CHAPTER IV.

Sail on the Tigris.-Perilous Situation.-Shrines of Kathimain.-Modes of Traveling. Making a Bargain.-Departure from Bagdad.-First Night's Experience. Half-way House.-Delli Abbass.-Adam's Fleas.-Den of Robbers.-Hills of Hamreen.-Beautiful Flowers.-Karateppeh.-Storks, and their Habits.-Jebarah Portrayed.-War of Words.-Walking Qualities of the Arab.-Town of Kifri.-Turkish Soldiers.-Day of Rest.Storm on the Desert.-Crossing the Dreaded Dooz.-Dooz Khurmuttee. -Changeless East.-Conscripts.-Dandy Officer.-Village of Tavok.Singing Dervish.-Robbers.-American Songs.-City of Kerkook.-Traveling with the Pasha's Wives.-Excitement in the Hills.-Altoon Kupri. -Remarkable Bridge.—Ancient Arbela.-Battle between Darius and Alexander the Great.-Greater Zab.-A Night with the Shepherds.—Habits and Customs of the Bedouins.-Eleventh Day Out.-Domes of Mosul, and Gates of Nineveh.-Crossing the River.-Mine Host.-Mr. Rassam.— Splendid Residence.-City of Mosul.-Mosques, Churches, and Bazaars.— Easter-Sunday.—Elegant Ladies.

AFTER tiffin, on a sunny day in March, we made an excursion to the shrines of Kathimain and the tomb of Zobeida. The captain of the English gun-boat Comet offered one of his large boats to convey us up the Tigris to the railway-station. In our party were five ladies, two gentlemen, three children, and one servant. The boat was manned with four oarsmen and a coxswain. The river was high, the current strong, and the boat heavily loaded. By keeping along the eastern shore, we escaped the full force of the powerful current. But we had to pass under the bridge, through a narrow passage, through which the river rushed with unwonted force. I had watched our approach to the point of entrance with no little anxiety, but hoped for the best. Our boatmen were no less anxious. It required all their strength to

pull up to the point, but the counter force of the cur rent was too much for them, and, dropping their oars, they caught hold of the under beams of the bridge and pulled us through. But, before they could get their oars in the water again, the tremendous current swept us sidewise against one of the boats that floated the bridge, and we were at the mercy of the maddened, tumultuous, rushing river. Apparently there was no hope for us. Some of the ladies screamed, and the children

cried aloud. A watery grave opened its portals to receive us. Our boatmen lost their presence of mind; our coxswain trembled with fear; our end had come. The people crowded the bridge, and shouted all manner of advice to our terrified seamen; while the more thoughtful got into their small boats to pick us up after we had capsized. It was an awful moment. The memories of a life came rushing through the mind. God only could save us. Inspired with superhuman strength, our servant, two of the boatmen, and one of the gentlemen seized the bridge, and held fast till the oars were placed in the water. Then came the struggle. After a most determined effort, we succeeded in gaining on the cur rent, and pulled toward the shore. How the seamen struggled, sweat, panted for breath! Had one failed, we were all gone. But there was one in the boat whose presence of mind did not forsake her for a moment. When the danger was most imminent, Mrs. Holland kept the other ladies from any sudden movement, and spoke "brave words" to the coxswain, who shook like an aspen-leaf. The captain of the Comet had been watching us through his glass, and, blaming his men for their stu pidity, he punished them on their return. By a bold dash they should have shot through the narrow, danger. ous passage-way beneath the bridge; and this he com