we except Constantinople, where accidents by fire are more frequent. Yet the inhabitants pretend to better regulations, to prevent such a cata.strophe, than have been elsewhere adopted; and among others, that of a tocsin, to be sounded by a watchman (placed, for the purpose, upon the top of a high tower) as soon as a fire is perceived: in consequence of this alarm, the inhabitants are to illuminate their houses, and to continue the illumination until the fire has been extinguished.

At the time of our arrival, Copenhagen had risen with renovated splendour from her ashes; a great improvement being visible in the streets, and many magnificent houses substituted in place of antiquated mansions, that wanted repair, and had been burned. In an old quarto volume, we found a description of Copenhagen, in three different languages, Danish, German, and French; printed in three columns in each page of the work. This description afforded a minute detail of all the buildings, but it contained hardly a single remark worth notice concerning any of them.

building. The Knight's Saloon, or Ridder Sal, in this palace, was reckoned one of the largest apartments in Europe. Its length equalled 118 feet; its breadth, 58 feet. It was lighted by nine windows, and at night by three lustres, containing 1200 wax candles. The Royal Library suffered upon this occasion: it contained 130,000 volumes, and 3000 manuscripts.-See Wolff's Northern Tour, pp. 90,91. Lond. 1814

CHAP.
II.

change.

June 10th.-We visited our Ambassador, and were very kindly received by him. In the evenThe Ex- ing, we went to what is called the Bourse, or public place of exchange. It is a long building, full of shops, ranged in two rows, like the bazars of Constanstinople. Here every article of household consumption is sold, excepting provisions; but so extremely dear, that a higher price is demanded for almost every thing than is asked in London. The tradesmen are civil and obliging, and, like those of Hamburgh, never seem to consider any attention troublesome which is given to a stranger. The Theatres were at this time shut and the season for assembling the Court being over, no public amusements were going on.

COPENHAGEN TO GOTHENBURG.

Observatory at Copenhagen-Fredericksberg-Population -National Character of the Danes-Arsenal, Docks, and Naval Stores -State of Literature - Professors -Cabinet of Shells-Royal Collection of PicturesNatural History-Antiquities-Royal Library-Review -Journey to Helsingor-Hirsholm-Castle of Cronberg -Queen Matilda-Anecdote of the Master of an English Merchantman-Helsingor-Passage of the Sound -Isle of Huen-Helsinborg-General aspect of all Sweden-Skåne, or Scania-Swedish Horses-Dress of

CHAP.
III.

Obser

vatory at Copenhagen.

the Female Peasants-Engelholm-Forest Scenery— Public Roads-Karup- Boorstad-Laholm-Nuptial Festivities Halmstad - Falconberg Warberg

Kongsbacka-Karra-Gotheborg.

On Sunday, June 11th, we went to the French Reformed Church; but arrived too late to hear the preacher, a very venerable man, who was pronouncing the benediction as we entered. There is also another Protestant Church in Copenhagen, where the service is performed in the German language. In the way back to our hotel, we visited the Observatory; a large tower, so constructed, that, by means of a spiral road without steps, which is paved with bricks, a coach drawn by four horses might be safely conducted to the summit. We ascended to the gallery; and here we enjoyed a fine prospect of the city and harbour of Copenhagen. There was not a cloud in the sky. The whole of the opposite shore of Sweden was hence visible. Using our telescope, we discerned a town upon the Swedish coast, which we supposed to be Landscronia; very distinctly discerning its large church, surmounted by a dome. The heat of the day appeared to us to be remarkable; because the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer did not stand higher than 67° in the shade;

but the air was so sultry', that we might CHAP. have believed it to be nearer 90° than 70°.

berg.

III.

Afterwards, we made an excursion to Frede- Fredericksricksberg, a country-seat of the King, about two miles from Copenhagen, on the road to Roschild; and visited the palace and gardens. The palace is meanly furnished, and in no respect worthy of a moment's observation. The gardens are formal, and disposed into straight and dusty walks, with long avenues and Chinese bridges. Near to this palace there are little public gardens, for the sale of refreshments. In the evening, we returned to the city with a party of French gentlemen, and accompanied them to the public walks in the King's

(1) During the three months of June, July, and August, the heat is much more intense than in England, and very sultry in the nights; but it is a gloomy heat, and people generally perceive some interposition of thick vapours between them and the sun. In Copenhagen, during these three months, they are constantly troubled with the plague of flies, which they endeavour to destroy by a poisoned water; upon the laying of which in their kitchens and chambers, I have seen whole bushels of dead flies swept together in one room." (Account of Denmark, as it was in the year 1692, p. 8. Lond. 1738.)-If this fact alone be ascertained, of the presence of a vast number of flies during the hot mouths, there needs not a better proof of the prevalence of bad air; and by some writers, the insalubrity of the air of Copenhagen, in certain seasons of the year, is alluded to. Aër tamen tolo anni tempore non idem non semper aded salubris, &c. (Daniæ Descriptio, tom. II. p. 592. Lugd. Batav. 1706.) Joh. Isac. Pontanus, Petrus Bertius, C. Braun, C. Ens, Itineraria et allii auctores indicant."