FROM TORNEÅ, TO THE MOUTH OF THE Preparations for an Expedition beyond the Arctic CircleLapland Beds-The party leave Torneå - Salmon Fishery-Falls of the Lapland Rivers-Manner of passing them-Incipient Trap-Frankilä-Antient mode of covering the Head - Dr. Deutsch-Carl GustafSteam Baths-Korpikylä-Cataract of Matka KoskiPrimeval Mill-Beverage of the Laplanders-Rubus Chamamorus-Hjetaniemi-Isle of Tulkila- Fishing by torch-light-Appearance of the Country towards the Arctic-Ofver Torneå-Adventure that befel the Author-Plants-Conflagration of the Forests-Havoc made by Wild-beasts-Kattila Cataracts-Passage of the Polar Circle-Scenery of the Frigid Zone-Breed of Cows-Tavonico-Beautiful Isles-Svansten-Mos AA 2 quitos quitos-their providential utility-Hirvas Koski-Pello CHAP. WE had now completed a journey in Sweden IX. of above twelve hundred miles. Our further progress beyond the Arctic Circle, and to those distant regions of the Frigid Zone described by Linnæus as terra ultima, might not be attended with the facility and expedition which we had hitherto experienced. In the countries we were to traverse, there was no road of any kind: the only method of pursuing our route must be by ascending to the sources of the rivers in boats; and for this purpose, an additional interpreter became requisite, who not only could converse with the natives, but who also possessed a thorough knowledge of their manners and cus And with regard to houses of accommodation, such dwellings alone might be expected as the casual settlements of these Laplanders upon the banks of the rivers would offer: in these, neither beds nor provisions would be found. It was therefore necessary to take every thing with us that we might want: but there was one thing more necessary than all the rest; CHAP. IX. tions for an Arctic and, unfortunately, one that cannot be commanded; namely, health. This began to fail the author, when it was most wanted. Although naturally of a robust constitution, yet a total neglect of that rest which is necessary for recruiting exhausted nature, during many nights and days of incessant fatigue without sleep, while it deprived him of strength, also brought on a total loss of appetite, attended with symptoms rather of an alarming nature. Being de- Preparatermined, however, to persevere to the last, no Expedition time was lost in getting every thing ready. Mr. beyond the Pipping, son of one of the merchants, who had Circle. been accustomed to attend the annual expeditions to North Cape, volunteered his services, as a Lapland interpreter; for which we agreed to give him, for each day that he might continue to be so employed, half-a-crown, English. In lieu of beds, we devised, for each person, a Lapland portable kind of frame-work, on which might be Beds. laid a couple of rein-deer skins'. These Lapland beds have every recommendation, both as to utility, and the ease by which they may be transported. They are so light, that one of them will not weigh more than the two rein-deer skins which are to be placed upon it. Being at the (1) See the Vignette at the beginning of the next Chapter. CHAP. same time provided with an empty linen pillow IX. case, a person may stuff this with his cloak, or with any part of his clothes; and thus lie down in luxury, even in the midst of a forest; being neither exposed to dews, nor to venomous insects. We found them so comfortable, that we regretted the loss of them, when we had left them behind us, after quitting Lapland: and for officers of the army engaged upon military expeditions, they would be not less convenient than they are quickly and easily made. Portable beds being thus provided, nothing remained but to lay in a stock of such provisions as might be kept for occasional use; but Mr. Pipping told us he had a companion who would cater for us, and often find plenty of food, where we might most stand in need of it. This companion was nothing more than his Lapland dog; to which he added two fowling-pieces: and he assured us, that we might generally rely upon finding fresh salmon, at this season of the year, in all the lower parts of the country. A little tea therefore, some rolls of pig-tail tobacco and a small cask of brandy for the natives; together with a cheese and a few rusks; constituted the whole of our stock. Thick gloves for the hands, and veils to cover the head, ears, and face, being passed over the hat, and tied close round the neck, were absolutely necessary; and every person was accordingly provided with them: yet even these were not found a sufficient protection from the mosquitos, as will appear in the sequel. CHAP. IX. leave Tor Our boats being in readiness, and every thing The Party on board, several of the merchants, together nea. with Baron Hermelin's Academicians, who had arrived the day before, accompanied us to the water-side; bearing with them a large goblet of the sort of beverage which we call cool-tankard, to make a copious libation at parting, and drink success to our future voyage. As soon as we had taken leave of these gentlemen, we found our company to consist of five persons, besides boatmen ; including the Lapland and Swedish interpreters, an English servant, and ourselves. The first named of these was acquainted with the inhabitants of all the countries through which we were to pass, and from his earliest years had been accustomed to associate with Laplanders. Being received everywhere, and his coming hailed, as a person of much consequence, we gave him the appellation of " King Pipping;" neither did his figure ill accord with this distinction. To great personal strength and activity, was added no small degree of corpulency; and under a look as grotesque and wild |