CHAPTER XIV.

Boa Constrictor-Female Curriers-Chaka's EncampmentCountry Picturesque-Awful traces of Devastation-Low estimate of Human Life-Herd of Hippopotami-Narrow Escape-Mode of killing the Hippopotamus-Arrival at Daapa's Hamlet—His European Origin―Heathenish Disposition-Warlike Habits-Dwelling near the Sea-Account of his Mother-Where Shipwrecked-Her Marriage -Family Influence-Death-Daapa's Domain-The minished State of his Clan.

AUGUST, 15th.-One of the interpreters this morning gave me some particulars respecting the usages of his countrymen with regard to an enormous reptile, which, according to his description, answers exactly to the character of the boa constrictor. The doubts which formerly obtained relative to the existence of this dreadful creature in Southern Africa are now in a great measure removed, one having been killed by a late adventurer on the upper part of the coast. It is by no means common; but various accounts, given by the natives, fully substantiate the fact. By them this species of the serpent tribe is exceedingly dreaded; and being influenced by certain superstitious notions, they even fear to kill it. The man who happened to put it to death, whether in self-defence or otherwise, was formerly required to lie in a running stream of water during the day for several weeks together; and no beast whatever was allowed to be slaughtered at the hamlet to which he belonged, until this duty had been fully performed. The body of the snake was then taken and carefully buried in a trench, dug close to the cattle-fold,

where its remains, like those of a Chief, were henceforward kept perfectly undisturbed. The period of penance, as in the case of mourning for the dead, is now happily reduced to a few days; and, as knowledge increases, this heathenish practice, so destructive both of health and life, will doubtless wholly subside.

Opportunity favouring the project, I determined on going to see old Daapa, the only surviving son of a Eupean female, who was wrecked on this coast some eighty or ninety years ago. On this excursion, Mr. S. accompanied me for the purpose of persuading him, if possible, to remove to the Mission village. We first rode to Quanda's residence, taking with us plasters for the poor lad that had been bit by the wolf. Here we found the people busily employed in preparing new mantles. Around a beast's hide that had been stretched out and fastened to the ground, sat five or six stout young women, lazily scraping the inner side with the serrated edge of an aloe leaf. This was done to raise a sort of nap; after which the skin is well dried and saturated with grease, in order to render it soft and ductile. Before it came into their hands, however, all fleshy and mucilaginous matter had been completely taken off by the men, who are generally very particular about this part of the operation.

Leaving these female curriers, we proceeded along the western bank of the Umtata, having on our left an almost uninterrupted range of deep chasms, which terminated in the serpentine channel of the river below. The country all around is exceedingly broken, insomuch that travelling is in many places very difficult, and with waggons altogether impossible. A mixture of trap and sandstone still constitutes the characteristic features of the hill tops; but of the latter description there is here perhaps the greatest proportion. The soil is every where remarkably rich, and evidently calculated to yield an abundant recompence to the industrious cultivator. Most of the ravines are well

wooded, and in several places I observed large timber growing on the very summits of the highest eminences. A tree very similar to our English elder, is here and there found in the valleys contiguous to the coast, and likewise a great variety of fine bulbs. Amongst these are two or three different classes of amaryllis, and also of the cyrtanthes' tribe, the obliquas, and the augusta folia. A variety of the hyamanthus too, the poisonous toxi caria, is here sometimes met with, as also that beautiful plant, the strelitzi reginæ, in considerable numbers. The land, being exceedingly high, must have a very bold and bluff appearance from the sea. Several of the mountains near the beach are rich in iron ore. At the mouth of the Umpakoo, there is a hill of a very singular description, and well worthy the careful attention of any traveller skilled in geology. It is composed principally of iron ore of irregular shape, with nearly perpendicular sides; it may be about one hundred yards long at the base, and thirty or forty yards high at the highest part. While waves dash against the southern side, its northern cliff forms a sort of dam to the waters of the river, which consequently collect and form a beautiful lagoon; but the object that more immediately arrests the traveller's attention in viewing this rock, is, a singular excavation which runs quite through from its northern to its southern side, thus forming a natural tunnel, which in height is about one-fourth the altitude of the hill itself, and wide enough to admit an ordinary sized coal-barge. I never before felt," says one of the brethren, "such sensations of admiration on viewing a landscape, as those I was constrained to indulge during the few minutes we halted to look at this spot. The undulatory hills on each side of the river; the lagoon at the foot of the iron mountain; the tremendous breakers incessantly roaring on the beach, and foaming through the perforation in the rock; the sun just setting; and, on the opposite side of the horizon,

66

the pale moon, having filled her horn,' rising above the waters of the Southern Ocean, of which we had, at the same moment, an extensive view, formed altogether such a grand and beautiful constellation of objects, that I felt considerable regret on leaving the place."

Soon after 11, A. M., we arrived at the Cwanguba, a small forest, which clothes the very top of one of the most conspicuous peaks in the whole country, and in which Chaka's forces encamped when on their devastating tour in 1828. From this point they commanded a full view of all the land below; a circumstance which in all probability determined their choice of the station. On the right, twelve or fifteen miles distant, is the Umpakoo, which forms the boundary, I am told, of the Amaquean territory; and from that river to the Bashee the line of coast is occupied by the Amaboovana, (another branch broken off from the Umponeda tribe,) who join and are bounded by Hinza's clans to the westward. Their late Chief Gamboosh, together with his son Galaka, have been in alliance with the Amaxosæan king for many years past; but this is now in a great measure broken, in consequence of the cruel and unpopular conduct of the latter. Twelve or fourteen years ago Hinza married Gamboosh's daughter, who was formerly constituted head of his household, and of whom was born the rightful heir to his authority. She is now, however, cast off; her royal husband one day furiously declared that if she did not depart out of his sight, and immediately leave his residence, he would certainly plunge his spear into her heart! She was therefore obliged to return to her father's house, where she will in all probability remain until the son comes to years of maturity; and then it is expected he will fetch her home, and henceforward become her protector.

Two or three miles from the Cwanguba we passed through a village inhabited by persons of a mixed character, chiefly of slave extraction. There can be little doubt

but numbers of slaves have in former years taken refuge in Caffraria from the lash of their colonial task-masters: nor is it less clear, that others have at different times been thrown into the country by means of shipwrecks. Most of these being black, and married to native women, their children are, of course, rarely distinguishable from the people with whom they are now amalgamated. In this instance, however, their unusually thick woolly hair and bushy beards, rendered them strikingly singular; and on being challenged, they very ingenuously acknowledged their origin. On looking around, my curiosity was excited by a hut in ruins; and I was induced to inquire why thorns and branches, &c., were laid in such order about its fallen roof: upon which, they told us that it was the dwelling of their Captain's late wife, and now her grave. Being a woman of rank, she had been allowed to die in her habitation: a hole was then dug in the centre of the floor to receive her corpse, and after carefully burying her, they had cut away the pillars and foundation of the house, and thrown down the whole to decay upon the spot on which her hands had placed them. No one dared to take a stick or a twig from this pile for any purpose whatever.

The promise of a few buttons induced one of the men to accompany us as guide down into the Mapoozi, whose banks are occupied by the Amachess. In these lovely and picturesque valleys, the horrid alarum of war had again and again been heard. Human bones were scattered about on every side, together with heaps upon heaps of ashes, the only remains of former dwellings. Within a few paces of one of the hamlets, I picked up a skull that was lying bleaching in the sun with part of the pericranium upon it quite fresh. Here it was that the clans above mentioned were attacked by Chaka's warriors, who rushed down from the adjacent heights like a torrent; and whilst the men were endeavouring to secure their