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costly pages, dear sir, and feast your dle ages, for one that will bother his eyes with the delicious vignettes, that head with the small Italian republics ever and anon glance out from between of the same era : We would rather the leaves, like the ruby clusters of have luminous notions touching the Bacchus himself, glowing amidst the precise nature of the liquor which Sir foliage of some tall marriageable elm, or John Falstaff quaffed, than the secret stately poplar ; pause upon these ex intrigues which brought Charles the quisite gems; contemplate the rosy First to the scaffold : and, great as is god in each and all of these five thou our respect for Mr Langan, there is sand attitudes : worship him where, still another claret which possesses franticand furious, he tosses the thyrsus claims upon our sympathies, far, far amidst the agitated arms of his con above that which has of late flowed so gregated Mænades : adore him where, copiously from his potatoe-trap. This proudly seated upon the rich skins of work, in a word, is fitted to interest the monsters whom he subdued, he and delight, not one class of students, pours out the foaming cup of wine and but all. The classical scholar will here wisdom before the eyes of savage men,

find the best of all commentaries on whom the very scent of the ethereal the most delightful passages of those stuff hath already half civilized : envy delightful writers, whom he is accuse him, where beneath the thick shadow tomed to turn over with a daily and of his own glorious plant, he with one a nightly hand: he will speculate upon hand twines the ivy wreath around the the flavour that a Nestor loved, and ivory brows of Ariadne, and with the sit in erudite judgment over the benother approximates the dew of divi- most binns of a Nero. The English -nity to the lips of beauty. Feast, antiquarian will enjoy the flood of revel, riot in the elegance of these un- light that streams upon the joyous rivalled cameos, and when you have pages of Ben Jonson : verdea will no saturated your eye with forms that longer puzzle the Giffords, nor Petermight create a thirst beneath the ribs

sameen be a stumbling-block to the of gout, and draw three corks out of Nareses.* The man of science will anone bottle--then, O Christopher ! and alyse the effervescence of Sheeraz: the not till then, will you be in a fit con- Physician will hear the masterly dedition for understanding the profound fence of Claret against the charge of feelings of respect, and grateful attach- goutification, and return humanized to ment, with which it is now my agree the exercises of his calling: the eccleable duty to introduce to your acquain- siastical historian will mourn with Dr tance, and that of “.

my public,” the Henderson over the injuries done to learnedly luxurious Dissertations of my the Medoc and the Cote d'or by the good friend, and jolly little compota- suppression of the monastic establishtor, Dr Alexander Henderson. ments of France: the lover of light

The Doctor is, absque omni dubio, the reading will find the charms of rofirst historian of our age. He unites mance united with the truth and digin his single person the most admira- nity of history: The saint will have ble qualifications of all the other masters no lack of sighing, as he glances his in this great branch of literature, whọ grave eye over the records of human now lend lustre to the European he- debauchery, and at the same time, he misphere the extensive erudition of may, in passing, pick up a hint or two a Ranken-the noble self-reliance and that will be of use at the next dinner audacious virtue of a Brodie-the ele of the African Association: The congant style of a Sismondi-and the prac scious wine-merchant will read and tical sense of an Egan. In many re tremble : and every good fellow, from spects, to be sure, the superiority he George the Fourth, down to Michael displays may be referred to the im

Angelo the Second, will read and remense superiority and unapproachable joice. merits of the theme he has chosen. It was in England only, and perThe history of the Cellar of Burgundy haps in this age of England, that a is a matter of infinitely more impro- work of this complete and satisfactory ving nature than that of the House of description could have been prepared. the same name: a thousand will take We produce no wines, and we are the profound interest in a dissertation up- great consumers of all the best wines on the sack and hippocras of the mid- of the globe. We are free from the

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* The Pedro-Ximenes is the name of the best Malaga grape.

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violent prejudices, therefore, which ton; that binds the laurel on a Hogge
induce the man of the Marne to turn without robbing the brows of a Hesi-
up his nose at the flask of him of the od-and thirsts for Lord Byron's auto-
Loire, and vice versa. We look down biography without offering to sacrifice
as from a higher and a calmer region, for its purchase, either the veracities
upon all the noisy controversies about of a Rock, or the decencies of a Fau-
the rival claims of the Lyonnais and blas.
the Bordelais, the Mayne and the On a work, sir, such as yours, cal-
Rhein-gau. We can do equal justice culated for extensive and popular cir-
to the sweets of Malaga, and Rousil- culation, it would ill become an indi-
lon, and despise the narrow-minded vidual like myself, to obtrude much
bigotry which sets up either Madeira matter of a recondite and obscure or-
or Sherry at the expense of the other's der, or adapted to the intellectual taste
ancestral stimulancy:

of particular classes of readers only. In former days, indeed, we partook, Allow me, therefore, to pass lightly however absurdly, in the paltry pre- over the dissertations with which this judices which we now spurn with our volume opens, touching the various heels. Time was when we were all vintages of the nations of antiquity. for the Cyprus—time was also when In truth, even the genius and erudi. we were all for the Xeres grape- tion of a Henderson

have been able to time was when little or nothing would scatter but an imperfect ray over subgo down with us but Hockamore—and jects, mantled, as these are, with the time was when even Rhedycina's learn- shades of a long night of nearly two ed bowers resounded to strains ňot sim- thousand years' duration. It is still, ply laudative of Oporto, but vitupera- we must admit, dubious whether the tive and vilipensive of Bourdeaux. wine that Telemachus drew out of the

We have outlived these follies. We cellars of his royal father partook more are now completely of the liberal school of the nature of port or of sherry. The of winebibbing; our grandsire’sdumpy Homeric epithet of Black may mean black bottle of sherry leaves the vicinity either the deep hue inalienable from of the oven, and stands in friendly jux- the juice of the purple grape, or the ta-position with the long-neckex of five fine grave tinge merely which wines year old demi-mousseur, and the dou that are called white acquire, in con, bly-iced juice of Schloss-Johannisberg sequence of being kept for several that has been buried in the cave of caves lustres, whether in glass bottles, acever since the great era of The Reform- cording to the modern custom, or in ation. The native of the Alto-Douro is earthen jars, after the manner of the contented to precede him of the Ga- heroic ages. That Nestor, however, ronne, as some sturdy pioneer trudges drank, during the battle with which in proud solemnity before the march of the 13th book of the Iliad opens, wine a battalion of Voltigeurs. The coup- both of a red and of a strong sort, is de-milieu of Constantia or Frontignac indisputable. The epithets of ás@wt forms an agreeable link between the and équapos are used together in the same Sillery, which has washed down the line, and their significancy is clear and venison, and the Hock, which is to obvious to the most German capacity. add pungency to the partridge-pie. Dido, again, when she gave her first We take Chambertin to the omelet, grand dinner to the Trojan prince, apand Sauterne to the tart. In a word, pears to have sported something near we do justice to the boundless muni- akin to champagne. ficence of nature, and see no more harm

"IMPIGER hausit in imbibing white wine and red wine,

SPUMANTEM pateram.” dry wine and sweet wine, still wine and sparkling wine, during the same The epithet impiger is admirably repast, than we would in doing homage chosen, since the act is that of swallow. within the same fortnight to the ripe ing sparkling, or right mousseux wine luxuries of a Ronzi de Begnis, the airy for a spumans patera can hardly be graces of a Mercandotti, the vigorous supposed to mean, in the mouth of a charms of a Vestris, and the meek mo writer so chaste as Virgil, anything dest radiance of a Maria Tree. This short of that. He would not have talk speaks the spirit of the same unfetter- ed of that as foaming, which, in point ed age that can love a Virgil as well of fact, merely creamed ; and while the as worship a Homer; that places the rapidity of quaffing a cup of foaming bust of a Dante beside that of a Mile champagne cannot be too great, since


the vinous principle of that wine eva pagne was not of the Ay sort, which porates in a great measure with the ef is almost colourless, but right Sillery, fervescence of the gas it embodies, a the hue of which is very nearly the poet of Virgil's delicate taste would same with that of gold in its virgin have been careful not to represent Bi-“ state or perhaps Vin de la Marechale, tias as tumbling down his throat, in which generally has even a deeper that basty and furious method, a glass tone. Pink champagne it certainly of burgundy, or claret, or indeed of could not have been, since, whatever any other wine whatever. On the might have been the case at a subsecontrary, he would no doubt have pice quent period of the entertainment, it tured this “ officer and gentleman" as is impossible that a lady who had sucking down his liquor in a quiet, de- just sat down should mistake the corous, leisurely, and respectful style, brightness of the rose

for the transpasuffering his lips to remain as long as rency and indeed pellucidity of the possible in contact with the rim, which doré. had just been honoured by the touch N.B.-Many people read the works of the imperial beauty. And, indeed, of the classics merely for the words, when I look at the passage again, no the language, the poetry, the elothing can be more admirable than the quence, and so forth. This is highly strict cohesion and propriety of all the

absurd. Lessons of practical sense terms, applied either to what the and real wisdom are lurking in every Queen, or to what her guest, does. page, if one would but lock for them.

And here, for example, the Virgilian “ Hic Regina gravem gemmis auroque po. narrative of the Carthaginian banquet poscit

affords an excellent hint to many Implevitque mero pateram .

worthy persons, who, I hope, will atPrimaque, libato, summo tenus attigit tend to the thing, now that I have Tum Bitiæ dedit increpitans : ille impiger should always be given in a large, a

fairly pointed it out. Champagne hausit Spumantem paterammet pleno se proluit very large glass. Pateræ are out of

date, but ale-glasses, or at least tum

blers, are to be found in every estaObserve the politeness of her Ma, blishment; and he who gives chamjesty. She merely touched the cup pagne in a thimble, betrays the soul of with the extreme edge of her charm a tailor. ing lip; not that she would not have But let us get on : I hate the cliat of liked abundantly to take a deepershare, those beaux-esprits, who dare to cast but that she knew very well her friend out insinuations against the wines that would not get the article in its utmost bedewed the lips of the Anacreons and perfection, unless he caught the foam the Horaces. They mixed sea-water in its boiling moments—summo tenus with their wine in making it, says attigit ore—and then how does she one: They put honey in it, cries anohand it to the Trojan ?-Why incre- ther: They drank it sorely diluted, pitans to be sure; in other words, grumbles a third : It tasted of pitch saying, “ Now's your time, my lord and rosin, mutters a fourth. I despise be quick--don't bother with drinking this. When we shall have reared healths, but off with it--off with it buildings equal to the Parthenon or like a man." This is the true mean the Coliseum : when we shall have ing of the increpitans. Upon the im- written poems as sublime as the Iliad, piger we have already commented and as elegant as the Pervigilium Veand what can be better than the fine, neris: when our statuaries rival the full close-so satisfactory, so complete, Phidiases and Praxitileses : our hisso perfect--pleno se proluit auro. He torians, the Tacituses and Thucyditurned up the cup with so alert a lite deses; our philosophers, the Platos and tle finger, that some of the generous Aristotles, (Aristotle, by the way, foam ran down his beard--se proluit. wrote a History of Wines, which has As to the exact sense of pleno auro, I unfortunately perished, and I heartily really cannot speak in a decisive style. wish all his metaphysics had gone inDoes it mean the full golden cup or stead ;)—when our orators, sir, shall does it rather point to the wine itself rival the Ciceros and Demostheneses of the liquid gold ?-the rich ambere antiquity, then, and not till then, shall coloured nectar ? If this last be the we be entitled to imagine that the patruth of the case, then Dido's chama lates of those greatmen were less refined


than our own. Can any man presume and illustrating this by the remarks to dream, that Falernian was not every

that “ wine which tastes hard when bit as good as Sherry ?-Only think of new, become delightful by age, while that picture which Horace has given that which pleases in the wood never us of human beatification

proves of durable excellence.”* Could “ Seu te in remoto gramine per dies

Mr Albert Cay or Mr Samuel AnderFestos reclinatum bearis

son talk in a more knowing vein upon Interiore notâ Falerni !”

this subject than the tutor of Nero the

matricide? No-meo periculo, answer Do you not see him before you?-

no! These folks drank their chamSpread out at full length upon the

pagne when it was young, and their remote herbage, far away from the din sherry when it was old, just as we do of cities, flinging all the hum of men --they quaffed their Rozan, Sir, from and things a thousand leagues behind

the tap, and bottled their Chateau him, he devotes not the night, not the Margoux in magnum bonums. afternoon, but the day, the whole of The wines of these glorious days hathe blessed festival day, to the employ, ving, it is but too apparent, followed the ment of making himself happy-what fate of the poetry, rhetoric, sculpture, English circumbendibus can do jus- and architecture of those who consumed tice to the nervous and pregnant con them in commendable quantity, and ciseness of the word bearis ?-with a

with blameless gustothe semi-barflask of Falernian from the deepest re

barous possessors of the European soil cesses of his cellar !- Interiore notâ

were constrained to make the best of Falerni ! and beuris !-What words

it they could. They gradually, as the are these? Was this a man that did not

Scotch philosophers say, would improve possess the right use of his tongue,

in the manufacture; and, by the time lips, and larynx ? Was this a man

of Charlemagne, and our own immorupon whom you could have passed off tal Alfred, it appears not unlikely that a bottle of vin ordinaire, or mere tisch a considerable portion of really excelwein, as the genuine liquor of Beaune

lent wines existed in the Western heor Rudesheim ? No, no, you may de- misphere. The monks were the great pend upon it these people were up to

promoters of the science:_Successivethe whole concern just as much as the ly spreading themselves from Italy to very best of us. -Think but of these glorious lines of old Hermippus

the remotest regions of Europe, these

sacred swarms carried with them, Εστι δε τις οινος ον δη Σαπειαν καλεσιν

wherever they went, the relish which Ου και απο στοματος, σταμνων υσανοιγενάων,

their juvenile lips had imbibed for 'οζει ιων, όζει δε ροδων, όζει δε υακινθο something stronger than mead, and Οσμη θεσσεσιη, κατα σαν δ' εχει υψιφερες δώ, more tasty than beer. Wherever the Αμβροσια και Νεκταρ ομα.

plant would grow, it was reared be

neath their fatherly hands, and to Could any modern extol the divine

them, as Dr Henderson has most conethereal aromatic odour of Tokay, or, vincingly manifested, the primest vinewhat in my private opinion is a better yards of the Bordelais, the Lyonnais, thing, Southside's own old Lafitte, in

and the Rhinegau, owe their origin. any terms more exquisite than this

Unsanctified fingers, it is, alas ! true, hoary toper consecrates to his Saprian?

now gather the roseate clusters of the What a fine obscurity!-a mingled un

HERMITAGE, yet the name still speaks definable perfume" a heavenly odour of _stat nominis umbra-and the memory violets, and hyacinths, and roses, fills, of the Scavants of the Cloister lingers immediately on the opening of the

in like manner in Clos-Vogeot, Clos-duvessel, the whole of the lofty chamber"

Tart, Clos St Jean, Clos Morjot, and topepes dã-climbs in one moment to

all the other compounds of that intethe rafters, and confers the character of Elysium upon the atmosphere, dern mythology ought uniformly to

resting family.—The Bacchus of mo“ ambrosia and nectar both together!"

sport the cucullus, Nothing can be finer ! Or turn to Se

“ And I do think that I could drink neca, himself, the philosopher, and hear

With him that wears a hood.” bim talking about the preference that ought to be given to a youth of grave I have already hinted, that the taste disposition over one conspicuous for of our own ancestors, in regard to his gaiety and all-pleasing manners, wine, underwent many and very re

• Epist. 30.

dients from HIPPO was sti presers rection with

6 gour, a gyngen flyed h entertai

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markablemutations: but this is precise- tations would appear to have increased'; ly one of the subjects which my jolly for most of the chroniclers ascribe the nelittle Aberdonian M.D. has treated in glect of the English vineyards to that fond.

ness for French wines which then came a most felicitous manner; and, under

upon us.

But by this time the crusades correction, I apprehend that a well

had probably also introduced a taste for chosen quotation from this part of the

the sweet wines of Italy and Greece, which Doctor's ponderous tome will appear by

are occasionally mentioned by our early no means out of place in your immor

poets, and which, at a subsequent period, tal pages; while, at the same time, by were certainly well known in this country. being transferred thither, his erudite In an account rendered to the Exchequer remarks will probably reach the optics by the Chamberlain of London, in the of a vast multitude of most respectable thirtieth year of HENRY III., we find that persons, who would never dream of officer was allowed 404). in acquittance of looking into, far less of purchasing, a

404 dolia of French, Gascon, and Anjevin

wines, imported at London and Sandwich; two guinea quarto, even though its sub

-391. and half a mark, for 22 dolia of ject be Wine. With your permission,

wine of St John and the Moselle ( de vino therefore, I now desire Mr James Bala

S. Johannis et de Oblinquo) ;-301. for 20 lantyne, Mr Daniel M‘Corkindale, or

dolia of new, or perhaps sweet, French whomsoever it may more immediately wine (musti Gallici);-and 18461. 16d. concern, to set up in brevier the fol- for 900, < 19 dolia of wines of Gascony, lowing luculent observations :

Anjou, French wine, Moselle wine, and “The union which subsisted between Eng wine of St John, which were bought The land and the northern provinces of France last-mentioned may have been an Italian after the Norman conquest, but, above all, sweet wine, or else the wine of St Jean the acquisition of the Dutchy of Guienne d'Angeley, which is celebrated in the · Bain 1152, naturally led to an interchange of taille des Vins' on account of its extraor. commodities between the two countries. dinary strength. Accordingly we find, that, in two years “ In order to cover the harshness and from the last-mentioned date, the trade in acidity common to the greater part of the wines with Bourdeaux had commenced : wines of this period, and to give them an and, among our older statutes, are nume agreeable flavour, it was not unusual to rous ordinances relating to the importa. mix honey and spices with them. Thus tion of French wines, most of which, in compounded, they passed under the gene, conformity to the mistaken notions of poli. ric nanie of piments, probably because they tical economy in those times, fix the maxi. were originally prepared by the pigmenmum of price for which they were to be sold. tarii, or apothecaries ; and they were used Thus in the first year of King John, it was much in the same manner as the liqueurs enacted, that the wines of Anjou should of modern times. Our poets of the thirnot be sold for more than twenty-four shijl. teenth century,' says LE GRAND, never ings a-tun; and that the wines of Poitou speak of them but with rapture, and as an should not be higher then twenty shillings; exquisite luxury. They considered as the while the other wines of France were limited masterpiece of art, to be able to combine, to twenty-five shillings a-tun, unless they in one liquor, the strength and flavour of were so good as to induce any one to give wine, with the sweetness of honey, and the for them two merks or more. This ap- perfume of the most costly aromatics. A pears to be the earliest statute on the sub banquet at which no piment was served, ject of the foreign wine trade. With re would have been thought wanting in the gard to the wines specified, it would ap most essential article. The archives of pear, from Paulmier's account, that those the cathedral of Paris show, that, in the of Anjou, which were embarked at Nantes, thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the and probably included the produce of Deans of Chateaufort were obliged to proTouraine, were chiefly white, and distin. vide a regular supply of piment for the guished by their strength and sweetness ; canons, at the feast of Assumption. It while the growths of Poitou, otherwise was even allowed to the monks in the mocalled Rochelle wines, from the port where nasteries, on particular days of the year. they were shipped, were of the light red But it was so voluptuous a beverage, and class. In the retail trade, the latter were was deemed so unsuitable to the members directed to be sold at fourpence the gallon, of a profession which had forsworn all the -the former at sixpence. But according pleasures of life, that the Council of Aixto Harrison, this ordinance did not last la-Chapelle, held in the year 817, forbade

for the merchants could not bear it ; the use of it to the regular clergy, except and so they fell to and sold white wine for on the days of solemn festivals. eighteenpence the gallon, and red and cla. “ The varieties of piment most frequentret for sixpence.' Both Anjou and Poitou ly mentioned are the Hippocras and Clarrý. belonged at that time to England.

The former was made with either white or “ During the following reign, the impore red wine, in which different aromatic ingre.

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