half." Mr. Ripen thinks that about one-third of the champagne made in the United States is fermented in the bottle and two-thirds is carbonated. (572,573.)

Mr. Ripen asserts that his artificially carbonated champagne is more wholesome than champagne fermented in the bottle. The wine is clean and pure when he buys it, and it is already aged. Champagne which is fermented in the bottle is made from new wine, and Mr. Ripen believes that the carbonic-acid gas which is formed by the fermentation contains from 5 to 10 per cent of impurities, consisting of ethers and injurious gases. He asserts that "chemists and physicians indorse champagne made by the modern process and declare it far purer than that made in the old and crude way." The man who drinks the natural champagne at night will arise in the morning with a "big head" on him; if he drinks the carbonated champagne he will get up in the morning all right. (569, 570, 579.) Mr. MINOR, a maker and importer of carbonic-acid gas, states that the gas for carbonating champagne is not obtained by manufacture, but by collection. There is only one place in this country where natural carbonic-acid gas appears in such quantities as to make its collection and sale a commercial possibility. That is at Saratoga. The gas which Mr. Minor sells to Mr. Ripen and other producers of carbonated champagne comes from Germany, from the district in which the Apollinaris and other famous German springs are situated. In that district water accompanied by carbonic-acid gas rises from a very great depth-a depth so great that there is no danger of mixture with surface gases arising from the decomposition of organic material. The water is subjected to very great pressure in the earth, and is heavily charged by nature with the gas. As it reaches the surface the excess of gas escapes, and is carefully dried and collected in a gasometer. This gas is as nearly chemically pure as it can be made. Mr. Minor declares that he does not know of any article made on so large a scale in which so high a degree of purity is reached as is shown by the analysis of this gas. It is shipped to the United States in steel cylinders, under a pressure of a thousand pounds to the square inch.

Mr. Minor is also familiar with the manufacture of carbonic-acid gas. He does not sell the manufactured gas to the wine people, but to bottlers of soda water, etc. Even in the manufacture of gas sulphuric acid is not commonly used. There are not over 2 firms in the United States out of 12 with whose processes he is familiar who use it. If a trace of the sulphuric acid were permitted to get into the gas it would work great injury by gradually destroying the steel cylinder in which the gas is compressed. (573-576.)

Mr. Minor asserts that artificially carbonated wine is much more wholesome than champagne fermented in the bottle. If fermentation is carried to such a point that all the sugar is decomposed, it is found that the alcohol and carbonicacid gas produced do not represent the amount of sugar which was originally present. There appears a loss of about 5 per cent. It has not yet been determined to a certainty what becomes of this 5 per cent of sugar. It is known, however, that secondary-decomposition products are formed, among which are traces of glycerin and succinic acid. If champagne is fermented in the bottle the secondarydecomposition products have no opportunity to escape. The physiological effect of champagne in excess is out of proportion to the amount of alcohol contained in the wine. The effects are more decided and more unwholesome than those produced by too much consumption of artificially carbonated champagne. The only difference that we know of between the two is that the products of secondary decomposition have been retained in the naturally fermented champagne. (574, 575.)

Mr. WERNER, a maker of artificially carbonated wine, says that his wine comes from Sonoma County, Cal. He receives it when it is 3 or 4 years old. He keeps it in cellars from 6 months to a year, that the sediment may be entirely precipitated. Then it is filtered so that it is absolutely pure. It is then carbonated with carbonic-acid gas from Oberlahnstein, Germany, the same gas with which Apollinaris water is carbonated. It is the natural gas which comes from the ground with the water. (576, 577.)

3. Comparative tests.-Dr. WILEY made an examination of 9 champagnes bought in the market. One was an artificially carbonated wine; the others were champagne fermented in the bottle, partly of European and partly of American production. All were kept at a temperature of 62° for 5 hours in order to determine the rate of effervescence. In all the effervescence continued during this time, and there was very little difference between the different samples; the

bubbles from the artificially carbonated wine were larger in size and less evenly distributed than from the others. After standing over night the artificially carbonated sample had a bad odor, and the others were pleasant to the smell. The American wines had a richer and nuttier flavor than the foreign. On chemical examination it was found that the natural American champagne corresponded very nearly in composition to the standard European varieties. The artificial champagne contained much less alcohol than the natural champagne, and a considerable quantity of cane sugar had been added to it. (589, 590.)

Mr. HARRISON, sergeant-at-arms of the Senatorial Committee on Pure Foods, reports the result of a comparative examination of certain champagnes, 5 of which were imported, 5 American wines fermented in the bottle, and 4 American carbonated wines. All were first placed for 24 hours in a refrigerator in which the air had a temperature of 35°. All were then placed on a steam radiator, where the thermometer at the close of the test registered 98°. Under these circumstances the average period of effervescence of the carbonated wines was 6 minutes 45 seconds; of the French champagnes, 43 minutes 24 seconds; of the American natural champagne, 47 minutes 48 seconds. (591, 592.)

C. Labels.-1. Still wine.-Mr. EMERSON, president of the Brotherhood Wine Company, says that a very large proportion of American still wine is sold under foreign labels, with the clear intent to deceive the public. The best of the American wines are now sold as foreign wines in our market. (507.)

Mr. EITEL, an importer of wine and beer, declares that the small wholesale houses sell wine under false labels. The retailer can not put an adulterant into bottled goods, though he could into casks. (290, 291.)

The

Dr. WILEY says that one of his assistants visited the custom-houses and the large importers to obtain samples of beverages imported into this country from Germany. The importers were visited incognito. At one place where the assistant applied for claret, the seller asked what label he should put on it. marking of wines with false brands is very much in vogue, and extremely reprehensible. California producers have adopted foreign names in some cases, so that Liebfraumilch, Johannisberger, and Rudesheimer can be bought in the Sonoma Valley. The labels are not foreign, and the names of the vineyards are given, but the wines are named after well-known foreign varieties. It seems to Dr. Wiley that the word "California" or some other distinguishing name should be used. Sherry, port, and Moselle wines are also made in California and called by these names, to which there would be no objection if their California origin were also stated. The witness has never gone to a dealer in this country who would not tell him exactly where his wines were made and put up if asked, but people do not take that trouble. It is easy to have bottles sprinkled with coal dust to give them the appearance of having been in the cellar for years, and the witness has seen fresh-looking dust, as though put on for the occasion. (40, 41.)

Mr. HILDRETH, president of the Urbana Wine Company, says that his company makes brands of wine for two or three different people, but they are labeled for those customers and labeled as American wines. No deception is involved. The company does not now take new customers of this kind, because it wishes to establish its own brand and label. It does not make any foreign label or imitate any foreign or domestic wine. (510.)

2. Champagne.-Mr. WHEELER says that he has never seen a bottle of the so-called champagne which is produced by artificial carbonation, marked in a way which would indicate the method of manufacture. It is labeled champagne, and the consumer buys it for a true champagne and pays the highest price. The jobber and the grocer may understand what it really is, but the grocer does not tell the consumer. The retailer is largely to blame for the fraud. "He will sell it for $11 or $12 or $13 a case until the consumer gets on to it, and then the seller or retailer will sell the same wine for $6 or $7, or even $5 a case." But these so-called champagnes hardly ever bear a label which tells where they were made. They are generally marked to look as if they came from France or Italy. Mr. Wheeler knows of only two makers who put their names on goods of this kind. A connoisseur can detect the character of these artificially prepared wines by the taste, but most people who drink wines are not connoisseurs. The makers of true American champagne label their goods with their own names and with the place of production. Their goods are marked champagne and are champagne. (521,523.) Mr. WERNER, a maker of carbonated champagne, says that his firm uses no foreign labels, but puts its own name on its bottles. (577.)

Mr. RIPEN, a manufacturer of carbonated champagne, says that his firm puts its own name-Ripen & Co.-on its bottles. He believes that some makers of carbonated wine put it up under fictitious labels. A great deal of champagne sold in this country is carbonated in Europe and labeled as if fermented in the bottle. The witness believes the majority of imported champagne to be the nat

urally fermented wine, but some of it is carbonated and falsely labeled with such names as Mumm and Krug. A majority of the American champagne makers use labels which contain French words, apparently to give the impression that they are foreign. (572, 573, 577.)

D. Legislation.-1. State.-Mr. BAUDER says that New York has a law which expressly forbids artificial treatment of wine with carbonic-acid gas. The law has not been enforced. It is defective in not making it the duty of any officer to enforce it. But when he and others interested in the manufacture of genuine champagne considered the matter of attempting to enforce the law they concluded that it was not worth while, as it would only drive the fraudulent manufacturers into New Jersey. Wine shipped from other States could not be effectively dealt with by the law, as analysis would not show such a sophistication as artificial treatment with carbonic acid gas. (516.)

Mr. Bauder says that Ohio has a very stringent pure-food law. and that when it was first enacted his company was obliged to stamp the word “compounded on the labels of its champagne, for shipment into Ohio, because, like all champagne, it contains a little rock candy. He almost made up his mind to refuse all orders from Ohio rather than put that word upon the label. But the rigid enforcement of the law seems to have been abandoned. (517, 518.)

Mr. EMERSON says that a State law is of no effect outside of the territory of the State, and does not restrict the shipping into the State of almost any kind of goods. It would be very difficult to prove that wines shipped in from another State had been fraudulently labeled. No analysis would show it. It would be necessary to get at the derivation of the wine. (508.)

2. National, proposed.-Mr. HILDRETH says the trouble with such local laws as that of New York governing the purity of wines is that they can not be enforced. The New York pure-food law is very poorly enforced. There ought to be a general law compelling people to sell their products for what they actually are. (514.) Mr. EMERSON thinks that there ought to be a national law to compel people to show by their labels what is in their bottles. Every bottle ought also to be labeled with its true place of origin. If American wine makers put their own names upon their labels instead of foreign names, such adulteration as may now take place would be diminished, though adulteration is not now a serious trouble. (507.)

Dr. WILEY says that imported wine should come with a certificate from the Government where it is made. If genuine, there should be no objection to the process of manufacture being known. (54.)

3. Use of generic names defended.-Mr. HOCHSTADTER says that every manufacturer should be compelled to put his own name on the liquor that he puts up, and there should be a heavy penalty for the use of any other name; but when a name has become generic, so that it designates a kind of goods, the "foreigner has a right to those names only until the American has become acquainted with the process of manufacture."

Mr. Hochstadter submitted to the committee a brief by Mr. Israel F. Fischer, which had been presented before the commission to revise the patent and trademark laws, in protest against the adoption of any statute which should deprive American manufacturers of the right to describe their products by such words as" Port," Madeira," "Burgundy," etc. Mr. Fischer asserts that such names of wines and liquors have come to be descriptive names of products, which may properly be applied to such products wherever they originate. They should be treated in the same way as the names of Brussels and Axminister carpets, Russia and Morocco leather, Cashmere and Tweed cloths, French mustard and confections, Dresden china, Dutch metal, and German silver. All these names originally indicated origin, but they have ceased to indicate origin and have come to denote certain kinds of goods. The American wine growers have secured the Malaga, Muscatel, Tokay, and other varieties of grapes, have planted them here, and have succeeded in producing the very finest qualities of wine and brandy. Buyers of champagne know that the word designates simply a sparkling wine; buyers of port, that it means a dark, rich, heavy wine, made by the same process which is used in Portugal. No deception is involved. No other means are open to the American producer of designating to consumers the character of his goods. The purchaser would not know what to ask for if he could not use the familiar title. The American producer claims that his wines are as good as the foreign, and in many cases better. (469-472.)

4. Carbonated champagne.-Mr. Cook thinks that a law which should compel makers of artificially carbonated wines to state the true character of their products upon their labels, instead of marking them "champagne,' would be beneficial to the public, as well as to the makers of genuine sparkling wine. (520.)

Mr. HILDRETH desires a law to compel the labeling of every wine with its actual character. His business is particularly interfered with by the sale of artificially