THRONES AND PALACES

OF

BABYLON AND NINEVEH.

CHAPTER I.

Up the Persian Gulf.—Brilliant Anticipations.-Memorable Historic Lands. -Preparations for the Journey.-Our Party.-Steamer Burmah.-English Travelers.-Pilgrims to the Shrine of Dwaka.-Kurrachee.-Its History and Commerce.-Civilizations Compared.-Worshiping Alligators.-Oriental Gamblers.-Looking for a Harbor.-Guadur.-Appearance and History of Muscat.-Its King and his Kingdom.-Delicious Dates. Ornamented Women.-Reign and Forts of the Portuguese.— Terrible Massacre.-Sunset at Sea.-Arabian and Persian Mountains. -Persian Gulf described.-Bunder Abbas.-Portuguese and Ormuz.Fire-worshipers.-Islands in the Persian Gulf.-Kishm and Larrack. -Lingah.-Pearl-divers of Bahrein.-Pearl-fisheries.-Costly Pearls.— A Sea of Blood.-Bushire.-Tragic Scenes.-England's Lion Share.Ancient and Modern Persia.-Brilliant Phosphorescent Display.-Slowness of the Orientals.-Dreadful Storm.-Farewell to the Persian Gulf. -Great Shaat-el-Arab.-Beautiful River Scenery.-Sheikh of Mahomerah.-First Stage of our Journey Ended.-Commerce of Busrah.-Enchanting Rivulet. Busrah.-Home of Sindbad the Sailor.- Ancient Ruins. Garden of Eden.

THE lights along the lengthened bund* burned dimly as we steamed out of the spacious harbor of Bombay. The evening star shone over the Caves of Elephanta. The elegant villas and woodland slopes of Malabar Hill were on our right when we made our exit to the sea. We were en route to the most ancient and renowned

* Wharf in India.

lands known to history, whose monumental ruins bespeak a civilization earlier than that of Greece and Rome, and whose exhumed annals contain the record of events coeval with our race. The dreams of other years were soon to be realized, and long-maturing plans were at the point of consummation. Guided by the studies of former days, the imagination dwelt with delight upon the pleasures that awaited us. We were to enjoy the delicious excitement of

"Moonlight over Oman's sea;"

scent afar the spicy breezes of "Araby the blest;" linger in the date-groves of Muscat; gather pearls from the shores of Bahrein; behold "Kishm's fair isle;" roam through the Garden of Eden; sail up the Tigris and the Euphrates; stand on the Tower of Babel, and explore the ruins of ancient Babylon; stroll through the bazaars of Bagdad, the city of "The Thousand and One Nights;" examine the remains of Nineveh, and wander through the palace of Sennacherib; traverse the whole length of Mesopota mia, where Job lived, where Abraham was born, where Jacob wooed his beautiful Rachel; pass over the battlefields of Cyrus, of Alexander, and Trajan; follow the "Retreat of Xenophon and the Ten Thousand;" visit Nisibis of the Nestorians, Mount Masius of the Romans, and Antioch, where "the disciples were first called Christians."

Such was the fascinating vision that floated before our imagination, and allured us by its entrancing hopes. It was not easy, however, to obtain accurate and reliable. information necessary to make the tour. The route is not frequented by ordinary travelers, and only a few have made the journey for research and exploration. Nine-tenths of the persons of whom we made inquiries discouraged the attempt. We were told that terrific

storms frequent the Persian Gulf; that robbers infest those countries; that competent guides could not be ob tained; that there were no places of entertainment for the accommodation of the traveler; that numberless streams, swollen by the melted snows from the Hamreen and Taurus Mountains, would prove impassable; and that a journey of a thousand miles on horseback must be performed. Stories were related of personal hardship, of robberies and murders, and confirmed by Buckingham, by Ainsworth, by Layard. But occasionally we had met some brave, hopeful, intelligent person, whose encouraging words were an inspiration. And, fortunately, we were favored with letters of commendation from the high officials of British India to the English consul at Bushire, at Busrah, and at Bagdad.

Happily our party was small. If great hardships were to be endured, there were but few to suffer. If lives were to be sacrificed, there were only three to die. One of our companions was a lady whom we had known for eighteen beautiful years, and could rely upon her cour age in danger, her endurance in fatigue, her enthusiasm in exploration. The other compagnon de voyage was a gentleman who had seen the beauty of sixty summers, who was quiet, intelligent, and brave.*

Our steamer was the Burmah, of the British India Steamship Navigation Company, and was bound for Busrah, on the Shaat-el-Arab, the end of the first stage of our journey. Of a thousand tons, the Burmah proved an admirable steamer. Her saloon was large, tastefully ornamented, and furnished with mirrors, sofas, and a li brary. The state-rooms were not inferior in size and convenience to those on the Atlantic and Pacific steamers.

* Mr. C. B. Collins, of New York.

The bill of fare was good, the attendance excellent, and the officers were competent and gentlemanly. Our captain was a thorough seaman, and a thorough Englishman. He was a sailor among his crew, a gentleman among his passengers. His vigilance knew no cessation; and although the first officer was one of the most efficient seamen I have ever met, yet the captain remained on deck from sunset to sunrise. In conversation he was genial and entertaining. He was familiar with the ancient and modern history of the Persian Gulf, and seemed happiest when reciting some legend of the sea. Although small of stature, he was every whit a man. Gifted with a merry laugh, he drove dull care away. Born to command, his stentorian voice rose above the storm. He had the habit of omitting the h where he should have put it, and of putting it where it did not belong. One day when sailing along the Persian coast, I inquired: "Captain, what peaks are those?" "Those hare the Hass's Hears, sir," was his aspirated response.

On board the Burmah was an English party bound for Bagdad, and consisted of the Hon. E. H. Ellis, his mother, Lady Howard de Walden, and his sister, the Hon. Miss Ellis. He was a young gentleman of fortune, and traveled for pleasure. His previous voyage over the same route had made him familiar with every island, peak, and river, and his genial manners rendered him a delightful companion. He was an amateur photogra pher, and his proficiency in the art is best evinced by some of the pictures that illustrate this volume. His mother and sister kept a pictorial journal of their tour, and sketched in colors each town and temple and ruined tower, each quiet bay and beetling crag, each emerald isle and palm-date grove, with a rapidity and accuracy that excited our admiration. Stately in her bearing as