XI.

CHAP. birch and juniper: beyond these, appear mountains covered with beds of Lichen rangiferinus, giving them a white appearance, as if snow were yet lying upon their sides. The horizon is bounded by distant mountains in every direction; between which and Enontekis are bogs covered with bushes, and the last dwindled representatives of the Scandinavian forests, seen only as bushes, which farther northward disappear altogether. Having been so long surrounded with woods, the novelty of an open country was pleasing to the eye. Fahrenheit's thermometer during the last two days had fallen nearly thirty degrees. It now stood at 48°. The wind became boisterous, with passing showers of hail and rain: in consequence of the change, the mosquitos instantly vanished. We were surprised to find that no attempt had been made anywhere in this country to domesticate the wild bees, which are found in all the woods; and the more so, as the inhabitants stand in great need of a substitute for sugar. Common brown sugar is unknown among them. Even the members of Mr. Grape's family had never seen any. Since the prohibiTea-water. tion of coffee, it was usual, throughout all Sweden, to drink a weak infusion of tea, morning and evening; to which the inhabitants gave the expressive appellation of Tea-water: in fact, it is little

else than pure warm water.

XI.

Their mode of CHAP. drinking this beverage is the same every where; and very different from our mode of drinking tea in England. They first bite off a small piece from a lump of loaf-sugar, and then wash it down with the contents of their tea-cup; making a single lump of sugar serve for two or three cups of teawater. A traveller, therefore, can hardly make a more acceptable gift to the mistress of a house, than by presenting her with a pound or even half-a-pound of loaf-sugar. It will be placed in the beaufet, like a rare piece of old china, and perhaps be preserved more for show than for use.

Congrega

July 28.-By Mr. Grape's desire, the throng Church being very great, we did not enter the church tion. until the Communion Service was ended. When we entered, the congregation was engaged in singing; the men being divided from the women, as we often see them in England; and the Minister standing alone at the altar. The whole church was crowded, and even the gallery full; many of the wild nomade Laplanders being present, in their strange dresses. The sermon appeared to us the most remarkable part of the ceremony. According to the custom of the country, it was an extemporaneous harangue; but delivered in a tone of voice so elevated, that the worthy pastor seemed to labour as if he would

XI.

CHAP. burst a blood-vessel. He continued exerting his lungs in this manner during one hour and twenty minutes, as if his audience had been stationed upon the top of a distant mountain. Afterwards, he was so hoarse he could hardly articulate another syllable. One would have thought it impossible to doze during a discourse that made our ears ring; yet some of the Lapps were fast asleep; and would have snored, but that a sexton, habited like themselves, walked about with a long and stout pole, with which he continued to strike the floor; and if this did not rouse them, he drove it forcibly against their ribs, or suffered it to fall with all its weight upon their sculls. After the sermon, singing again commenced: it consisted of a selection of some verses from the Psalms, which, notwithstanding what has been said of the vocal music of Lapland, were devoutly and harmoniously chaunted. It was impossible to listen to the loud and full chorus of a savage people thus celebrating the triumph of Religion over the most wretched ignorance and superstition, without calling to mind the sublime language of antient prophecy: "THE WILDERNESS AND

THE

THE SOLITARY PLACE SHALL BE GLAD:
DESERT SHALL REJOICE AND BLOSSOM AS THE

ROSE. IT SHALL BLOSSOM ABUNDANTLY, AND
REJOICE EVEN WITH JOY AND SINGING." As

we accompanied the Minister to his house, we ventured to ask the reason of the very loud tone of voice he had used in preaching. He said he was aware that it must appear extraordinary to a stranger; but that if he were to address the Laplanders in a lower key, they would consider him as a feeble and impotent missionary, wholly unfit for his office, and would never come to church that the merit and abilities of the preacher are always estimated, both among the Colonists and Lapps, by the strength and power of his voice.

CHAP.

XI.

Attempt to

launch the

Balloon.

Failure.

The church service being now over, we were called upon to launch the balloon. Fresh parties of the natives continued to arrive; and many were seen crossing the Lake, towards the place. The wind blew tempestuously, and we foresaw Cause of that we should inevitably fail in the attempt: but having left notices all the way from Muonioniska, and the activity of our messengers having brought together such a number of people, we did not dare to disappoint them. The balloon was therefore brought out, and displayed. A spectacle so new might be supposed likely to excite in their minds no small degree of astonishment. They crowded round it with great eagerness; and it was in vain that we called to them to stand aloof. As it began to fill, some of the

XI.

CHAP. Lapps caught hold of the sides: the balloon at the same time becoming unmanageable, owing to the violence of the tempest, a general confusion took place, when it was torn from its hold, and a rent being made in the side, it fell to the ground. This accident caused no small chagrin to all our party: the Minister had seen it float in the church; but not so the majority of the assembled natives, who might believe we intended to make dupes of them. Such, however, was their patience, that they agreed to remain all night upon the spot with their rein-deer, if it should be necessary, while the balloon was mending. This was soon accomplished; but the tempest rather increased than subsided; and during the delay, they became riotous and clamorous for brandy; bringing money, and offering to pay for it. One man, thinking to gain it by addressing the Minister in the Finnish tongue, actually crawled into his presence, and kissed the ground several times, saying, ANNA, ANNA, MINULÉ VINA'! while the greater number, without, in the porch, and near the house, were calling aloud, in the Lapland language, "ADDI MONJI VEDNI!" The women, not less importunate, although less noisy, joined their hands together, and, in sup

(1) Give me, give me, a little wine!
(2) Give me some brandy-wine!